60k mile maintenance - what and how much?
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Assuming I purchase a 993 with 61K on the odo and it hasn't gotten the 60k mileage maintenance done on it, what does this entail and how much could I expect to pay? What's at stake if I skip getting this done for 20k miles or so? Your feedback, as always, is appreciated!
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I'm getting close to my 60,000 mile service. I expect the following (ouch):
1. oil/filter change
2. spark plugs/wires?
3. trans/front diff fluid change
4. belts
5. brake-fluid flush
I would also expect an inspection, and that may turn up stuff I don't want to hear about.
Some of this stuff is easier with the engine out, so if you are close to clutch-replacement time (upgrade to LWF), then maybe some of this stuff could be done then. Also, I'd replace the diverter valves if the engine comes out.
For sure do the fluids and belts. I'm doing oil changes every 7500 miles.
1. oil/filter change
2. spark plugs/wires?
3. trans/front diff fluid change
4. belts
5. brake-fluid flush
I would also expect an inspection, and that may turn up stuff I don't want to hear about.
Some of this stuff is easier with the engine out, so if you are close to clutch-replacement time (upgrade to LWF), then maybe some of this stuff could be done then. Also, I'd replace the diverter valves if the engine comes out.
For sure do the fluids and belts. I'm doing oil changes every 7500 miles.
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My 60K service included: Oil Change / Filters, Spark Plug Wires, The belts seemed to be ok but I changed them anyway, Things they found that were worked on, Turn Signal Light, Brakes were 30% so I had them done. And the Power Steering Rack was replaced, it had a slight leak. The clutch was not replaced it was still in good shape. Everything exept the brakes ran me approx. $800.00 that does include the rebuilt rack.
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I just had a 60k service completed, which in addition to the items listed above included new distributor caps and rotors, brake pads/rotors, etc...
I wouldn't pass this service up. I also bought my car at 60k, and used the service as an opportunity to get acquainted with my local independent mechanic and have them do a complete inspection on a new-to-me car. I had a lot of extra work done but the cost of just the 60k service was around $800-900. Total cost of the work I had done was around $2,000. Do the service for your peace of mind.
I wouldn't pass this service up. I also bought my car at 60k, and used the service as an opportunity to get acquainted with my local independent mechanic and have them do a complete inspection on a new-to-me car. I had a lot of extra work done but the cost of just the 60k service was around $800-900. Total cost of the work I had done was around $2,000. Do the service for your peace of mind.
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I'd add a fuel filter.
note: I've got 80K now and decided to do the distributor belt (before something bad happens...something you may want to think about)
Edward
note: I've got 80K now and decided to do the distributor belt (before something bad happens...something you may want to think about)
Edward
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Edward,
How much did the distributor belt replacement cost? I'm afraid to do that myself.
I did the distributor caps and rotors. Took digital pictures of the wires and labeled them to make sure they go back in the right routing and position. They have a noticeable improvement! Acceleration is now better starting at around 26K rpm, which wasn't the case when I had my pitted/corroded set.
How much did the distributor belt replacement cost? I'm afraid to do that myself.
I did the distributor caps and rotors. Took digital pictures of the wires and labeled them to make sure they go back in the right routing and position. They have a noticeable improvement! Acceleration is now better starting at around 26K rpm, which wasn't the case when I had my pitted/corroded set.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dist1.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dist2.jpg)
Last edited by Carrera Mike; 11-25-2003 at 11:20 AM.
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I called a couple of Porsche dealers recently for a price on a 30K for a turbo. It was between $1750 and $2000. And the turbo was cheaper than a N/A because of less parts (one cap and rotor and only 6 plugs) and labor. Now we know why they are called Stealers....
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Mike,
I don't know yet...it's in the shop as we speak. I'm a die-hard DIY-er, but at this point in time I've got no time, especially since this particular DIY task seems like a REAL PITA!!! Sorry I have no definitive answer for you![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward
I don't know yet...it's in the shop as we speak. I'm a die-hard DIY-er, but at this point in time I've got no time, especially since this particular DIY task seems like a REAL PITA!!! Sorry I have no definitive answer for you
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Edward