Oil Dipstick question...
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Oil Dipstick question...
Hello fellow Porsche enthusiasts
Got a question for you guys and girls, I think my oil dipstick is not the original stick.
Does anyone got the time and effort to measure your oil dipstick and confirm the length of it?
Much appreciated if so.
Have a good evening
Mike
Got a question for you guys and girls, I think my oil dipstick is not the original stick.
Does anyone got the time and effort to measure your oil dipstick and confirm the length of it?
Much appreciated if so.
Have a good evening
Mike
#2
Rennlist Member
Hope this helps.
#5
RL Community Team
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With the curve in the above-measured stick, it is likely reading an inch or two shorter than it is with enough error to potentially over-fill.
How I change oil and determine fill using the gauge:
On level ground, I drain the oil tank and the engine case, and through the right rear wheel well, I replace both filters. I do not disconnect any tubes to attempt to drain the oil in the oil lines as my belief is that breaking the seals presents unnecessary leak failure modes. I do keep a can of electric motor cleaner on hand to clean off oil spilled on the engine and suspension when removing the smaller filter.
I refill the oil tank with 8 quarts +/- of oil and run the engine to a fully warmed state looking to the temperature and oil pressure gauges to see if they have settled into their normal operating range. I then, with the engine running, add additional oil, ¼ quart at a time until the
oil level dash gauge settles at about midway with a fully warmed engine. I feel this method gives some additional margin of safety in avoiding inadvertently overfilling the system as well as additional status feedback as the needle is not pinned during operation but moves in relation to how hot the oil is. The primary measurement of an oil fill is done with the dipstick so I also look at it a well and note the position of the oil. If you decide to follow my measurement procedure and determining the fill with the dash gauge and you pull the dip stick and it is dry, it suggests your gauge is a bit out of adjustment. In such cases, I would fill the oil to the mid-point on the dip stick range but not above.
How I change oil and determine fill using the gauge:
On level ground, I drain the oil tank and the engine case, and through the right rear wheel well, I replace both filters. I do not disconnect any tubes to attempt to drain the oil in the oil lines as my belief is that breaking the seals presents unnecessary leak failure modes. I do keep a can of electric motor cleaner on hand to clean off oil spilled on the engine and suspension when removing the smaller filter.
I refill the oil tank with 8 quarts +/- of oil and run the engine to a fully warmed state looking to the temperature and oil pressure gauges to see if they have settled into their normal operating range. I then, with the engine running, add additional oil, ¼ quart at a time until the
oil level dash gauge settles at about midway with a fully warmed engine. I feel this method gives some additional margin of safety in avoiding inadvertently overfilling the system as well as additional status feedback as the needle is not pinned during operation but moves in relation to how hot the oil is. The primary measurement of an oil fill is done with the dipstick so I also look at it a well and note the position of the oil. If you decide to follow my measurement procedure and determining the fill with the dash gauge and you pull the dip stick and it is dry, it suggests your gauge is a bit out of adjustment. In such cases, I would fill the oil to the mid-point on the dip stick range but not above.
#6
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^^^^^^^^^ unless you've calibrated your oil level float, within the tank, DO NOT fill oil, while watching gauge, to see when you're at "mid level"!!!!!! Customary ~8 quarts, then maybe another (at idle) to see it at least on the stick. Then warm engine to operating temp, and bring level up to half, or 2/3rds at the most ON THE STICK! I used a jewelers file, and made a notch where I want it to sit. :-)
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#8
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I just measured the dip stick following its curve to get the true length. I measured from the stop on the yellow pull handle that sits against the filler tube to the end. I got measurements from 38-1/2 Inches to 38-5/8 inches making several measurements. Seeing that the entire range on the dip stick is about an inch a small error can cause the measured fill to be misleading.
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+1. Agreed. Below practice is a time honored 993 oil/change service.
As for the removal of the small filter (lifter circuit) simply have a couple of the green O-rings around should you require removing the side oil tank return line. With a wee bit of practice, the small oil filter is easily removed.
As for the removal of the small filter (lifter circuit) simply have a couple of the green O-rings around should you require removing the side oil tank return line. With a wee bit of practice, the small oil filter is easily removed.
With the curve in the above-measured stick, it is likely reading an inch or two shorter than it is with enough error to potentially over-fill.
How I change oil and determine fill using the gauge:
On level ground, I drain the oil tank and the engine case, and through the right rear wheel well, I replace both filters. I do not disconnect any tubes to attempt to drain the oil in the oil lines as my belief is that breaking the seals presents unnecessary leak failure modes. I do keep a can of electric motor cleaner on hand to clean off oil spilled on the engine and suspension when removing the smaller filter.
I refill the oil tank with 8 quarts +/- of oil and run the engine to a fully warmed state looking to the temperature and oil pressure gauges to see if they have settled into their normal operating range. I then, with the engine running, add additional oil, ¼ quart at a time until the
oil level dash gauge settles at about midway with a fully warmed engine. I feel this method gives some additional margin of safety in avoiding inadvertently overfilling the system as well as additional status feedback as the needle is not pinned during operation but moves in relation to how hot the oil is. The primary measurement of an oil fill is done with the dipstick so I also look at it a well and note the position of the oil. If you decide to follow my measurement procedure and determining the fill with the dash gauge and you pull the dip stick and it is dry, it suggests your gauge is a bit out of adjustment. In such cases, I would fill the oil to the mid-point on the dip stick range but not above.
How I change oil and determine fill using the gauge:
On level ground, I drain the oil tank and the engine case, and through the right rear wheel well, I replace both filters. I do not disconnect any tubes to attempt to drain the oil in the oil lines as my belief is that breaking the seals presents unnecessary leak failure modes. I do keep a can of electric motor cleaner on hand to clean off oil spilled on the engine and suspension when removing the smaller filter.
I refill the oil tank with 8 quarts +/- of oil and run the engine to a fully warmed state looking to the temperature and oil pressure gauges to see if they have settled into their normal operating range. I then, with the engine running, add additional oil, ¼ quart at a time until the
oil level dash gauge settles at about midway with a fully warmed engine. I feel this method gives some additional margin of safety in avoiding inadvertently overfilling the system as well as additional status feedback as the needle is not pinned during operation but moves in relation to how hot the oil is. The primary measurement of an oil fill is done with the dipstick so I also look at it a well and note the position of the oil. If you decide to follow my measurement procedure and determining the fill with the dash gauge and you pull the dip stick and it is dry, it suggests your gauge is a bit out of adjustment. In such cases, I would fill the oil to the mid-point on the dip stick range but not above.