jrmdir

Hi all:

Has anyone used or is using something similar to this? I've used them for other - less complex electrically - cars but would like to hear of any issues with our battery-sensitive cars. This is possibly an answer for my sister's '96 Cab -she lives in a high-rise with the car in an underground lot. Storing it for the winter but she may need to move it from time to time and is not comfortable with connecting and disconnecting the cables each time. Nor can she use a battery tender like I do on mine as she doesn't want to leave the frunk unlatched. Thanks in advance for any advice/input.

NC TRACKRAT

Other than losing all the ECU, radio settings and her alarm system, there's no problem with using one...except you should NEVER disconnect while the vehicle is running. I would rather see her use a good charger like CTEK and just run the lead out from the frunk hood. No damage will occur to the lead or the weatherstrip. An alternative would be to drop the lead out through the drain hole nearest the battery.

The Eagle

I have my charger plugged in the cigarette lighter (I run it by the passenger window, you only need to open it for about 5mm).


~ The Eagle ~
_________________
'96 Polar Silver/Black C4S, manual, litronics, LED's in the positioning lights, alu/leather shifter & handbrake,
silver face gauges with alu rings, hardback sport seats, leather interior, motor sound airbox, stainless door sills,
valve caps Porsche crested brushed alloy, front protection bar, with split rear grill and layered with Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax
_________________
'92 Carrera 2 (Sold)
'89 Carrera 3.2 (Sold)

jrmdir

Thanks to you both for the good input. I should have given more info - it's not just the concern about leaving the trunk open (sounds like that's not necessary as you point out) it's that the nearest outlet in the shared garage is pretty far away and running an extension cord across other's reserved spots isn't something she wants to do. Ditto for having the tender sitting on the ground in front of the car making it obvious that it's in storage mode. It's a condo owner's association thing I think. I'll take a look at using one of these cut-off units. Though I'm not sure if it will fit as it needs to redirect the cable clamp from horizontal to vertical. May just be simpler for me to continue to be her mobile mechanic when needed

Cheers,

Ron

ToreB

I have this exact switch in my 993 and veteran VW, works perfectly. The battery GND strap is a bit short for use with this switch, but it works fine.
Be sure to not tighten it too hard when closing the switch, the metal can break off at the casting edge to the battery clamp. However, if you not close the switch sufficiently, you will run into problems at high currents when trying to start the car

By the way, I never charge the battery while connected to the car, I have seen far too many overvoltage damages on various instruments and control units in these cars.
Cheers,
Tore

Railmaster.

I'm in more or less the same situation! I leave my battery connected in the car during the winter and charge in for like 24h once every 5-6 weeks with a pretty long cable over the neighbours parking lot!

gw911nine97

I use the exact switch, no problems.

Eurotrio

Twilightblue28A

Hi Ron,
I get it. The car cannot be charged because of the condominium association. A trickle can't be used because of the condo associations regulations. I have the same issue in my condominium. I haven't used the device depicted in your photograph yet. I have been told when you start your car, you will have to input your radio code, at least on a '95. I too am interested in anyone who uses what you described in your photograph.
As a seperate but related issue, I have in other garages used a maintenance charger the entire winter without damaging the electrical system. The maintenence charger shuts -off when the battery voltage reaches a pre determined level

nile13

I leave my car wish disconnected battery for 6 months in the winter, It starts fine after battery is connected again. I also disconnect my autocross car's small motorcycle battery between races.

I would not use this particular disconnect type, though. Heard enough bad experiences. If it's a one-time disconnect for the winter, I simply undo the negative cable. For the autocross appliance that gets exercised 20+ times a year, I use a wing nut on the negative cable for easier disconnect.

pp000830

To avoid oil leaks and other problems you will want to start your car at least every two weeks or so. This will give you the opportunity to charge the battery.

kreeshp

This is probably best suited to a whole different thread about winter storage protocol but my understanding of generally accepted best practices for winter storage is that it's better (less wear and tear and other damage to moving parts) to NOT start a winter stored car periodically unless you are actually driving it. One of the risks of frequent starts is increased condensation in the engine oil and corrosion of engine components due to the moisture.

Personally, I've stored several cars (including a 964 and a 993) for periods of 6 months to 2 years and don't start them while they're in hibernation and have never had leaks or other problems.

Endoman

Those battery isolators are not very good, mine snapped when I put something heavy in the frunk. You can run a fused wire to bypass the battery cut out as as anti theft device which will blow if the starter is used thereby preserving radio codes etc. I have the RS battery isolator fitted which is much more reliable. never kill the engine using an earth isolator you can fry the altenator. She's laid up for the winter and I'm dropping the engine so power is off and the battery on trickle charger. I'll just have to follow the ecu reprogramme routine in spring as a new LWF Steve **** chip is also going in.

jrmdir

Thanks to all for the good input and photos. I'm going to get a couple of them and put one on my car as well.

Cheers,

Ron

Foxman