Which 993?
01-12-2018 | 06:50 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 59
Likes: 9
From: Omaha, Nebraska
Which 993?
Hi everyone!
Long time 993 dreamer and finally in a position this year to pick one up! I was wondering everyones thoughts on which model to get. My budget isn't huge so I am probably looking at a 2, 4 and maybe 4S.
- I would prefer manual but how do you all find the tiptronic? Is there a significant price reduction?
- I am thinking hardtop only which I presume is a premium.
- Is there a one of those that is the most fun? This will be a weekend car. Unfortunately it snows a lot around here and there is a bunch of salt. I presume I should garage it over that period?
- Any major service items I should know about?
- Is there a feeling on current price levels? Am I buying at potentially the top?
- Are the modifications that I shouldn't be afraid of that really help?
Thanks again
Long time 993 dreamer and finally in a position this year to pick one up! I was wondering everyones thoughts on which model to get. My budget isn't huge so I am probably looking at a 2, 4 and maybe 4S.
- I would prefer manual but how do you all find the tiptronic? Is there a significant price reduction?
- I am thinking hardtop only which I presume is a premium.
- Is there a one of those that is the most fun? This will be a weekend car. Unfortunately it snows a lot around here and there is a bunch of salt. I presume I should garage it over that period?
- Any major service items I should know about?
- Is there a feeling on current price levels? Am I buying at potentially the top?
- Are the modifications that I shouldn't be afraid of that really help?
Thanks again
01-12-2018 | 08:00 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,942
Likes: 152
Hi and welcome to Rennlist!
The Tip works fine and is a bit less expensive, but as you know on a 993 most prefer a manual.
Hardtop costs more, yes. Cabs and Targas usually trade for less.
They are all fun. Personally, I would buy the best one you find, rather than 4 or 2 or S. Ride in the snow if you must, but salt is rough on cars. An AWD 993 in the snow is a blast.
Search the archives, and you'll have plenty of reading about major service items.
No one knows what the future holds for values, but 993s have proven to be good so far; you probably have little risk of losing money buying one.
Yes, the original shocks weren't great, and an upgraded suspension is a great modification. There are plenty more, and another search will give you tons of ideas.
Good luck!
The Tip works fine and is a bit less expensive, but as you know on a 993 most prefer a manual.
Hardtop costs more, yes. Cabs and Targas usually trade for less.
They are all fun. Personally, I would buy the best one you find, rather than 4 or 2 or S. Ride in the snow if you must, but salt is rough on cars. An AWD 993 in the snow is a blast.
Search the archives, and you'll have plenty of reading about major service items.
No one knows what the future holds for values, but 993s have proven to be good so far; you probably have little risk of losing money buying one.
Yes, the original shocks weren't great, and an upgraded suspension is a great modification. There are plenty more, and another search will give you tons of ideas.
Good luck!
01-12-2018 | 08:29 PM
#3
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 9
Likes: 3
Go check out this one if its not already on your radar:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Porsch...p2047675.l2557
Listing ended, but they may still have it. No affiliation.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Porsch...p2047675.l2557
Listing ended, but they may still have it. No affiliation.
01-12-2018 | 09:34 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 741
Hi everyone!
Long time 993 dreamer and finally in a position this year to pick one up! I was wondering everyones thoughts on which model to get. My budget isn't huge so I am probably looking at a 2, 4 and maybe 4S.
- I would prefer manual but how do you all find the tiptronic? Is there a significant price reduction? If one is going to routinely be in stop-and-go traffic and/or are "in your golden years", a tip might make some sense. A manual is more appealing from an old-school sports car perspective, IMO. A tip is generally going to be less valuable than a manual.
- I am thinking hardtop only which I presume is a premium. It's not so much that the standard C2 coupe is at a premium, but cabs and targas are usually less valuable. At one time, targas were fetching a premium over the coupe, and cab prices were close to coupe prices, but that is no longer the case.
- Is there a one of those that is the most fun? This will be a weekend car. Unfortunately it snows a lot around here and there is a bunch of salt. I presume I should garage it over that period? A plain ol' C2 is probably the most bang for the buck for your situation. '95's have a little less HP than subsequent years. C2S's and C4S's are at a fairly steep premium. Unless you need 4WD, the C4 wouldn't generally be preferred over the C2 in an old school sports car like the 993.
