Problem with allen bolt!
02-25-2004, 12:12 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Erik,
I've had a lot of luck with this kind of screw/bolt extractor:
Mac Tools Extractor Set
They seem to work better than this longer kind:
Spiral Flute Screw Extractor Set
I have both kinds.
I've never used that Sears "Bolt-Off" mentioned above, but that looks like a good first choice if you can get your hands on that kind of tool.
I've had a lot of luck with this kind of screw/bolt extractor:
Mac Tools Extractor Set
They seem to work better than this longer kind:
Spiral Flute Screw Extractor Set
I have both kinds.
I've never used that Sears "Bolt-Off" mentioned above, but that looks like a good first choice if you can get your hands on that kind of tool.
02-25-2004, 12:12 PM
#17
Here's the pics
As you can see, the bolt is in the right rear wheel house. I need to remove the cover so I can get to the sparkplug that's behind it.
The only way to get to it is from the "top" of the bolt (directly from the right side of the car) No chance from either side unless I rip out the engine.
The only way to get to it is from the "top" of the bolt (directly from the right side of the car) No chance from either side unless I rip out the engine.
02-25-2004, 12:31 PM
#18
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brazing torch....put the white tip on the bolt head only till it starts to glow....then rap the bolt head a solid blow with a drift pin.....use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....had to do this many times for the DIYers
02-25-2004, 12:37 PM
#19
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Originally posted by Mike_A
brazing torch....put the white tip on the bolt head only till it starts to glow....then rap the bolt head a solid blow with a drift pin.....use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....had to do this many times for the DIYers
brazing torch....put the white tip on the bolt head only till it starts to glow....then rap the bolt head a solid blow with a drift pin.....use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....had to do this many times for the DIYers
I second this solution.
If vise grips dont work, use a blunt chisel and hammer it counterclock wise for 1/2 turn, then any plyer will do.
Replace the bolts with stainless A2 quality (readily available in Sweden) to prevent in future.
TakeCare
02-25-2004, 12:37 PM
#20
Originally posted by Mike_A
use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....
use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....
/Erik
02-25-2004, 01:02 PM
#21
Originally posted by Mike_A
brazing torch....put the white tip on the bolt head only till it starts to glow....then rap the bolt head a solid blow with a drift pin.....use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....had to do this many times for the DIYers
brazing torch....put the white tip on the bolt head only till it starts to glow....then rap the bolt head a solid blow with a drift pin.....use vice grips on the bolt head and wiggle it till its loose.....had to do this many times for the DIYers
/E
02-25-2004, 02:26 PM
#22
Nordschleife Master
taking a look at that photo, your only option is a dremel and the put a line through it and take a large flat head screw driver in there, or an impact screwdriver,
you also may need to remove some things to give youself more room, ie remove the air line that supplies the turbo with air,
as I said in your cross post vice grips are not something I recommend as they are useless.
you way get away with JB welding a allen key in there as well
you also may need to remove some things to give youself more room, ie remove the air line that supplies the turbo with air,
as I said in your cross post vice grips are not something I recommend as they are useless.
you way get away with JB welding a allen key in there as well
02-25-2004, 03:04 PM
#23
Originally posted by Lizard931
you also may need to remove some things to give youself more room, ie remove the air line that supplies the turbo with air,
as I said in your cross post vice grips are not something I recommend as they are useless.
you way get away with JB welding a allen key in there as well
you also may need to remove some things to give youself more room, ie remove the air line that supplies the turbo with air,
as I said in your cross post vice grips are not something I recommend as they are useless.
you way get away with JB welding a allen key in there as well
02-25-2004, 03:09 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Erik,
Why not use a long shank, left hand extractor drill bit? It looks like you can get in this area with a hand drill and the extractor bit will back out the socket head cap screw as you drill into it. That way you can attack the SHCS from the top and use the torque of the drill to get it out. An industrial supply house should stock these bits. I've used these many times in tight quarters with my Makita battery operated drill. They work like magic.
Why not use a long shank, left hand extractor drill bit? It looks like you can get in this area with a hand drill and the extractor bit will back out the socket head cap screw as you drill into it. That way you can attack the SHCS from the top and use the torque of the drill to get it out. An industrial supply house should stock these bits. I've used these many times in tight quarters with my Makita battery operated drill. They work like magic.
02-25-2004, 03:10 PM
#25
Originally posted by Lizard931
taking a look at that photo, your only option is a dremel and the put a line through it and take a large flat head screw driver in there, or an impact screwdriver
taking a look at that photo, your only option is a dremel and the put a line through it and take a large flat head screw driver in there, or an impact screwdriver
/E
02-25-2004, 03:43 PM
#26
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I see from your photos that while you can get to the bolt you have very little room to manipulate your tool once you're there.
I think you have room to get a short 3/8" drive bolt extractor in there even if you have to turn it with a wrench and not a rachet. There's the kind that go inside the head and the kind that go around the outside of the head. They come in an assortment of sizes. Photos below show the two types.
I think you have room to get a short 3/8" drive bolt extractor in there even if you have to turn it with a wrench and not a rachet. There's the kind that go inside the head and the kind that go around the outside of the head. They come in an assortment of sizes. Photos below show the two types.
02-25-2004, 04:05 PM
#27
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Does anyone know, from an engineering standpoint, why Porsche used allen head bolts so extensively on our engines? Was it because they could be torqued higher, could fit flush with the surface (on some of them), etc? They sure can be a pain sometimes to get off when striped. Just interested.
02-25-2004, 04:07 PM
#28
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Just one word of caution about welding or gluing the allen key into the bolt head - make sure you have clearance to rotate the key 360 degrees after the bolt starts to move or you will get VERY frustrated very quickly!
02-25-2004, 05:54 PM
#29
Originally posted by Ron
I see from your photos that while you can get to the bolt you have very little room to manipulate your tool once you're there.
I think you have room to get a short 3/8" drive bolt extractor in there even if you have to turn it with a wrench and not a rachet. There's the kind that go inside the head and the kind that go around the outside of the head. They come in an assortment of sizes. Photos below show the two types.
I see from your photos that while you can get to the bolt you have very little room to manipulate your tool once you're there.
I think you have room to get a short 3/8" drive bolt extractor in there even if you have to turn it with a wrench and not a rachet. There's the kind that go inside the head and the kind that go around the outside of the head. They come in an assortment of sizes. Photos below show the two types.
/E
02-25-2004, 05:56 PM
#30
Originally posted by Flott Leben
Just one word of caution about welding or gluing the allen key into the bolt head - make sure you have clearance to rotate the key 360 degrees after the bolt starts to move or you will get VERY frustrated very quickly!
Just one word of caution about welding or gluing the allen key into the bolt head - make sure you have clearance to rotate the key 360 degrees after the bolt starts to move or you will get VERY frustrated very quickly!
/E