LimeyBoy

Anyone successfully pulled this oil line fitting out of the thermostat without damaging the oil line/pipe?


I've tried PB blaster, a little heat and some wiggling & nudging - no luck. I understand the fitting is a double o-ring sealed - quite deep so likely in there nice and snug.

I'm looking for a new non-destructive method to try. I've searched but not found much beyond methods that involve crushing the tube to get purchase i.e. vice grips: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=60607

Cheers.

ekimerpud

I had a hell of a time removing that line during my build. 24 years of corrosion had it beyond stuck. I could rotate a few degrees but couldn’t get it to slide out. As you know it’s almost impossible to get good leverage due to how the hose routes through the rear suspension crossmember. I contemplated cutting it and replacing it until I found that line is no longer available new. I ended up removing the thermostat housing with the line attached. It was a pain and requires creative usage of extensions and crows foot wrenches/right angled pliers. I might have had to loosen the oil tank as well. A pain, but it is possible. After removal, I put the housing in a vice, added some heat and pulled straight out....hard. It’ll break loose. Good luck.

LimeyBoy

Thanks for the feedback ^. Sounds like I thought it would be
I came across a couple of threads where this line was available and >$550 (!) but I can't remember how old those threads were, if it is NLA I'll leave it be for now. There are a coupe of threads on making a custom version but I'm not there yet.
Cheers.

AOW162435

Is the stainless-looking flange part of the oil line?




Andreas

geolab

this is not a 993 so I don't know

pp000830

Yes, I feel your pain, the steel oil lines have always been problematic on the 911 and even worse on my '86 Carrera where there was no fender liner and the thermostat's plumbing is exposed to road grime/water/winter salt. This is why I don't attempt to remove the one leading to the engine case on my 993 during oil changes even though it is specified in the process by Porsche. It comes under the rule to not look for love in the wrong place as you will find it.
Andy

AOW162435

I’ve lost count of how many 993 oil changes I’ve done in the last 14+ years (my car and others) and I’ve never been tempted to skip that step. One bolt, a gentle pry under the flange, and the fitting comes out. Along with a significant amount of oil.



Andreas

LimeyBoy

I believe so Andreas, it should have this behind it:


Hmmm, George - you think I've got a frankenstein setup with parts from another model?
TBH, pretty much all other 993 photos I've found show a different oil tank tube/fitting/inlet. So I am wondering if this oil return pipe connection on the tank changed between 1994 and 1996-7 (?). I have a 97 built Oct 96.
I can confirm I have pipe '42' PN: 993-207-252-01 (superseded by 993-207-252-83) and the end circled in red goes into the thermostat:


Yeah Andy, I've never done that either - in this case the engine is coming out so I want it out of the way, if I can't pull it from the thermo housing without chance of damage I'll have to leave it tied up out the way.

Cheers.

s14kev

Quite simple to pop those off. I machined a clamp collar to the diameter of the pipe in my lathe which compressed around the flange portion of the pipe. Milled a slot out of the collar which compressed with a screw. This allowed me to use a small pry bar against the flange with the bolt hole. Popped off easily. I initially made it out of Delrin however found it flexed too much. Made the second out of aluminum and it grips well with no damage to the pipe. You may be able to do the same by putting a hose clamp over the flange to be able to catch the tip of a pry bar with if you are a regular plebian without a lathe and mill.

AOW162435

I had the same thought when I saw the OP’s pic. Another option is to source a split shaft collar of suitable dimension (McMaster-Carr, etc.).




Andreas

LimeyBoy

Thanks both ^ - solid suggestions. I'll report back if I have a go.
Cheers

geolab

I was (Pull)ing your leg

with bolt 44 out, clean a small area on the pipe thoroughly with acetone, Attach the biggest ziptie you can find around pipe very hard
With a spanner wrench , open it a tad larger than the pipe, and introduce the pipe in the spanner from the right of the zip tie, now tap the ziptie sliding the wrench from left to right
if ziptie slides, attach 2 or 3 zipties one sticking to each other
my best regards

samurai_k

Hi John,

When I dropped the motor, I removed the line on the motor side first. Blue circle in the picture. Once that is off, then I removed the two bolts that secure it. Blue arrows in the picture. Once those things are off, I was able to easily twist and remove the line from the oil tank.

LimeyBoy

You got me good

Thanks Samurai - before I asked on here, I spent way too much time trying to get this thing out - including what you said in terms of twisting, I thought if it starts to twist, I've got it. But twisting etc showed zero movement.
I also had two sets of vice grips (gently and wrapped) on the pipe - kind of what was mentioned above to act as a puller or leverage point (hose clamps, clamping collars, zip ties) and nothing.

I have ordered a clamp collar and will give it one last shot with that. TBH I am 6 bolts and 2 motor mounts away from dropping the engine and this one oil pipe is the only PITA thing I've come across so far, I'm thinking I've been lucky and I know this pipe can stay attached during a drop if I'm careful and watch it....

Cheers.

samurai_k

If you are going to drop the motor, then removing the line on the motor side will allow you to drop it. You can keep the line attached to the oil tank...