- Any major service items I should know about? Clogged SAI causing a CEL on '96-'98, which could potentially result in a top-end rebuild to re-open the SAI passages. Same for worn valve guides, which is a cause of high oil consumption. Those are about the biggest things. .
- Is there a feeling on current price levels? Am I buying at potentially the top? Prices have softened recently. Who knows what the future will bring, but price history of previous desirable models and somewhat limited production of 993's suggests higher prices will ultimately prevail.
- Are the modifications that I shouldn't be afraid of that really help? Aftermarket struts, higher spring rates and lowering to a Euro ride height is almost universally considered a good thing. Engine/exhaust mods never add HP, except for cats with fewer cells. Other than than, it's pretty much the "look" you want to achieve or the kind of noise you want to make. For most, finding a clean, well-maintained vehicle is going to be a higher priority than mods.
Thanks again
Long time 993 dreamer and finally in a position this year to pick one up! I was wondering everyones thoughts on which model to get. My budget isn't huge so I am probably looking at a 2, 4 and maybe 4S.
- I would prefer manual but how do you all find the tiptronic? Is there a significant price reduction? If one is going to routinely be in stop-and-go traffic and/or are "in your golden years", a tip might make some sense. A manual is more appealing from an old-school sports car perspective, IMO. A tip is generally going to be less valuable than a manual.
- I am thinking hardtop only which I presume is a premium. It's not so much that the standard C2 coupe is at a premium, but cabs and targas are usually less valuable. At one time, targas were fetching a premium over the coupe, and cab prices were close to coupe prices, but that is no longer the case.
- Is there a one of those that is the most fun? This will be a weekend car. Unfortunately it snows a lot around here and there is a bunch of salt. I presume I should garage it over that period? A plain ol' C2 is probably the most bang for the buck for your situation. '95's have a little less HP than subsequent years. C2S's and C4S's are at a fairly steep premium. Unless you need 4WD, the C4 wouldn't generally be preferred over the C2 in an old school sports car like the 993.
- Any major service items I should know about? Clogged SAI causing a CEL on '96-'98, which could potentially result in a top-end rebuild to re-open the SAI passages. Same for worn valve guides, which is a cause of high oil consumption. Those are about the biggest things. .
- Is there a feeling on current price levels? Am I buying at potentially the top? Prices have softened recently. Who knows what the future will bring, but price history of previous desirable models and somewhat limited production of 993's suggests higher prices will ultimately prevail.
- Are the modifications that I shouldn't be afraid of that really help? Aftermarket struts, higher spring rates and lowering to a Euro ride height is almost universally considered a good thing. Engine/exhaust mods never add HP, except for cats with fewer cells. Other than than, it's pretty much the "look" you want to achieve or the kind of noise you want to make. For most, finding a clean, well-maintained vehicle is going to be a higher priority than mods.
Thanks again
01-12-2018 | 09:36 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,992
Likes: 476
From: Winston-Salem, NC
The '95 is OBD1 but no VARIORAM, the '96-'98 are OBD2 but are VARIORAM. Rather than year, IMHO, the important thing is mechanical and cosmetic condition. Try to be as objective as possible. Looking to purchase a 993 is like dating beautiful women...It's hard to keep your emotions in check! 
01-13-2018 | 09:43 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,628
Likes: 775
From: United States
My advice is TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't let your emotions consume you when you think you find the right one. If you are looking at a Wide Body 4S most are higher mileage and easily $75K+ ... if you find one at the lower end in price prepare to move quick! Get a PPI, Leakdown and Compression Test. Top end rebuilds are easily $10 - $15K. Good luck on your search.
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01-13-2018 | 11:41 AM
#9
RL Community Team
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,839
Likes: 1,589
From: Dallas, TX
I have a base 1996 C2.narrow-body
In my case the priority was as follows:
In my case the priority was as follows:
- Coup as for me the roof line defines the look of the car I love.
- A stick shift as shifting, for me, was all part of the Porsche experience.
- Condition, I found one that spent most of its life in NM and seemed to drive correctly.
- Price, one I could afford, ended up being a private seller where I paid a 3K or 4K premium for good condition of the body.
