High Intensity Discharge...
05-03-2002, 02:06 AM
#16
Racer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Michigan and. Naples, FL
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Dan,
It is a Turbo, and thus has them by default.
note: it is 5/95 production... I will look very closely. Also, it has Eibach springs. Where are the sensors for the self leveling? If they were part of the springs then the replacement may have deleted the sensors. This would further explain why they were adjusted low.
It is a Turbo, and thus has them by default.
note: it is 5/95 production... I will look very closely. Also, it has Eibach springs. Where are the sensors for the self leveling? If they were part of the springs then the replacement may have deleted the sensors. This would further explain why they were adjusted low.
05-03-2002, 02:11 AM
#17
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DAN,
That link is to a discussion about 996 litronics. I Installed them in my 1998 Boxster in May 1999 and then had the Factory Litronics on my 2000 Mill 911.
These 993 Litronic's do not move near what those do.
That link is to a discussion about 996 litronics. I Installed them in my 1998 Boxster in May 1999 and then had the Factory Litronics on my 2000 Mill 911.
These 993 Litronic's do not move near what those do.
05-03-2002, 03:41 AM
#18
Intermediate
Hey adds 993, how did you route the cabling i.e. from the wings to the battery ? I have just received my Autolamps 4100k kit in the post and intend to fit this weekend. Looking at John W's piccies all look reasonably simple except for cabling.
many thanks,
Ian.
many thanks,
Ian.
05-03-2002, 09:19 AM
#19
Dan, as you say mate 
Right.
993 Litronics NEVER had auto levelling like the later 996 etc do.
Euro cars offered with factory fit Litronics may have had _manual_ levelling, a la a small thumb-wheel beside the ignition switch.
From what I can gather though, U.S. cars were not offered with the manual control. Correct me if I am wrong.
O.E. Retrofit Litronics do not have light levelling fitted (I have a brand new set of U.S. Litronics at home, and the definitely don't have the levelling motors in them).
UK cars were never offered with Litronics as standard. Not Even the TTs (called Turbo4's here).
Litronics were only ever offered as the Low beams (the projectors).
B-Line, take a look at the links Dan posted. If you want more info mail me direct and I'll gladly talk you through this.
The Autolamps kit provide H1 mount HID bulbs, so the only mod to the light is a 22mm hole which is drilled in the rear cover to poke the wires through.
Ask your guy if he will be fitting standard D2S HID bulbs. If he is, he will almost certainly butcher the bulb mount on your light, meaning you can never reverse the procedure should you want to revert back to the standard H1 55w bulbs.
Also ask him how he will connect your wiring, given thatthe 993 lights are removable cartridges, and so what ever he does should ideally come out with the cartridge.
Have a read of the posts, and give me a call if you want the passdword for the Autolamps discount.
Note that they have dropped their prices since this was set up, so only offer 5% to us now, but IMO they are the best option available, and very easy to fit.
Cheers,
John.
(P.S. its bank holiday here this w/e, so I might not pick up any mails until Tuesday. If I don't reply straight away, you now know why )
Right.
993 Litronics NEVER had auto levelling like the later 996 etc do.
Euro cars offered with factory fit Litronics may have had _manual_ levelling, a la a small thumb-wheel beside the ignition switch.
From what I can gather though, U.S. cars were not offered with the manual control. Correct me if I am wrong.
O.E. Retrofit Litronics do not have light levelling fitted (I have a brand new set of U.S. Litronics at home, and the definitely don't have the levelling motors in them).
UK cars were never offered with Litronics as standard. Not Even the TTs (called Turbo4's here).
Litronics were only ever offered as the Low beams (the projectors).
B-Line, take a look at the links Dan posted. If you want more info mail me direct and I'll gladly talk you through this.
The Autolamps kit provide H1 mount HID bulbs, so the only mod to the light is a 22mm hole which is drilled in the rear cover to poke the wires through.
Ask your guy if he will be fitting standard D2S HID bulbs. If he is, he will almost certainly butcher the bulb mount on your light, meaning you can never reverse the procedure should you want to revert back to the standard H1 55w bulbs.
Also ask him how he will connect your wiring, given thatthe 993 lights are removable cartridges, and so what ever he does should ideally come out with the cartridge.
Have a read of the posts, and give me a call if you want the passdword for the Autolamps discount.
Note that they have dropped their prices since this was set up, so only offer 5% to us now, but IMO they are the best option available, and very easy to fit.
Cheers,
John.
(P.S. its bank holiday here this w/e, so I might not pick up any mails until Tuesday. If I don't reply straight away, you now know why
)
05-03-2002, 09:44 AM
#20
[quote]Originally posted by Ian J:
<strong>Hey adds 993, how did you route the cabling i.e. from the wings to the battery ? I have just received my Autolamps 4100k kit in the post and intend to fit this weekend. Looking at John W's piccies all look reasonably simple except for cabling.
many thanks,
Ian.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Ian,
I'm about to mail you the instructions I have supplied everyone else.
All wiring is made to the light itself, so there is no need tofeed wires through into the trunk area to connect to the battery.
Okay, change of plan.
