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Clutch Pedal On Floor

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Old 06-21-2019, 07:19 PM
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RBP
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Default Clutch Pedal On Floor

I changed the slave cylinder on the clutch while replacing the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. When I went to check the pedal it just collapsed and stayed on the floor. I can pull it up and it will stay up but if you try and depress the pedal it just falls to the floor. I pulled the slave and made sure there was no air, got solid fluid out of the bleeder. Was trying to get a look at the pedals as it seems there is no resistance when you push on the clutch pedal. I removed the carpet and found a wood cover over the pedal mechanicals. There is a screw under the gas pedal that needs to come out to remove the wood cover so one can look at things. Anyone know how you get the last screw out of there?

Anyone have this issue with the clutch pedal? Do I need to bleed the system better, maybe there is no fluid in the master?
Old 06-21-2019, 07:26 PM
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IainM
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Maybe the slave isn't working the clutch. The pedal has an assist spring to provide extra push and this will cause the pedal to hit the floor if pushed with no restoring force. The clutch pick=off point in the reservoir is above the brake, around the min line I think and so you have to keep it really full when bleeding or air can get it. If it's not the hydraulics, then the clutch isn't being actuated.
Old 06-21-2019, 07:32 PM
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Are you certain the slave rod is seated in the release arm cup? If not, the first time you step on the pedal, the rod will extend into space.

There is a rubber inspection cover on the bell housing for this very reason.




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Old 06-21-2019, 07:39 PM
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I expect it is seated. When I removed the slave I had to push it in so I could get the nuts on the studs. The rod on the slave is spring loaded so you can push it to compress it.
Old 06-21-2019, 07:56 PM
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IainM
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It must be air in the circuit then. Vaguely remember something about priming the master with fluid and I can't remember if I had to do the old school pump the pedal bleed process or if the Motive power bleeder worked. Maybe try both? And keep the reservoir completely full until you're done.
Old 06-21-2019, 08:01 PM
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I just checked and it looks like the slave rod/stem is not seated in the release arm cup. Will remove it and align it up with a mirror and the inspection cover view. Thanks for the info. Guess I should have done this before I put the engine and trans back in! Now I'll have to work with everything in place. I hope it won't be impossible to push the slave in to depress the rod far enough to get the nuts threaded onto the studs.
Old 06-21-2019, 08:01 PM
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Clutch pedal hitting floor is fairly common = failed slave or air in system. Nothing to be gained by removing wooden panel unless master has failed or you want to change the kinematic lever (3 changes during production). There are 2 screws at the base of the panel and it's hooked in at the top. Accelerator pedal needs to be popped off the push rod.. This is rhd. I presume lhd is the same. Good idea to fit a MPL slave, new flexy and remote bleed.
Old 06-21-2019, 08:11 PM
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I just installed a new OEM slave. Thought I'd do it while I had the engine and trans out. Now I'll work on getting it lined up so the stem is seated in the cup. Maybe that will do it. I'm just not sure if that was the issue from the start or if I just didn't get it lined up right when I removed the slave to try and get all the air out. Will see what happens next. Thanks all, great info.
Old 06-21-2019, 08:42 PM
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I recently replaced both the master and slave cylinder on my car. If you look at my build blog below I have pictures in the simple hack using a brass tube to easily install the slave cylinder while the transmission is installed in the car, and then bleed the clutch circuit. I don't take credit for it was actually another rennlister who showed me how to do it.
Old 06-21-2019, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RBP
I just checked and it looks like the slave rod/stem is not seated in the release arm cup. Will remove it and align it up with a mirror and the inspection cover view. Thanks for the info.

Glad my $.02 helped.

I just installed a slave on a friend's 993 the other day - there's nothing fun about it. Ever.

Here's my solution to dealing with the less-than-pleasurable clutch slave bleeding: Remote Clutch Slave Bleeder




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Old 06-22-2019, 09:39 AM
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NC TRACKRAT
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Since it's basically a blind, do-it-by-feel operation, bleeding the slave the conventional way is bad enough. Andreas (or anyone else), do you have a suggestion for installing the assembly into the slave cylinder without creating an unholy mess?
Old 06-22-2019, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Since it's basically a blind, do-it-by-feel operation, bleeding the slave the conventional way is bad enough. Andreas (or anyone else), do you have a suggestion for installing the assembly into the slave cylinder without creating an unholy mess?
If you clamp the clutch supply hose below the brake fluid reservoir, not a drop escapes when removing the bleed nipple, etc.




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Old 06-22-2019, 10:50 AM
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Sweet! Would you suggest using blue LOCTITE on all fittings except the final bleed screw? Or is it not necessary?
Old 06-22-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by AOW162435
If you clamp the clutch supply hose below the brake fluid reservoir, not a drop escapes when removing the bleed nipple, etc.




Andreas
Brilliant! I am ready to make the mid as well, but hesitated on the last flush because of the pending mess. This makes it much more doable.
Old 06-22-2019, 11:45 AM
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And don't forget to grease the receiving cup on the release fork with Olista Longtime 3EP. Or you'll end up with an annoying squeak later on down the road.


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