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Took the cover off, clicked the remote-nothing. Oh #%it, battery too low. Figured out how to open the door with the emergency key but needed an external battery to power up the frunk so I took a long-time member's suggestion and bought this NOCO and this CTEK 56-926
The car was being started every 2 weeks while in a garage that doesn't have electricity to it yet (soon), thought I could get away with it and failed.
A couple things... Trying to start the car and get a charge into the battery by reving it makes logical sense, so I can understand why you tried it, but as an FYI a lead acid battery takes a decent amount of time to take a stable charge into it. Also when a Porsche is just being rev'd from idle it won't simulate actual driving because your car actually can tell when loads are put on the electrical system and your driving it. It gets this info from the Intelligent Battery Sensor on the Ground Cable and the computer will decide how much charging it needs and raise the voltage and current coming from the Alternator which just reving it won't do. That how modern Smart Alternators work.
If you have to continue this for a while, you can discounnect the battery at the Ground and just let it sit, which can lead to losing some settings, or if you want to keep the Car powered during storage, the cheapest way is to find a SUPER CHEAP battery of the same size, you car most likely has a H6 or probably H7 in the Turbo, so find a cheap battery of the same kind, Pep Boys has something called Value Grade I think about $50 dollars.... Then connect it in parallel to your existing battery by putting it on the frunk floor and connecting with some small gauge wire with alligator clamps. Your essentially doubling the capacity of your existing battery, and can store much longer. Yes, this is wasteful in the end, because you have and extra battery, but its actually cheaper and more efficient than an inverter w/charger or Powerstation. But if you have access to sunlight you also can get a small SOLAR Charger and put it outside your garage with a Solar Panel, but you will want about 30w or more sized Solar Panel minimum. But a Solar Panel will cost more than the cheap battery also.
We also sell Lithium Batteries...and they offer BUILT-IN WIRELESS Jump Starting so you won't ever need to connect a Jump STarter or anything to start your Car again, nor would you need to access the battery ever to open the frunk or jump start it again because its jump starting and re-powering of the car is wireless. But those are expensive, but do save about 35lbs over lead/acid and have more than 2x the lifecycle...so thats and option too. https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h6-rs/
A couple things... Trying to start the car and get a charge into the battery by reving it makes logical sense, so I can understand why you tried it, but as an FYI a lead acid battery takes a decent amount of time to take a stable charge into it. Also when a Porsche is just being rev'd from idle it won't simulate actual driving because your car actually can tell when loads are put on the electrical system and your driving it. It gets this info from the Intelligent Battery Sensor on the Ground Cable and the computer will decide how much charging it needs and raise the voltage and current coming from the Alternator which just reving it won't do. That how modern Smart Alternators work.
If you have to continue this for a while, you can discounnect the battery at the Ground and just let it sit, which can lead to losing some settings, or if you want to keep the Car powered during storage, the cheapest way is to find a SUPER CHEAP battery of the same size, you car most likely has a H6 or probably H7 in the Turbo, so find a cheap battery of the same kind, Pep Boys has something called Value Grade I think about $50 dollars.... Then connect it in parallel to your existing battery by putting it on the frunk floor and connecting with some small gauge wire with alligator clamps. Your essentially doubling the capacity of your existing battery, and can store much longer. Yes, this is wasteful in the end, because you have and extra battery, but its actually cheaper and more efficient than an inverter w/charger or Powerstation. But if you have access to sunlight you also can get a small SOLAR Charger and put it outside your garage with a Solar Panel, but you will want about 30w or more sized Solar Panel minimum. But a Solar Panel will cost more than the cheap battery also.
We also sell Lithium Batteries...and they offer BUILT-IN WIRELESS Jump Starting so you won't ever need to connect a Jump STarter or anything to start your Car again, nor would you need to access the battery ever to open the frunk or jump start it again because its jump starting and re-powering of the car is wireless. But those are expensive, but do save about 35lbs over lead/acid and have more than 2x the lifecycle...so thats and option too. https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h6-rs/
Great info, thanks for sharing. Just FYI, Scott has a 911T, so it's a LiOn battery in there now. How does that change your suggestions?
