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Wow just came across this thread as I encountered the "I really need to rebuild my suspension this Winter" while driving home from work this morning. I think I really need to start saving is what I've gathered reading through this thread!
Keep it up and can't wait to hear what the end result is!
Pressed new bearings into the rear carriers, put the bearings in the freezer yesterday and heated up the carriers, pressed in like butter. I've got the actual wheel hubs in the freezer now and will press those in tomorrow.
Also took apart the axles, regreased and replaced the boots. Tomorrow I'm going after the steering rack.
Pressed both rear hubs into the new bearings, went very easily with the hubs frozen overnight.
The steering rack rebuild went fine. Nothing too difficult, except I botched a couple of the blue plastic washers, so I will need to wait for replacements before I can reassemble. The unit had a good bit of sludge in it.
Frosted hub on the right Disassembled steering rack. A very easy rebuild if you take your time.
Located a Degreaser that works well. Extreme Simple Green - Aircraft & Precision Cleaner - FYI.
Not as if u need another job lol
Keep up the Great Work!
TJ993
Yup, BBI billet uprights. Very nicely built. Their heim joint steering outer rods are very beefy too. I'll hopefully be pressing the hubs in and mocking them up tomorrow.
Mocked up the right rear corner. Things are going together pretty easily, just a lot of fiddly work with the various heim joint parts and boots.
Also wouldnt be right if I didn't screw something up and have to order more parts... lets see if anyone can figure out why I had to order a couple more front wheel bearings.
Whats missing from this picture... DOH I can't wait to get everything buttoned up and aligned.
Mocked up the right rear corner. Things are going together pretty easily, just a lot of fiddly work with the various heim joint parts and boots.
Also wouldnt be right if I didn't screw something up and have to order more parts... lets see if anyone can figure out why I had to order a couple more front wheel bearings.
Whats missing from this picture... DOH I can't wait to get everything buttoned up and aligned.
What keeps that Tarett sway bar mount from rotating?
What keeps that Tarett sway bar mount from rotating?
It's a split mount with a hex screw to tighten it. Once I get the sway bar in I'll tighten up the hex screw and see how well it holds. I'll probably also put some marking paint on the mount and drive around for a bit to see if it's rotating.
Lock rings are cheap and pretty fail proof,
I used a factory RSR version of the A-arm, seen above, it's an integral part of the suspension when mono-***** replace rubber. Another way to go is the Tarett version
Lock rings are cheap and pretty fail proof,
I used a factory RSR version of the A-arm, seen above, it's an integral part of the suspension when mono-***** replace rubber. Another way to go is the Tarett version
I added the MCS lock rings to my PSS10 after my sway bar mounts rotated on me.
Lock rings are cheap and pretty fail proof,
I used a factory RSR version of the A-arm, seen above, it's an integral part of the suspension when mono-***** replace rubber. Another way to go is the Tarett version
My A arm now has a monoball in the trailing position, so for now should be nearly as good as a factory rsr piece. If/When it wears out I'll probably get tarretts piece.
Put together the other rear side, so both are now mocked up. Also mocked up the front left. Things are coming together, just waiting for my pentosin to arrive so I can test the steering rack for leaks before I install the tie rods.
When the collar is tightened up on the tarret sway bar mount, it really stays put. We will see how this holds up with actual driving. Too bad none of this will be visible once the car is back on the ground.
Small update. Installed a bling carbon fiber heater tube bypass. I got it mostly for access to the top of the shocks and secondarily for cosmetic purposes.
Hit a little snag and am waiting to swap out the erp front camber plates for a set of rennline pieces. The erp plates are very nice, but you need to cut the strut tower opening to make full use of the adjustment range. I have no desire to cut metal on this car, so I'm swapping to rennline parts.
Once those come in I should be able to button everything up and start aligning it.
Freshly rebuilt steering rack with support brace and poly bushings.
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