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Old 12-14-2018, 08:55 PM
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ClassicAndy
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Default Vibrations noise from gearstick

Anyone experienced vibration noises from the gearstick while driving?

The car used to not make those noises, but after this summer I have noticed an increase in vibration from the gearstick. It only gets worse as the speeds increases, but is not noticable around 60mph or less. 100mph + the sound takes over all other sounds in the coupe. If I hold firmly onto the stick, the vibration and noises stop and there is only "normal" noise in the coupe.
There is no issues with changeing gears from 1-6 and reverse, and there is no scraping sounds or hesitation on the syncros.
Nothing done to the gearstick itself either, other than shifting gears.

I have not opened up anyhing yet to look, but I suspect a bent rod of somekind which is affected by the engine rpm.

So is there anyone that experienced similar issue or have any pointers into the right direction?

Cheers




Old 12-14-2018, 09:14 PM
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nine9six
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Andy,
There is a ball joint below the shifter that locks into a nylon cup in the forward shift rod connection. Chances are this nylon/plastic cup has deterioted, and needs replacement.

There's a shift rod access panel underneath the car that needs to come off, and here is what things looks like.

Check the simple stuff first.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-bushings.html

Last edited by nine9six; 12-15-2018 at 03:32 PM.
Old 12-14-2018, 09:54 PM
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crw
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I had a flywheel imbalance from a broken pressure plate spring in the clutch that caused that.

One the issue was addressed, the problem disappeared.

Hopefully your problem is the cup.
Old 12-15-2018, 08:41 AM
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pp000830
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Worn plastic components in the shift linkage can rattle and make noise.
Old 12-15-2018, 08:49 AM
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pp000830
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Originally Posted by crw
I had a flywheel imbalance from a broken pressure plate spring in the clutch that caused that.

One the issue was addressed, the problem disappeared.

Hopefully your problem is the cup.
Hi CRW,
Interesting comment above, it seems driving habits might influence a failed pressure plate.
Do you track your car?
Was the symptom subtle or very profound?
At approximatly what miles did this issue crop up? Also
when the clutch was serviced were shift linkage components serviced as well?
Thank for any insights you can provide,
Andy
Old 12-15-2018, 11:49 AM
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ppressle
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I had this and it was hard to find. In my case I had a bent wheel which caused the shifter to vibrate at speed even when the wheels were balanced. If you have access to a second set of wheels, install those and test.
Is the vibration is speed related or engine rpm related? Your description implies speed related which is usually wheels/tires.
Pete
Old 12-15-2018, 01:13 PM
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crw
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The pressure plate did not fail, it simply developed an imbalance.

My car was never tracked - It's been pampered it's whole life.

One of the clutch pressure plate springs broke as I was driving normally.

The car had about 26K on it. I heard a rattle out of the engine bay and was actually right near the shop I used.

The tech (with about 30 years experience) guessed correctly right away.

The rattle then went away - he conjectured that the spring was ejected via the clutch vent tube.

The symptom was profound at 1st, after that just a vibration as RPMs increased.

They recommended keeping the car below 4000 RPM until fixxed.

The findings:

- 1 missing pressure plate spring
- a small piece of the edge of the pressure plate was damaged
- minimal clutch disc wear

The likage was updated when I 1st got the car - Goldenrod/SSK etc. so that was not an issue.
Old 12-15-2018, 03:02 PM
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swmic

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I would also check motor and trans mounts.
Old 12-15-2018, 07:11 PM
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pp000830
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Originally Posted by crw
The pressure plate did not fail, it simply developed an imbalance.

My car was never tracked - It's been pampered it's whole life.

One of the clutch pressure plate springs broke as I was driving normally.

The car had about 26K on it. I heard a rattle out of the engine bay and was actually right near the shop I used.

The tech (with about 30 years experience) guessed correctly right away.

The rattle then went away - he conjectured that the spring was ejected via the clutch vent tube.

The symptom was profound at 1st, after that just a vibration as RPMs increased.

They recommended keeping the car below 4000 RPM until fixxed.

The findings:

- 1 missing pressure plate spring
- a small piece of the edge of the pressure plate was damaged
- minimal clutch disc wear

The likage was updated when I 1st got the car - Goldenrod/SSK etc. so that was not an issue.
Wow, Thanks for the detailed reply, I had never heard of such a situation before.
Andy
Old 12-16-2018, 04:05 PM
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ClassicAndy
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Originally Posted by nine9six
Andy,
There is a ball joint below the shifter that locks into a nylon cup in the forward shift rod connection. Chances are this nylon/plastic cup has deterioted, and needs replacement.