I don't need a solar charger any longer as my garage was built late Fall, 2023 and the electrician couldn't get the electricity run from the house to the garage as it is about 100' from the house. I've got an extension cord run out there now (as I should've done) and a CTEK unit arriving Friday. Thanks for the ideas though @Antigravity , @Wilder
@Scott P and for whomever this is useful: when I left my car in storage, I also couldn't run electricity to the car which is why I disconnected the battery. The car sat for 2.5 months and cranked as if not a day had gone by. Thank you @Antigravity for the cheap battery suggestion. Great solution for those leaving the car stored longer, though perhaps if it's going to be longer than three months, another arrangement should be considered.
If someone out there were to combine these things I think it would sell pretty well. Maybe even develop an app that will notify you when it needs to be brought in and charged.
I can't remember who posted this and where but a suggestion was made to have a NOCO Boost HD 🇬🇧 70 on hand and connected to the fuse box to open the frunk. Whoever that was @detansinn ? @Wilder@Macboy ? @siberian ? would you look at this pic and tell me why I still can't get the frunk open? There's no red light on the box indicating a bad connection so I'm baffled; the CTEK is not connected at the time of this picture through the cig lighter. Dirty yes, no flames please!
Someone else will have to chime in, but I seem to recall that these jump boxes have a "boost" button of some sort, and you may have to push that in order to force current out of them and into the dead car. Perhaps @Antigravity can advise on this. But check the manual about waking a dead LiOn battery, maybe you'll find it there.
The manual said the boost button is only for lead based batteries. I don't have the guts to try it unless someone here has successfully and cares to chime in. Thanks Adam.
How about trying a battery rather than a jumper box. Jumper cables from a good battery/car to your car. I think the issue is that your jump box is not putting out power because it senses the dead battery. Or the car's battery mgt system had disconnected the connection to protect the battery. Something like that is going on. But I would think eliminating the jump box is a safe place to start.
from an earlier post in another thread by @drcollie :
2) Now you need a booster to "wake up" the battery. If you don't have one, this will more than do the job off Amazon and it will also power that fuse circuit to open the trunk....
3) Hook it up to the battery and then when ready, press the red exclamation point switch. Upon pressing the switch you will immediately hear the car come to life and it will start right up. Then, carry the booster pack in the car and you can always get yourself out of a jam.
Charging the vehicle with the Porsche supplied charger is a whole different topic and they don't work that well through the 12v plug in, its hit or miss. But the above will get the car going. If the battery is truly dead and does not wake up, its several months before replacements are available.
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I just want to get the frunk open so I can hardwire install this
How about trying a battery rather than a jumper box. Jumper cables from a good battery/car to your car. I think the issue is that your jump box is not putting out power because it senses the dead battery. Or the car's battery mgt system had disconnected the connection to protect the battery. Something like that is going on. But I would think eliminating the jump box is a safe place to start.
^^^^ This is exactly what is shown in the owners manual.
I can't remember who posted this and where but a suggestion was made to have a NOCO Boost HD 🇬🇧 70 on hand and connected to the fuse box to open the frunk. Whoever that was @detansinn ? @Wilder@Macboy ? @siberian ? would you look at this pic and tell me why I still can't get the frunk open? There's no red light on the box indicating a bad connection so I'm baffled; the CTEK is not connected at the time of this picture through the cig lighter. Dirty yes, no flames please!
@Scott P try moving your ground to the unpainted head of that door hinge bolt.
I did and got a red light indicating a bad ground connection. I need to hit that red ! point according to @drcollie and that should do the trick. I'll try it tomorrow morning.
@Scott P my frunk got locked so I've done this. Ignore the YT videos. The ground has to go on the striker plate, not the door hinge. Also, the jumper box didn't work for me but a battery did.
02-28-2024, 12:32 PM
