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Problem with allen bolt!

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Old 02-25-2004, 06:59 PM
  #31  
joey bagadonuts
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Do you mean ratchet?

Old 02-25-2004, 08:35 PM
  #32  
ApexL8
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Do you mean hex socket?
Old 02-25-2004, 10:41 PM
  #33  
Mike_A
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Originally posted by 993tt
The engine head are in aluminum, right!? Won't the aluminum melt if the bolt is red hot?

/E
remember your materials science?....the steel bolt has much higher specific heat and therefore will retain much more heat than the aluminum...there is a significant difference in the coefficients of expansion between the two metals as well...this is what you're looking for to help break the corrosion bond that has formed between the steel and aluminuin threads....the aluminum is also a much better conductor, which takes the heat away, and therefore (assuming you do not overheat) the aluminum is not at risk....the rap with the hammer provides the necessary shock to separate the threads.....have done this numerous times.... early aluminum turbo calipers have steelplates that must be removed for restoration.....as far as the vice grips are concerned it appears to me in that photo that there is plenty of room to get the jaws on the head.....
Old 02-25-2004, 10:50 PM
  #34  
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BTW.....and FWIW next time you get resistance while removing any bolt , it's always a good idea to take it in steps before you ruin the head....put a tool on the head and then rap it....if it won't budge,then go to heat....a lesson learned is a lesson remembered....not to be overly self -righteous, but i know how frustrating this crap can get....
Old 02-26-2004, 02:43 AM
  #35  
993tt
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Originally posted by ApexL8
Do you mean hex socket?
Yep! That's it

/E
Old 02-26-2004, 04:13 AM
  #36  
Dave H.
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Originally posted by Ron

this is what you want to use. tap it on, then use a socket and extention.
Old 02-26-2004, 12:52 PM
  #37  
993tt
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Default Found it!

I just ordered it today from Stockholm. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow so I can get this damn thing out of the way!



/Erik
Old 02-26-2004, 02:05 PM
  #38  
ApexL8
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Well this thread convinced me to stop by Sears and pick up a set of "Bolt-Outs" even though I don't need them right now. Better to buy them now instead of having to make a trip in the middle of a project.
Old 02-26-2004, 04:33 PM
  #39  
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Chuck C and 993tt

I've got a set of the Sears Bolt Outs. The ones I posted photos of earlier are Snap On and/or Blue Point and I think those have a 3/8" square drive on the back so you can use a ratchet. On the Sears ones which I have there is just a hole in the other side so a longer stud or whatever has space. In the photo I posted below you can see what I mean. If there is little space, that is so little you can not turn a wrench or need more offset for greater clearance you can attach a flare nut crows foot like I did.
Old 02-27-2004, 05:27 PM
  #40  
993tt
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Got it today!

Pling!

I'm a happy man again


Old 02-27-2004, 06:30 PM
  #41  
Derrick B.
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Hooray! Rennlist rocks. Glad you got out of your predicament. Looks like I need to add one of those to my toolkit, as I've had to go the dremel route before...
Old 02-27-2004, 07:08 PM
  #42  
993tt
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Well, I can tell you one thing, it wasn't cheap. But worth every penny! (or is it cent?)


$140 for the set!


/Erik
Old 02-27-2004, 11:37 PM
  #43  
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Originally posted by 993tt
Well, I can tell you one thing, it wasn't cheap. But worth every penny! (or is it cent?)


$140 for the set!


/Erik
Dang brother, I got 10 pieces in a case from Sears for $30:

Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out

Say what you will about Craftsman tools (I own plenty of Snap-On, and Mac, etc.) but they are about as inexpensive as you can go and still get a lifetime guarantee.



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