There's a shift rod access panel underneath the car that needs to come off, and here is what things looks like.

Check the simple stuff first.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-bushings.html
Great stuff. I have tried starting the other (hard) way around too many times before.
The cars has 118.000 miles on the odometer and I cant not find anything about a replacement cup in the cars documents.
I got the car up on jackstands today and will check the cup tomorrow. Its probably way over due for a replacement anyway.
Thanks for the tip!

Originally Posted by pp000830
Worn plastic components in the shift linkage can rattle and make noise.
Several people confirming it, so it will be check on tomorrow. Cheers

Originally Posted by ppressle
I had this and it was hard to find. In my case I had a bent wheel which caused the shifter to vibrate at speed even when the wheels were balanced. If you have access to a second set of wheels, install those and test.
Is the vibration is speed related or engine rpm related? Your description implies speed related which is usually wheels/tires.
Pete
The vibration is speed related only. I have tried chaninging both set of wheels (hollow spokes and tramonts in 18``). Both is in new condtiton and newly balanced with new tires. There is no change in the vibration and its sound by changeing the wheels. I had five changes this late summerjust to verify it.
It could be that both wheelsets are off, but I highly doubt that.

Originally Posted by crw
The pressure plate did not fail, it simply developed an imbalance.

My car was never tracked - It's been pampered it's whole life.

One of the clutch pressure plate springs broke as I was driving normally.

The car had about 26K on it. I heard a rattle out of the engine bay and was actually right near the shop I used.

The tech (with about 30 years experience) guessed correctly right away.

The rattle then went away - he conjectured that the spring was ejected via the clutch vent tube.

The symptom was profound at 1st, after that just a vibration as RPMs increased.

They recommended keeping the car below 4000 RPM until fixxed.

The findings:

- 1 missing pressure plate spring
- a small piece of the edge of the pressure plate was damaged
- minimal clutch disc wear

The likage was updated when I 1st got the car - Goldenrod/SSK etc. so that was not an issue.
I also have a rattle from the engine bay area (might be gearbox area, not confirmed yet) which is noticable at uneven times. I have not given it a thought that it might be related with the vibration. The rattle (and its barly noticable) occurs or is hearable when going from stationary to in motion after the car is in gear and clutch have been released.
Your description of the problem fits my situation too well, but I`ll know more tomorrow after a inspection.
Did you have to drop both the engine / gearbox when replacing the pressure plate?
Old 12-16-2018, 04:53 PM
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crw
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The owner of the shop was a Porsche - trained master tech with 30+ years 911 experience.

He guessed correctly, so he had seen this before.

The cause, who knows - bad spring, incorrectly installed.

The read an article recently about a guy who had his newer Ferrari cars motor fail at 10,000 miles - 2 months out of warranty.

The cause was determined to be an item that was installed backwards.

There are so many parts on cars - it's a wonder more doesn't happen.

That's why it's so amazing that commercial airline flights don't crash more than they do.
Old 12-17-2018, 03:07 PM
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ClassicAndy
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Confirmed today that it is not the cup.
The cup is firm when pulling on it back and forth, and sits well around the rod. No slack what so ever. Looks complete
While at it I checked the motor and gearbox -mounts aswell, and they are firm and fairly new.

I will do some phonecalls to confirm alternatives tomorrow, but I must admit that it smells like a pressureplate change is coming up.
Old 12-17-2018, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ClassicAndy
Did you have to drop both the engine / gearbox when replacing the pressure plate?
No need to drop the engine to gain full access to the gearbox, clutch or flywheel on a 993.
ANdy
Old 12-17-2018, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pp000830
No need to drop the engine to gain full access to the gearbox, clutch or flywheel on a 993.
ANdy
No, but for sanity purposes is recommended, especially if this is your first time and you want to take care of, while you're in there stuff.
IE., hyd lifters, plugs, wires, inaccessible rubber hoses and other such wear items that should be replaced at your given mileage.
Old 12-17-2018, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pp000830
No need to drop the engine to gain full access to the gearbox, clutch or flywheel on a 993.
ANdy
Thanks for the verification Andy.
I went on a serch here and ended up with Nsullys` DIY thread on dropping the gearbox: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...and-lwf-3.html - lots of great info in that thread and it is inspirational for me to go on the job for dropping my own gearbox.
I would rather not drop the engine if not necessary (as im on a limited time and money budget) 😂


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