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a thought @drcollie : when you say hit the red exclamation mark on the battery pack, did you do that while trying to getting a LiOS battery-equipped car?
Great info, thanks for sharing. Just FYI, Scott has a 911T, so it's a LiOn battery in there now. How does that change your suggestions?
Oh darn, thanks for pointing that out and sorry I didn't catch that! YEs, that does change the equation, you do NOT want to mix battery chemistries, or batteries of different Amp Hour ratings when doing the method I suggested. In that case I would not suggest doing a parallel battery set-up unless you had another similar sizedLithium Battery.... which then gets cost prohibative. Also note in this particular set up you would probably be perfectly fine attaching a Lead to a Lithium Battery since you are NOT using this as an actual "battery bank" that would be discharged and recharged, it is just a one time suplemental thing to assist in holding a charge over a longer period and not used to start the car or be cycled....but regardless we always want to follow the rules and be safe. So don't do it.
I can't remember who posted this and where but a suggestion was made to have a NOCO Boost HD 🇬🇧 70 on hand and connected to the fuse box to open the frunk. Whoever that was @detansinn ? @Wilder@Macboy ? @siberian ? would you look at this pic and tell me why I still can't get the frunk open? There's no red light on the box indicating a bad connection so I'm baffled; the CTEK is not connected at the time of this picture through the cig lighter. Dirty yes, no flames please!
It might have been stated but YES the MINI JUMP STARTER do have a BYPASS function so that you can get Energy to the clamps. For example on our Antigravity MICRO-STARTs or the NOCO Brand we have built in safety protections that if the clamps are connected to something that does not have voltage the Jump Starter will remain dormant, but you can over come this with a BYPASS button. THe NOCO is the red exclimation, our is holding our power button down for 2 seconds. Please remember to have your connections CORRECT FIRST!!! Or else you can do damage to your system since when you press the bypass button the energy is allows to the clamps of the Jump Starters.
On another NOTE.... this method of connecting the Jump Starter or battery to the fuse panel is ridiculously archaic and actually does not work all that well beause it does not transmit the energy well to the switch to unlock the frunk. Antigravity Batteries actually made an much easier SOLUTION to this. Its a harness that you attach to your battery clamps and route to your windshield/hood junction.... then when ever you need to open the frunk or start the car you simply plug your jump starter into it and you have real power to your whole cars system so you can pop the frunk or jump start the car in seconds.
Thank you @Antigravity for your helpful insight. What astounds me is how hard would it have been to have a mechanical vs. electrical switch to open the frunk? So once in the car using the e-key, pulling up the lever in every vehicle I've ever owned in my 48 years of owning/running/fixing them would that have been to have a mechanically operating frunk?? Jeezus Porsche
Thank you @Antigravity for your helpful insight. What astounds me is how hard would it have been to have a mechanical vs. electrical switch to open the frunk? So once in the car using the e-key, pulling up the lever in every vehicle I've ever owned in my 48 years of owning/running/fixing them would that have been to have a mechanically operating frunk?? Jeezus Porsche
That was last used on my 996. It was a cable that was hidden in the front headlight. NOt exactly easy access, but better than no access I suppose.
Let me add something, because the prior comment came off as unqualified. (Along the lines of "there's nothing worse you can do for a car than run it for a few minutes.")
It probably is a bad thing to start the car for a short period of time, if that is the only thing you do for months prior and months afterwards. In a regularly used car, this is nothing to worry about.
Also and separately (because it is a totally different issue), bore scoring is an issue that plagues the 996 generation, it is not a serious concern in subsequent generations. I'm not being contrary, of course you should let your oil temp get to 170+ before ripping it; of course an Italian tune-up is a good idea from time to time; of course running the car is better for the powertrain and all fluids than letting it sit for long periods.
Full disclosure my 911 is my only car and I drive it every day, and that's always one of the best parts of my day
I can't remember who posted this and where but a suggestion was made to have a NOCO Boost HD 🇬🇧 70 on hand and connected to the fuse box to open the frunk. Whoever that was @detansinn ? @Wilder@Macboy ? @siberian ? would you look at this pic and tell me why I still can't get the frunk open? There's no red light on the box indicating a bad connection so I'm baffled; the CTEK is not connected at the time of this picture through the cig lighter. Dirty yes, no flames please!
Often it’s a lack of power from the booster. When my car needed to be jumped earlier this month, running jumper cables from another car and/or using a NOCO was ineffective. We had to run jumper cables from the heavy duty AAA truck to the contact points within the car to pop the frunk.
Yes of course but still won't open, just finished trying the last 20 minutes. Here's a video, any sharp-eyed onlookers who can spot an error on my part, please advise!
Just starting the car once every two weeks actually drains the battery. You have to drive it to recharge. How long do you leave it in storage? When I parked mine for 2.5 months, I disconnected the battery. Just make sure you leave the frunk open.
That’s the reason in boats that often get stored for months w/o use they have an off switch in each battery. Wonder if there are automotive battery off switches like they sell for boats one could install?
Yes of course but still won't open, just finished trying the last 20 minutes. Here's a video, any sharp-eyed onlookers who can spot an error on my part, please advise!
I still feel like you don't have a good ground. Your black clamp is on a painted surface. Some have suggested connecting it to the unpainted striker (the U shaped little bar at the rear of the door opening near the VIN and tire pressure sticker) or at least onto the unpainted bolt on the door hinge. But not on anything painted as that won't work.
02-28-2024, 07:19 PM
