Notices
993 Forum 1995-1998
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

When to replace monoball in top hats and camber plates?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-30-2019, 01:51 AM
  #1  
samurai_k
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
samurai_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Norcal
Posts: 1,624
Received 183 Likes on 125 Posts
Default When to replace monoball in top hats and camber plates?

Hey guys,

So the marathon continues and I have torn down the suspension to rebush the control arms and install some PSS10s

I have mode camber plates/top hats on the RSR coil overs which I will be moving over to PSS10s.

I am trying to determine the condition of the monoballs in the camber plates/top hats. I called mode up and they said I can send them to them and they can replace the monoballs with new ones.

When do you replace them as I know they are a maintence item? There is only 10k miles on them and most of them street miles.

Pics so you know what I am talking about.

Thanks!
Attached Images   
Old 10-30-2019, 03:30 PM
  #2  
Bill Verburg
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Bill Verburg's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 12,405
Received 593 Likes on 408 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by samurai_k
Hey guys,

So the marathon continues and I have torn down the suspension to rebush the control arms and install some PSS10s

I have mode camber plates/top hats on the RSR coil overs which I will be moving over to PSS10s.

I am trying to determine the condition of the monoballs in the camber plates/top hats. I called mode up and they said I can send them to them and they can replace the monoballs with new ones.

When do you replace them as I know they are a maintence item? There is only 10k miles on them and most of them street miles.

Pics so you know what I am talking about.

Thanks!
The wear part is the Teflon belt seen in the one on the left, They'll rattle when it's gone


To get at it remove the nut on the end of the shock, I use a pass through socket and hex wrench for the shock rod itself


Then the large nut and bush, the Rose joint will now be free


mono-***** come w/ varying degrees of quality the best I've found are FKSSX16T, I get them at the local industrial bearing supply house,
Old 10-30-2019, 03:35 PM
  #3  
samurai_k
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
samurai_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Norcal
Posts: 1,624
Received 183 Likes on 125 Posts
Default

Thanks Bill. Do you know if the front and rear ones are the same bearing?

In terms of wear, what I did before pulling the shocks out was yank on the shock in different directions with the suspension at full droop. I could not feel any movement so from that point of view "tight". It was not until I removed the shocks did I notice the top hot flopping around when I would shake the shock. The monoball was unable to "hold" the top hot at in position.

Time for replacement?
Old 10-30-2019, 05:47 PM
  #4  
pp000830
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
pp000830's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 9,825
Received 1,576 Likes on 1,111 Posts
Default

If you upgrade to the original OE Rubber hats they are good-to-go for 100K miles. ;-)
Old 10-31-2019, 04:36 PM
  #5  
MB965
Rennlist Member
 
MB965's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 433
Received 63 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

With the suspension at full drop, lift up on the control arm. You will feel a small axial movement if they are worn.
When I changed mine they had 5 thousandths wear.
Front and rear bearings are the same.
The FK bearings Bill posted are the best.
Mike
Old 10-31-2019, 04:47 PM
  #6  
Bill Verburg
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Bill Verburg's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 12,405
Received 593 Likes on 408 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MB965
With the suspension at full drop, lift up on the control arm. You will feel a small axial movement if they are worn.
When I changed mine they had 5 thousandths wear.
Front and rear bearings are the same.
The FK bearings Bill posted are the best.
Mike
Hey Mike good to hear from you.
Old 10-31-2019, 04:53 PM
  #7  
samurai_k
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
samurai_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Norcal
Posts: 1,624
Received 183 Likes on 125 Posts
Default

Thanks guys!

I called mode again and they said they can R&R each plate with a FK bearing for $50. Each bearing is about $50 retail so looks like I will send them out and not deal with the headache of a diy.
The following users liked this post:
paulkromz (10-31-2019)
Old 10-31-2019, 05:20 PM
  #8  
k722070
Three Wheelin'
 
k722070's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
Received 75 Likes on 48 Posts
Default

50 bucks is a good deal to just not have to deal with anything beyond shipping, but if you have a press,
rennline sells the fk bearing in their plates for $35 each. probably the same part.
or type the fk part number stamped on the bearing into a search engine and you'll find other purchasing options.
I bought them for my rennline plates 2yrs ago for $18 each from some volvo performance shop that came up in a part # search.
Old 10-31-2019, 06:44 PM
  #9  
AOW162435
Seared
Rennlist Member
 
AOW162435's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 16,784
Received 418 Likes on 233 Posts
Default

I fiddled around with a set of 993 camber plates for a 993 buddy earlier this year and found that I could remove the monoballs without a press.



Andreas
Old 11-01-2019, 11:09 AM
  #10  
samurai_k
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
samurai_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Norcal
Posts: 1,624
Received 183 Likes on 125 Posts
Default

Thanks. I zoomed in on the rennline pic and the bearing model number is COMH16T. Spec appears to be a 2" OD bearing whereas the FKSSK16T a 1.75" OD. Too bad as those rennline bearings are much cheaper!
Old 11-01-2019, 04:03 PM
  #11  
MB965
Rennlist Member
 
MB965's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 433
Received 63 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

No press needed for the bearing. Loosening the nut can be a challenge.
Old 11-05-2019, 11:15 PM
  #12  
samurai_k
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
samurai_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Norcal
Posts: 1,624
Received 183 Likes on 125 Posts
Default

Hey guys,

Tonight I was able to remove the big @ss nut from the camber plate/top hat. I picked up a socket to remove the nut with my 1/2"breaker bar. Once the nut was removed, the monoball easily came out. Called mode again and they are sending me replacements without mailing the camber plates/top hats out...

Old 06-29-2020, 01:39 AM
  #13  
911F1
Rennlist Member
 
911F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2,054
Received 322 Likes on 196 Posts
Default

I noticed FKSSX16T has two fitment options. F1and F2. I read F1 fits tighter.
What are people ordering? Thanks
Old 06-29-2020, 01:58 AM
  #14  
MarinS4
Rennlist Member
 
MarinS4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,443
Received 170 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

In your shoes I would kick those things to the curb and go stock top hats. I am not shy about improving suspension components (solid subframe mounts, front LCA poly, solid rear toe link, RS rear bushings and RS engine mounts) but that’s one area I welcome the isolation of rubber in a street car. I just don’t feel the trade offs are worth it. Check with Rob at SCARGO and you’ll find a box full of monoball take offs from people who reverted back to stock.

Old 06-29-2020, 09:02 AM
  #15  
fatmike
Three Wheelin'
 
fatmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Marco Island, FL and sometimes New Jersey
Posts: 1,385
Received 446 Likes on 276 Posts
Default

i'll probably need to do this at some point too

/


Quick Reply: When to replace monoball in top hats and camber plates?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 03:18 PM.