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I'll admit, I did twist and held for the first few months of ownership. One day I just twisted it without holding and it started. Doing that ever since.
Further reading indicated that it's just an 'analog' push start button.
I'll admit, I did twist and held for the first few months of ownership. One day I just twisted it without holding and it started. Doing that ever since.
Further reading indicated that it's just an 'analog' push start button.
I'll admit, I did twist and held for the first few months of ownership. One day I just twisted it without holding and it started. Doing that ever since.
Further reading indicated that it's just an 'analog' push start button.
Even if you keep holding the key in the start position, the computer stops cranking the engine once it starts, unlike traditional key-start vehicles, where you could over crank the engine if you didn't let go of the key.
Not sure if this is what you are saying, but you need'nt go in to neurtral to activate brake hold. Just a quck lift and depress while in gear at a light and it activates.
Yes this is what I was saying. I did not know that so thank you.
Apparently the digital coolant temp is seen by Porsche more as an idiot light than an actual readout; as in if it's saying 194f (or 90c) then 'all is well in the world'. The simple proof is that 194/90 is displayed regardless of the drive mode selected, even though the engine runs cooler in sport and sport+ than in normal. But if they allow it to a show the actual temp then they'll get more service calls from worried owners. Perhaps they think GT car owners are more informed?
My solution is to have the oil temperature displayed as well; that does show the actual temp at all times and you can clearly see it moving up and down.
I believe the coolant temp gauge does reflect the actual temp it’s just that under normal street driving conditions there is more than enough capacity to maintain 194 F. However, under more demanding conditions such as driving on track with an ambient temp of 80F the system can no longer maintain 194 F, and you will see a higher temp.
My solution is to have the oil temperature displayed as well; that does show the actual temp at all times and you can clearly see it moving up and down.
IMHO, Oil Temperature is a better indication of engine operating temperature than the Coolant Temperature. Ex: I don't consider the engine (any ICE engine) to be fully warmed up until the Oil Temperature exceeds the Coolant Temperature (5*F-10*F) and over the boiling point of water (super-heat), at the altitude the vehicle is at. Then, Oil Temperatures over 275*F will motivate me to change the oil ASAP as the various additive packages that allow oil to work as we hope it will, start breaking down at around this temperature.
Last edited by Bluehighways; 06-12-2024 at 08:13 PM.
I believe the coolant temp gauge does reflect the actual temp it’s just that under normal street driving conditions there is more than enough capacity to maintain 194 F. However, under more demanding conditions such as driving on track with an ambient temp of 80F the system can no longer maintain 194 F, and you will see a higher temp.
somewhere in the user manual it actually says they display the same water temp unless there’s a problem.
IMHO, Oil Temperature is a better indication of engine operating temperature than the Coolant Temperature. Ex: I don't consider the engine (any ICE engine) to be fully warmed up until the Oil Temperature exceeds the Coolant Temperature (5*F-10*F) and over the boiling point of water (super-heat), at the altitude the vehicle is at. Then, Oil Temperatures over 275*F will motivate me to change the oil ASAP as the various additive packages that allow oil to work as we hope it will, start breaking down at around this temperature.
same here WRT to warming the car up. Takes a good few miles as well, the actual obviously depending on ambient temp.
06-11-2024 | 11:35 PM
