MrCanuck

My driver's power seat has started "sticking".. One of the power seat controls moves the whole seat forward/back and up/down. However, it now won't go forward (I have it as far back as it would go.) It will however still go up and down. Also, while trying to move the seat forward I can hear the electrical motor working, but there is no movement.... I can't see anything visibly blocking the seat, so what could it be? (oh ya, it did this a few months ago, then "released" and now is stuck again)

Don't lift

Sit it the seat, press the forward position control and at the same time using your body weight to scoot forward.....kind of man handling it a bid and it should free itself. Good luck!

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'97 blk/blk C2S

John D.

Hi MrCanuck,

Remove the button plate on the side of the seat, and you will see the button contacts (it's easier with the seat out - but can be done with the seat in). Be sure the button makes contact and the points are clean.

If that doesn't fix it - remove the seat and look at the rails - and be sure that there is nothing blocking them.....

If those look OK, it's probably the worm drive gear in the cable housing (read the post above for a quick fix - or unless it's stripped) - which you should see "on top" of the motor" under the seat....

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong - but that's my guess

ca993twin

My passenger seat did that... I sat in the seat and while pressing the button, did my best impersonation of a bucking bronco... glad there was nobody watching. It freed the seat up just fine!

STLPCA

In all likelihood, the advice "Don't lift" gave will solve your fairly common problem (discussed in several prior threads). You really need to "ride" the seat to get the drive to catch. Thereafter avoid leaving the seat in the fully back position. If this doesn't work, next most likely is a broken drive. Check the DIY at p-car.com.

Carrera Mike

I'm not quite sure if I understand your seat problem, but mine broke one of the cables. When I pressed the fwd or back botton, only one side of the seat moves a lttle bit. So in the bottom from of the seat I pulled the cable of the side that will not move, sure enough, the cable was worn and frayed.
$28 was the replacement cost. Installed it myself. Just make sure that the seat is centered when I installed the other cable so it moves equally on both sides.

Suwipin

Hi Mr. Canuck,

I had a similar experience when my seat was moved to the most forward position and then it got stuck.

With ViperBob's and Kim's help (thanks again guys ), we found out that the problem was due to a "stripped" cable seat. The motor was still working but due to the stripped cable seat (and thus not engaged properly), the seat will not move.

I think my experience is also exactly the same as Carrera Mike's

I would also follow Dan's sound advice (don't move the seat to the most rear/forward position to avoid having it stuck).

Best wishes in fixing your seat.

MrCanuck

well, I guess it's a good thing I'm not a cowboy for a living because no matter how much bucking I did I couldn't get the seat to move (I bucked while holding and/or alternatively pressing the forward button.) I also smashed my body into the back seat and tried pushing it forward too.

I should probably be more accurate in my description too... while holding down the button I don't hear a continuous motor sound, but rather an initial "clunk". If I press the button continuously it'll clunk-clunk-clunk.

I took a look at the seat and that doesn't look easy to remove... I guess this requires a trip to the mechanic.

Carrera Mike

MrCunuck,

The cables are easy to check if they're broken or not. If you look below the seat, from the front, you'll see 2 plastic tubes coming from the middle(where the motor for fore and aft movement is) then seperating, one to the inboard, one outboard(each are bent like U-shaped). Inside these tubes are the cables. The plastic tubes are only held by clips to the frame of the seat.

-Just pull off the clip, then pull the ends of the tubes/cables off, one end from the motor, one end from the seat railing.

-Once you take the plastic tube, you'll notice that the cable is inside. Pull the cable out and you should be able to tell of the cable is frayed.

-Just reverse the procedure for the installation.

**Important.. Do not move the seat while you have a cable off, so the seat stays even.


I sent you a PM, MrCanuck

MrCanuck

Carrera Mike,

You were right.. the cables were easy to remove, I removed the inside cable to the inboard since it looked liked it was the one responsible for moving the seat forward... however, what is your definition of a frayed cable? The middle of my cable out towards the ends has a good thread on it, however as the cable tapers off to the square ends, the threads do disappear... should it be a healthy thread all the way to the end, or does a frayed cable mean the entire thread is shot?

Many thanks,

24FPS

i had a similar problem... turned out one of the cables/wires was being pinched by the seat & rail.

bol w/ the fix.

Carrera Mike

I'm glad to help

-Frayed is when the individual strands of the cable starts to break. That would cause jamming of the cable inside the tube as the motor tries to turn it. (what you thought as "threads" are actually the individual strands of cable).

-The ends of the cables should be square. Like you mention, they tapers off to square. If they're not anymore, they will slip. The square end is what locks them in the motor(on 1 end) and rail gear(on the other end).

If any of the discrepancies above exists, cable needs replacement. They're inexpensive. $28~30 price range. Tube(their jacket) comes with them.

When you install them back, make sure that the square ends are properly ENGAGED with the motor and the gear.

Hope this helps/if you have any questions, I PM you my work phone. I'll be here 'till 2PM EST.

Mike

MrCanuck

Hmm, well:
- the cables aren't being pinched
- the cable (inboard only checked, but it moves the seat forward) isn't frayed
- my best bucking to free up the seat didn't work
- there is nothing blocking the rails...

With a flashlight I was able to see what is happening under the seat when the button is pressed. Press the button and you get an:
-audible clunk
-slight up/down movement of the motor (this appears normal based on what my passenger seat does)
and an ever-so-slight turn forward, and then immediately it goes back, of the screw/pole thingy which moves the seat. I'd say it only rotates about 1/8th of the circumference of the circle.

any other ideas out there?

p-car.com talks about how to replace the frayed cable, but also says seat problems could be due to a bad switch.. What are the symptoms of a bad switch?

Carrera Mike

MrCunuck, Just curious, did you check the outboard cable? ~Mike

JPS

For me, the cable had just come out of the socket. Bucking didn't work, but disconnecting the cable and reconnecting it worked like a charm.