Question about timing cams in the car
09-16-2018, 08:57 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Question about timing cams in the car
Last year I replaced my timing chain cover gaskets and got rid of 90+% of my leaks. But I still have a little drip forming at the base of the chain case to engine case seal.
In reading through all the steps, it looks like I just need to remove the cam gears to get the chain cases out to replace those seals (and need a special tool to hold the gears while I loosen the nut).
Looks like I can mark the pins and keep the current timing, right? Or, if needed, I can retime the cams in the car, but only as a last resort.
I’m considering this as a winter project, and want to get feedback from whoever may have gone through this.
I’d prefer not to pull the engine and go through redoing the rear alignment.
Thanks in advance.
Chris.
In reading through all the steps, it looks like I just need to remove the cam gears to get the chain cases out to replace those seals (and need a special tool to hold the gears while I loosen the nut).
Looks like I can mark the pins and keep the current timing, right? Or, if needed, I can retime the cams in the car, but only as a last resort.
I’m considering this as a winter project, and want to get feedback from whoever may have gone through this.
I’d prefer not to pull the engine and go through redoing the rear alignment.
Thanks in advance.
Chris.
Last edited by Chris L; 09-16-2018 at 11:30 AM.
09-16-2018, 04:50 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Chris,
This would be really hard to do with the motor in the car. The tools go in the recessed "D" in the back side of the cams, plus there is a tool that holds the crank at TDC. It fits over the front of the crank, so you would have to remove the front balancer. You also need a tool to hold the cam gear when you torque the cam bolt. Without the tools would have to mark the cam gear location and make sure the cam does not turn. You'd also have to deal with the chain tensioners and how they may rotate things.
Hopefully, someone else has done this and knows some tricks you can try. I set the timing with the factory tools when I rebuilt my motor. Fairly easy on an engine stand.
This would be really hard to do with the motor in the car. The tools go in the recessed "D" in the back side of the cams, plus there is a tool that holds the crank at TDC. It fits over the front of the crank, so you would have to remove the front balancer. You also need a tool to hold the cam gear when you torque the cam bolt. Without the tools would have to mark the cam gear location and make sure the cam does not turn. You'd also have to deal with the chain tensioners and how they may rotate things.
Hopefully, someone else has done this and knows some tricks you can try. I set the timing with the factory tools when I rebuilt my motor. Fairly easy on an engine stand.
09-20-2018, 03:31 PM
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
09-20-2018, 05:00 PM
#4
+1
Removing chain boxes with the engine in the car or out is a pretty big, complicated job. I can't imagine going through the hassle over a weeping seal or occasional drip. This is a while-you're-in-there job when you have to do the clutch or valve guides.
Removing chain boxes with the engine in the car or out is a pretty big, complicated job. I can't imagine going through the hassle over a weeping seal or occasional drip. This is a while-you're-in-there job when you have to do the clutch or valve guides.
09-20-2018, 08:28 PM
#5
I couldnt imagine doing that w/o removing the engine, even with a lift. Dont know about the re-alignment as mine is a 964.
You will need that tool that holds the gears while allowing access to the nut that holds them. Torque is fairly high so you will need a hefty torque wrench too. Access with those big wrenches in that small obstructed space will not be easy. Maybe someone who has done it will chime in.
If you have other leaks and are interested in a re-seal and other "while its out" stuff, I would drop the motor/tranny (you know you want to). Then everything is easily accessible.
Lots of very detailed threads on whats required.
You will need that tool that holds the gears while allowing access to the nut that holds them. Torque is fairly high so you will need a hefty torque wrench too. Access with those big wrenches in that small obstructed space will not be easy. Maybe someone who has done it will chime in.
If you have other leaks and are interested in a re-seal and other "while its out" stuff, I would drop the motor/tranny (you know you want to). Then everything is easily accessible.
Lots of very detailed threads on whats required.
