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Clutch Pedal On Floor

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Old 07-04-2019, 03:33 PM
  #31  
NC TRACKRAT
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Thanks for the quick response, Andreas! Think a 48-inch line should do it?
Old 07-04-2019, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Thanks for the quick response, Andreas! Think a 48-inch line should do it?
That seems like it would work well. Even though your bracket will be located to the right of where I mounted mine, I’d still bring the line through the same firewall location on the driver’s side and then maybe route it underneath the Varioram manifold.



Andreas
Old 07-04-2019, 04:29 PM
  #33  
samurai_k
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How about the grounding strap near the upper left hand (driver side) corner?
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Old 07-04-2019, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Thanks for the quick response, Andreas! Think a 48-inch line should do it?
I'm in the middle of installing the bleeder. I'll let you know if the 36 is long enough to that new location. I know it's long enough to the manifold though...
Old 07-05-2019, 10:16 AM
  #35  
NC TRACKRAT
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Thanks, samurai_k. Although I like your suggestion for using the grounding lug location, I'm somewhat concerned about a location that's not mounted on the drivetrain due to the possibility of vibration. Perhaps, my concern is unfounded.
Old 07-05-2019, 10:39 AM
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samurai_k
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Thanks, samurai_k. Although I like your suggestion for using the grounding lug location, I'm somewhat concerned about a location that's not mounted on the drivetrain due to the possibility of vibration. Perhaps, my concern is unfounded.
The hydraulic tube is some sort of plastic covered with metal braid outer so "should" be minimal nvh if none at all I would guess.

Other option you could bolt it right on the blower heater? The speed bleeder bracket makes it easy to bolt/screw it on anywhere you can find a place to secure it.
Old 04-27-2020, 10:41 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by samurai_k
To bleed the clutch I would do the following.

1. Open the valve (with catch bottle)
2. Push the clutch pedal to the floor
3. Connect the bleeder and bleed the clutch until no bubbles

Once you close the bleed valve use your hand to pull the clutch pedal back up. It may not stay so start pumping the clutch pedal to the floor and back to the top with your hand. Eventually it will stay up and you are good to go!

This solution did it for me! Just needed the encouragement to keep bleeding. Thanks Samurai_k.

Installed new slave, slave hose and remote bleeder part of “"while you’'re in there"” project.

After going through a full liter of ATE, I decided to confirm the plunger was in clutch fork. Yup....installed correctly. I was pretty careful and double checked before putting engine and trans back up. Pretty easy to get a
phone up there for a pic.



So, I opened up another can of ATE and kept going, getting a few more burps of air. Voila.....I have a beautifully smooth clutch pedal. When in doubt, double check everything and “"stay calm....keep bleeding”.

Last edited by 95_993; 04-27-2020 at 11:49 PM.
Old 07-02-2020, 10:01 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RBP
Too late for that. The clutch pedal goes to the floor no matter what I do. If I don't pull it up it just stays there.

Also I thought the circuit from the reservoir to the slave was common only when the pedal is up! So with the pedal down the circuit between the master and slave is isolated, that way pushing the pedal down pressurizes the circuit making the slave extend, thus engaging the clutch. If I attach a pressure bleeder to the top of the reservoir and have the pedal down wouldn't I be just pressurizing the circuit from the reservoir to the master and not from the master to slave?
RBP, did you finally get your clutch working, and if so, what did you do?

I've flushed my brakes/clutch fluid using a Power Bleeder, being very careful to refill brake reservoir when down to half. Brakes are good - clutch pedal goes to the floor.



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