nine9six

This is it^ ...ask me how I know. ; )

NC TRACKRAT

Endoman did a variation of the "Andreas Mod" to a RHD Varioram but it would seem a challenge to find a mounting location/method for a LHD Varioram. Anyone done it? If so, a pic would be appreciated.

Endoman

The car has a rear blower delete with the RS bypass so bags of room and a convenient boss for the bracket, so a little tricky with the blower in there. Did a similar mod to my 944 as the clutch bleed is just as hard to get at.

RBP

Well, reinstalled the slave and made sure the rod was seated in the retaining cup. Still have no clutch pedal. Pedal will stay up but once you push on it just a bit it is pulled to the floor by a spring or other means. I had the slave off because I was told that air can be caught I the top so you need to point the bleed valve up, so that's what I did. When I opened the bleed valve with the slave pointed up I got solid fluid no air bubbles. I'm wondering if there is air in the master cylinder somehow. Anyone know how to check and make sure the master is primed and purged of all air?

Also I'm bleeding this by myself, I just open the bleed screw and fluid flows. I was told that this is ok so long as you keep the reservoir full. Is this an acceptable procedure to bleed the system or should I be doing it a different way?

samurai_k

To bleed the clutch I would do the following.

1. Open the valve (with catch bottle)
2. Push the clutch pedal to the floor
3. Connect the bleeder and bleed the clutch until no bubbles

Once you close the bleed valve use your hand to pull the clutch pedal back up. It may not stay so start pumping the clutch pedal to the floor and back to the top with your hand. Eventually it will stay up and you are good to go!

Endoman

Best way is a pressure bleed, Don't forget to clamp off the overflow pipe on the reservoir if it's an early type. Later ones had the vent in the cap. Set air pressure to 15psi. Only crack open the bleed nipple a little and fit a tube over the nipple to a catch tank (mason jar will do) A gravity bleed will simply not get air out of the master cylinder. give the pedal a few short strokes by hand to shift any air bubbles and repeat. Do not operate full stroke until all air has gone. A suction bleed may work but it's a bit more tedious having to keep checking the fluid level single handed.
I use a Gunson Eezibleed
http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4062
Must be similar ones in USA.

samurai_k

I had a heater fan bypass so I mounted the bleed valve where one of the m6 bolts would attach to the intake tubes

RBP

Ok, just to be sure I understand. I connect a hose to the bleed valve on the slave, hose runs to a bottle or reservoir of sorts, I then open the bleed valve. Next, push clutch pedal to floor (easy part) and have it stay there while I connect a pressure bleeder of some type. Clutch pedal remains on floor for the process until flow from slave has no air bubbles. Then I close the bleed valve and disconnect the power bleeder. After that I pull the clutch pedal back up?

bobboinski

I had the same problem problem bleeding my clutch. I had to keep filling the reservoir and cycling the pedal until I bled the master cylinder. Then used pressure bleeder to finish. For some reason pressure bleeder doesn't bleed the master. Your above mentioned procedure may work, I never tried.

samurai_k

Yes.

Recently, I flushed a clutch on another 993 and made the mistake of not having enough fluid in my power bleeder and pushed a bunch of air into the clutch circuit. Doh!

Did the steps I described above and it easily removed all of the air I accidentally introduced into the circuit. I had to do it twice to get all of the air out of the circuit.

What I learned this time around was:

1. Make sure to fill the fluid reservoir all the way to the top below where you screw in the cap

2. Have plenty of fluid in your power bleeder

Endoman

Don't push the clutch pedal to the floor! The piston in the master will travel beyong it's normal operating range and may damage the rubber seal.
http://p-car.com/diy/slave/index.html

RBP

Too late for that. The clutch pedal goes to the floor no matter what I do. If I don't pull it up it just stays there.

Also I thought the circuit from the reservoir to the slave was common only when the pedal is up! So with the pedal down the circuit between the master and slave is isolated, that way pushing the pedal down pressurizes the circuit making the slave extend, thus engaging the clutch. If I attach a pressure bleeder to the top of the reservoir and have the pedal down wouldn't I be just pressurizing the circuit from the reservoir to the master and not from the master to slave?

Diablo Dude

Had the transmission replaced last month on my GT4 via the recall bulletin.

The first 3 times I started up my car in my garage from a cold engine, my clutch pedal went straight to the floor, was super soft, and on two occasions I had to pull the pedal back up with my hand.This only seemed to happen when the engine was cold. After several drives, the clutch pedal resistance firmed back up to "normal" (during a cold start) without me doing a damn thing.
I must have still had some air in the system after the transmission was replaced.

NC TRACKRAT

Have been looking for a decent spot to mount a bracket for the "remote clutch slave bleeder" on our C2S and, with the heater blower, etc. still in place, it presents a challenge. I've been thinking about mounting a right angle bracket using the rear bolt that holds the A/C compressor bracket and it's support rod. It's still higher than the slave cylinder, easily accessed and should be able to route the line down to the slave cylinder without incurring any obstructions. Anyone foresee a problem with using that location?

AOW162435

That location should be fine. You’ll need a longer hose than the 36” version I use (from Pegasus Racing).




Andreas