01-13-2018 | 11:45 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 894
Likes: 212
From: Manchester, NH
I was in a similiar position as you , always wanted an aircooled, never a Porsche owner, on a budget . I did not really want a pampered, low miles garage queen and the price premium that came with it. Too perfect that I would be scared to drive it. Kept looking forever, almost a year, and finally found one '96 coupe, stick, 2wd, with 100k miles on it for $40k in 2016. Yes it had issues, but I figured that every year I attack something new on the car that needs addressed and over time make it mine. First year was fluids changed, last year was suspension ( shocks, springs, control arms) and alternator issue. Mods last year: New headlight lenses and HID's .
If something comes up in life and I have to sell, should at worst get close to what my purchase price was.
Oh yeah, the one you finally find will always be on the east or west coast, far away from you. ( or at least it seems like it)
If something comes up in life and I have to sell, should at worst get close to what my purchase price was.
Oh yeah, the one you finally find will always be on the east or west coast, far away from you. ( or at least it seems like it)
01-13-2018 | 08:29 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 171
From: Earth
Research as much as possible beforehand. Having a better understanding of what you want will prevent disappointment later. Widebody vs Narrow, AWD vs 2wd, C4S/C2S vs C4/C2 etc.
Look at older ads and get a feel for what is a good price for each. When you find something that fits the bill don't hesitate! Be sure to do a PPI with a reputable shop. Exercise caution in the rust belt states. While most of these were never daily drivers I've seen some surprising rust damage. Frame rails and windshield areas seem to be the most effected.
Lastly there is no firm set of boundaries on price. Most cars seem to trade within a range though. You can get lucky and find one under that or your dream car maybe a tick over. Whatever the case give yourself some wiggle room to pay a bit over. Don't let one you really want get away or you'll be like my neighbor who talks about the time he let a 98 C2S slip away for $700 worth of paint work on the bumper. Said car was $50k at the time.
Look at older ads and get a feel for what is a good price for each. When you find something that fits the bill don't hesitate! Be sure to do a PPI with a reputable shop. Exercise caution in the rust belt states. While most of these were never daily drivers I've seen some surprising rust damage. Frame rails and windshield areas seem to be the most effected.
Lastly there is no firm set of boundaries on price. Most cars seem to trade within a range though. You can get lucky and find one under that or your dream car maybe a tick over. Whatever the case give yourself some wiggle room to pay a bit over. Don't let one you really want get away or you'll be like my neighbor who talks about the time he let a 98 C2S slip away for $700 worth of paint work on the bumper. Said car was $50k at the time.
01-14-2018 | 11:35 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 148
From: Montana
They are all great cars but IMO the most fun is a manual shift, narrow body, C2 hands down. The widebodies are good looking but they add weight and have more stagger front to rear so they aren’t as agile or crisp. The absolute best would be to get an RS Tribute from someone who has already completed the project. Turbos are a blast as well, but different. You get a lot more thrust but give up simplicity and agility in exchange. Also a lot more $$.
I think once you narrow down to body style you want, then just find the best condition car you can. The year isn’t that important. The lack of SAI is nice in the 95 but the varioram is really nice in the later cars. I guess if you want to chip your car avoid 1996 since they can’t take a tune.
Miles are less important than condition. I’ve seen cars with 100k+ that are much better shape than cars with 50k. At this point age is catching up with all of them, so if the PO didn’t already do the work, you are going to end up doing it and that’s gonna cost money. Higher mile cars are more likely to have had major systems refurbished (suspension, engine, clutch, trans) so may end up being your best bet unless you really want a low mile car.
Good luck!
I think once you narrow down to body style you want, then just find the best condition car you can. The year isn’t that important. The lack of SAI is nice in the 95 but the varioram is really nice in the later cars. I guess if you want to chip your car avoid 1996 since they can’t take a tune.
Miles are less important than condition. I’ve seen cars with 100k+ that are much better shape than cars with 50k. At this point age is catching up with all of them, so if the PO didn’t already do the work, you are going to end up doing it and that’s gonna cost money. Higher mile cars are more likely to have had major systems refurbished (suspension, engine, clutch, trans) so may end up being your best bet unless you really want a low mile car.
Good luck!
01-14-2018 | 02:20 PM
#15
RL Technical Advisor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,871
Likes: 66
From: Portland Oregon
Condition is EVERYTHING so take your time in finding a good example of what you want. Detailed maintenance records is a big plus and worth a premium.
They are all great cars, however I would skip the '96 MY due to OBD-II issues and the non-reprogrammable ECU.
Good luck!!!
They are all great cars, however I would skip the '96 MY due to OBD-II issues and the non-reprogrammable ECU.
Good luck!!!