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1995 993 Cold Start Issue

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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 01:00 AM
  #1  
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Default 1995 993 Cold Start Issue

Hello all,

My 1995 993 requires me to give it some gas during a cold start for it to fire up. It usually takes about 5 seconds for the car to start. Once it's up and running I have no issues when the car is warm. When I turn the ignition on, I hear the fuel pump running and have checked it with a voltmeter. Any advice on why it would be doing this?

If it helps, the engine is rock solid and runs very well besides this delayed start.

Thanks!
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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I'd check your fuel pressure regulator and check valves.

I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=24812
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 01:46 PM
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Both are cheap to change if you DIY.
Check valve is a small nipplie type threaded 3 cms tube , acting like the fuel pump outlet.
it is 50ish by itself, but if you order from bosch, the check valve comes with the pump bosch 0 580 464 058
better to get the pump
Fuel pressure regulator is under engine electric air heater/cooling system on the left of the engine

Last edited by geolab; Dec 15, 2020 at 01:56 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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I had a similar problem that ended up being a battery issue. A parasitic drain hurt the battery to where the CCA’s were below its rating. I had to replace it and I haven’t had any issues since.

Have you had your CCA’s checked?
Does the trunk light turn off when you close the hood?
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 03:54 PM
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Could this be the same type of harder starting on a 96?
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 02:16 AM
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All great tips! Thanks for the feedback! I suspected it could be the check valve or FPR. Didn't consider the battery though! I'll dive into these and get back to everyone.

Thanks again!
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 06:48 PM
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Battery is good to check.
Also electrical connectors to the multiple temp sensors. Give 'em a spray and unplug-plug a few times to wipe contacts.
Are you getting any codes? A 993-friendly ODB reader will help immensely.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SF944
All great tips! Thanks for the feedback! I suspected it could be the check valve or FPR. Didn't consider the battery though! I'll dive into these and get back to everyone.

Thanks again!
If it’s a battery issue you should find and fix any possible parasitic draws before replacing the battery or the new battery will suffer the same fate.

You may already know, but it’s common for the door, hood and/or decklid switches to fail to where your interior lights won’t turn off even when everything’s closed up and locked. It could be as simple as a metal tab being bent out of place or you might have to replace things.

The metal tab on the bottom of the hood latch (circled in the pic below) may be bent too far out of place due to how many times it’s been actuated over the last two and a half decades. I’m not an electrician or mechanic so I’m probably wrong in how it works, but I think the trunk latch is supposed to connect and/or move this little metal tab when you close the hood, breaking the circuit for the hood light until you open the hood again. When the tab is bent too far, the latch never connects with that tab thus the circuit isn’t broken and the light remains on even when the hood is fully closed.

Just bend it back into shape with a screw driver.





Last edited by notabot; Dec 16, 2020 at 07:32 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 11:40 PM
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One more thing to check if the above mentioned doesn't work is - head temp sensor. This is fairly easy to check if you have a code reader and has been associated with startup issues.
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