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So I'm taking the passenger side muffler bracket off so I can remove the engine tin.
I couldn't get a box end on it, so used the open side. That thing is on TIGHT. I thought it was actually turning a bit, but on inspection, it was stripping.
So I found another 13mm wrench that was a bit thinner on the box end. Made sure it was on good and pried a screwdriver against it, but it wouldn't budge.
So used a larger wrench on the 13 as leverage, and it felt like it was moving. Checked and it was still stripping.
Guess I'm going to have to remove the heat exchanges, but still it will be a tight fit getting any wrench up there.
Have you used any penetrating fluid yet? That bolt has seen a lot of heat cycles which always leads to a hard removal process. Get some sort of penetrating fluid and let it soak in there for a few hours. If you have a butane or propane torch, heat is also your friend.
I’ve been there and feel your pain. This is the method I used, and it worked. First remove the Allen head bolt that attaches the bracket to engine tin. Now insert the 13mm open ended wrench on the frozen bolt, move the whole bracket/wrench up and down together albeit 1/2” of movement. Doing this repeatedly I managed to break the bolt free a few mm at a time. Hope this helps.
You say it's stripping, but do really mean that the threads of the bolt or the threads where it goes into the engine are failing? It looks more like the head of the bolt is getting rounded off. If the bolt head is getting rounded off, then you may need to use only a six-point box end wrench, one that fits very snugly, to avoid further rounding. A twelve-point or worse yet an open-end wrench can cause further damage.
That is a troublesome bolt--I ground down the head of a box-end wrench specifically for that one bolt. The corresponding part of the muffler bracket is U-shaped, so you only need to loosen this bolt slightly to withdraw the bracket.
That is a troublesome bolt--I ground down the head of a box-end wrench specifically for that one bolt. The corresponding part of the muffler bracket is U-shaped, so you only need to loosen this bolt slightly to withdraw the bracket.
I have grinder-modified box end wrench for this bolt as well.
The really nasty acidified penetrating oil PB "Blaster" sprayed on and allowed to sit overnight will do the trick if you can stand the smell.
It can be purchased at an auto parts store or you know, that place that shouldn't be named in the same sentence as Porsche, wait... wait... it's coming, just a little longer... The Home Depot! There I said it, its out now have to deal with that.
Been there. Done that. Based on some recommendations here, I dropped the heat exchanger and got some vise grips on it after rounding off the bolt head.
I’ve been there and feel your pain. This is the method I used, and it worked. First remove the Allen head bolt that attaches the bracket to engine tin. Now insert the 13mm open ended wrench on the frozen bolt, move the whole bracket/wrench up and down together albeit 1/2” of movement. Doing this repeatedly I managed to break the bolt free a few mm at a time. Hope this helps.
Mind looked like that too. I ended up having to cut the head off with a dremel and then use needle nose vise grips to remove the remaining nubbin out.
I thought about that as well, but due to the lack of clearance I can tell that will be a major PIA. Saving that as a last resort unless you want to come on over and show me your technique
It's been soaking over night (used WD-40 brand penetrating oil simply because I had some and it doesn't stink like PB Blaster). I'll hit it with some PB and then head to the store for an extra 13mm six-point box end wrench to grind down. (Wonder if Home Depot sells those?)
Got the driver side tin off without too much hassle. Lucky that fore most 10mm bolt was already about 1/3 out, so removal wasn't that difficult.
The upper valve cover on that side show no sign of leak or seepage. Thinking of just leaving it alone and not replacing those gaskets.
I thought about that as well, but due to the lack of clearance I can tell that will be a major PIA. Saving that as a last resort unless you want to come on over and show me your technique
It's been soaking over night (used WD-40 brand penetrating oil simply because I had some and it doesn't stink like PB Blaster). I'll hit it with some PB and then head to the store for an extra 13mm six-point box end wrench to grind down. (Wonder if Home Depot sells those?)
Got the driver side tin off without too much hassle. Lucky that fore most 10mm bolt was already about 1/3 out, so removal wasn't that difficult.
The upper valve cover on that side show no sign of leak or seepage. Thinking of just leaving it alone and not replacing those gaskets.
Wishing you luck. Hate to say it, but PB Blaster is WAY better than WD-40. Not sure WD-40 will do anything. Overnight soak in Pb Blaster is a must. Heat it up, and then chill it quickly. Often is enough to break the corrosion.
One option (if completely rounded) is to drill a hole through the head perpendicular to the axis of bolt, put in a hardened steel dowel extending out sides, giving something to grip with vise grips.
04-11-2019, 10:22 PM
Nut stripping, suggestions?? Please!
