Chris L

Getting ready to put this all back together and was wondering if these surfaces are clean enough. I scraped the housing with a razor blade and a scotch brite pad. I degreased the cover and used a scotch brite pad on that too.

Planning on new gaskets, donuts and nuts with Loctite 574 between the gasket and housing only.

P-daddy

Looks good to reassemble. You can take it to another level, and refinish the covers.

nine9six

Hmm, how much are new timing chain covers?

If cost-prohibitive, I would put more diligence in cleaning the cover gasket groove, and apply the Loctite to both the housing and the cover surfaces.

I would want the center of the cover groove looking as clean as the 2/3 raised radius tab to the right of the hole.

Torque to spec in correct pattern if designated.

OverBoosted28

If you can clean the original mating surface, without scoring the material, then do so! Looks as though there's still old material......

BHMav8r

+1 The covers still have some material. Needs to be bare metal. Its a PITA but better than a leak.

P-daddy

^I could be wrong but magnesium covers shouldn't be stripped bare unless you recoat them.

Edward

Agreed! There absolutely is old material on there. Must be removed or you risk leaks. But be careful as to not make any marks or scoring on the bare metal.

Edward

IainM

Isn't that why you use the Loctite 574? to fill in all those pits and bumps? I think you're asking a lot of a rubber bead to seal against those variations. I've seen posts talking about self leveling powder coats.
I'm interested in this because it's in my future.

CalvinC4S

I recently did a reseal on a 95 engine that looked about like this, actually worse.
I believe what we are seeing is corrosion under the hard coating.

What I used, was a product called Curil T for the chain cover gasket and O-rings. Then I used 574 on the case to chain housing flange.

It stayed bone dry, but if money was no object it would have been nice to replace the housings and covers.

I have never seen 574 used with a rubber gasket (I don't know if it would dry), only metal to metal or paper flanges.

nine9six

I believe so. I think the housing is as good as it is going to get but the cover gasket groove needs more work with the scotch brite pad.

Ed Hughes

I too used Curil T. I'd never use Loctite 574 here.

nine9six

Calvin and Ed's recommendation for Curl T makes sense here. Yamaha also makes a like rubber gasket sealer called Yamabond, which could be used in this application.

I thought the OP was quoting Loktite from the Porsche Repair Manual.
Thats what I get for thinking...

P-daddy

I used Curil T as well when I did my chain cover gaskets. Thems some sticky chet!

Churchill

Don't use 574 with rubber gaskets, use Curil-T. 574 is an anaerobic sealant and only gets used metal to metal or as a glaze on thin gaskets. With the Curil T, just a glaze. More is not better. The groove in the chain cover looks fine, but the chain box mating surface needs a little more work. I think I used a clean metal straightedge at an angle to gently scrape that surface clean.

Endoman

http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...aingaskets.htm
Followed this worked a treat.