I'll post the details here and be done with it !
All sitting comfortably ?
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The loom autolamps supply is the same universal one for all cars.
I have spoken extensively with the main man at Autolamps,
who agrees what we are doing for the 993 should not be a problem.
They provide their loom to enable people to fit these HIDs to any car,
and if their loom is used, they can be certain of no wiring problems
coming back to them.
-=-=-=-
What you need to do is as follows:
I didn't use all of their loom, as I think it is not required.
In my research the standard loom wiring is used for 993s equipped
with Litronics, so it must be up to the job.
Obviously Porsche modify it to provide the correct connections though.
(If anyone wants I can forward the contents of the emails, and can talk through the changes the porsche retrofit kit carries out).
I make only two connections, and both are to the inside of the headlamp unit itself.
What I did was to cut off the lead that goes to the ignitor close to
the base of the relay (has the oval sealed type connector on it), to
keep as much of the length as possible.
Before you do this take a note of which is the positive feed though !!!
From what I recall the negative has two wires going to it, but please check this.
Get them the wrong way and it will destroy the ignitor :-/
Then I crimped a male bullet connector on the earth lead,
which will push inside the round earth terminal in the light.
You will see this clipped to the casting on the back of the bulb surround.
Then I crimped a male spade terminal on the positive, which mates
with the wire that was previously connected to the back of the bulb.
I covered these joints with a piece of plastic sleeving, and taped
them for good measure (on my own car I actually used heatshrink
sleeving, so if you have any it will make a neater job).
Don't forget that the holes drilled in the rear cover are not both on the same side !
I think the wiring exits towards the outside of the car.
Maybe this is shown in one of my pictures, but I can't remember.
It will become apparent when you try to refit the lights which side the wiring needs to exit, as it will foul the connector and stop you from fitting the light unit if you have them the
wrong way around.
As a result, be prepared to have to undo the connections in order to swap the rear covers around.
Maybe others who have done this recently can confirm which side they drilled...
After that all you need to do is swap over the two low beam fuses
for the higher rated ones in their loom.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Sorry it was a long one, but at least you all know how to do it now, eh
As I say, any questions and I will be glad to answer them, if I can.
Cheers,
John.
<strong>Hey adds 993, how did you route the cabling i.e. from the wings to the battery ? I have just received my Autolamps 4100k kit in the post and intend to fit this weekend. Looking at John W's piccies all look reasonably simple except for cabling.
many thanks,
Ian.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Ian,
I'm about to mail you the instructions I have supplied everyone else.
All wiring is made to the light itself, so there is no need tofeed wires through into the trunk area to connect to the battery.
Okay, change of plan.
I'll post the details here and be done with it !
All sitting comfortably ?
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The loom autolamps supply is the same universal one for all cars.
I have spoken extensively with the main man at Autolamps,
who agrees what we are doing for the 993 should not be a problem.
They provide their loom to enable people to fit these HIDs to any car,
and if their loom is used, they can be certain of no wiring problems
coming back to them.
-=-=-=-
What you need to do is as follows:
I didn't use all of their loom, as I think it is not required.
In my research the standard loom wiring is used for 993s equipped
with Litronics, so it must be up to the job.
Obviously Porsche modify it to provide the correct connections though.
(If anyone wants I can forward the contents of the emails, and can talk through the changes the porsche retrofit kit carries out).
I make only two connections, and both are to the inside of the headlamp unit itself.
What I did was to cut off the lead that goes to the ignitor close to
the base of the relay (has the oval sealed type connector on it), to
keep as much of the length as possible.
Before you do this take a note of which is the positive feed though !!!
From what I recall the negative has two wires going to it, but please check this.
Get them the wrong way and it will destroy the ignitor :-/
Then I crimped a male bullet connector on the earth lead,
which will push inside the round earth terminal in the light.
You will see this clipped to the casting on the back of the bulb surround.
Then I crimped a male spade terminal on the positive, which mates
with the wire that was previously connected to the back of the bulb.
I covered these joints with a piece of plastic sleeving, and taped
them for good measure (on my own car I actually used heatshrink
sleeving, so if you have any it will make a neater job).
Don't forget that the holes drilled in the rear cover are not both on the same side !
I think the wiring exits towards the outside of the car.
Maybe this is shown in one of my pictures, but I can't remember.
It will become apparent when you try to refit the lights which side the wiring needs to exit, as it will foul the connector and stop you from fitting the light unit if you have them the
wrong way around.
As a result, be prepared to have to undo the connections in order to swap the rear covers around.
Maybe others who have done this recently can confirm which side they drilled...
After that all you need to do is swap over the two low beam fuses
for the higher rated ones in their loom.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Sorry it was a long one, but at least you all know how to do it now, eh
As I say, any questions and I will be glad to answer them, if I can.
Cheers,
John.
05-03-2002, 02:08 PM
#22
Addict & Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Seth
I haven't searched the net, but by now I'd be surprised if some US company isn't selling H1 HID conversions a la Autolamps. Might be worth some research.
I haven't searched the net, but by now I'd be surprised if some US company isn't selling H1 HID conversions a la Autolamps. Might be worth some research.