My car just turned 20 (1997 C4S)

In has 30,000 miles on it, I have put on about 5,000 miles on it in the last 5 years.

I have a rattle that is likely secondary to a flywheel problem.

So, since the engine is going to be dropped, I am wondering about some things that should be addressed:

Other than routine oil changes and brake flushes yearly, this is what has been done in the last several years:

5 hears ago - spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, V belt, ignition distributors and rotors, pulley upgrade, fan belt, fan belt tensioner, front and rear gear oil

4 years ago - suspension (shocks/struts/springs ROW)

When I bring it in to have the drive train vibration sorted out, these are my thoughts

- new clutch and flywheel if needed
- clutch salve needs replacing (it is squeaking)
- front and rear bushings ( OEM vs. Walrod fro just street driving?) - the bushings are original to the car
- new engine mounts?
- FD motorsports tranmission mount - is it worth it?
- SAI flush ( I have never had a cell) - preventative
- timing chain gaskets - I have a minimal sweat, should I just leave it

The shop I go to is trustworthy and I have used them for many years - no up-selling or shenanigans

I am looking for input for other additional items I may want to consider

 

If you're going to do the clutch slave, you might as well do the clutch master too. The boot on mine was cracked and it wasn't smooth to operate anymore.

 

Good point - the boot on mine is cracked also.

 

Those are all good ... I am doing the FD Transmission mount for my C4S in the Spring.. I had the RS Golden Rod put in last year and also doing the Short Shifter to compliment the RS Golden Rod. Shift throws are like rowing a boat! I did the RS Motor Mounts.. WORTH EVERY PENNY!

 

 

Inspect the ignition wires -- they can crack from age (especially the lowers) and are vastly easier to replace with the engine out.

Would also consider replacing the rear main seal.

 

With regard to the RS engine mounts - what is the advantage over OEM?

Is there a noise and vibration trade off?

 

powersteering belt

 

All oil seals. Even I one isn't leaking now they are all 20 years old.
Plug wires?
Consider lwfw or the medium weight one.

 

I feel like I get stuck being the contrarian on discussion threads like this as, I feel there is sometimes a confusion between need & want in replacing parts or doing service work by Rennlist members..
At 30k miles my friend you should need very little.
Age related failures have to do with plastic parts such as the seals on the steering rack, electric switches and other drying out.
If things such as the ignition wires look clean and running the OBDC show no misfire codes or odd running data and your idle is smooth I would leave well enough alone.
Cleaning the air injector system may be a good idea as it is easy to do but once clogged it can be much more invasive to clean.
Sorting out a vibration may have to to with a mount of some sort so I would have only the errant part replaced.

A very good Porsche mechanic said sometimes less is more on an older Porsche when it come to disturbing things
Having owned a 86' and now a 96' both with high miles this has worked well for me.

Attached is my list of service items some I have encountered some by others you may find useful. As others will tell you it is full of opnion on service items:
Andy
See my comments on your list below.
Andy

-new clutch and flywheel if needed
Nope, for a street driven car it should last as least twice as long as the miles on your car.
- clutch salve needs replacing (it is squeaking)
The Slave is hydraulic, doesn't squeak, a little grease on the thing it is actuating or the peddle cluster maybe solves the problem. If the rubber boot is torn at the peddle cluster I would just come up with some sort of wrap to close it up as by design it really doesn't seal up tight anyway.
- front and rear bushings ( OEM vs. Walrod fro just street driving?) - the bushings are original to the car
Have them inspected, doubtful you need these, some like to replace them anyway for a perception of handleing improvement. Applying rubber lubricant to all the rubber cotact points on the suspension is probably a good idea as mounts such as the torsion bar hold downs can probably benefit from this.
- new engine mounts?
Is your shifting getting odd or your exhaust tips not in the correct position, do you see leaking?? Likley uneeded
- FD motorsports tranmission mount - is it worth it?
Some like this and call it an upgrade others not so much,
- SAI flush ( I have never had a cell) - preventative
This is a good idea
- timing chain gaskets - I have a minimal sweat, should I just leave it
No drip no action in my book.

 

My understanding is you do get more noise and vibration from RS mounts. How much is hard to say and subject to taste. Some guys like lots of noise during sex and some like it quiet and smooth. 😇

 

 

You are spot on with that statement!

 

Do not do FD trans mount unless you want to hear every rotation of that engine crank. I suggest function first insert if you want to tighten that part up.