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Hello Everyone,
As a new owner of a 2020 911 Carrera S (992), I thought I would join this forum and hopefully share my technical endeavors with everyone and mostly educate everyone as this is an amazing car platform. For sure it beats my Cayman S 718.
Bit of a background to set the stage, I purchased a vehicle in a damaged state and obviously a visit to a dealer will be at the later phase when the suspension will get fixed as I don't want any further damages with flatbeds, etc.
3 of the airbags got deployed (Steering, Seat and knee). And because the car sat for too long, the LifePo4 battery got flat.
I got lucky enough to recharge the battery and bring it back to life with proper LifePo4 compliant charger (the C-Tec one).
All electronics (dash) go online just fine. But I do get a one-click noise when I try to start the engine.
Couple of things that I observed:
- When I turn on the ignition to Position 1 (to light up the dash...etc.), I get the horn kick-in. After a couple of tries, it stops.
- If horn is stopped, and I try to fire it up, the horn starts again, and I have to back the key off.
- After a few attempts, the horn stays offline, but the engine start only "One-Clicks" the engine but does not turn over.
- I checked all fuses on both sides of the footwell -> All Good.
Couple of questions:
- Immobilizer: Is there a procedure to make sure it is not holding the Engine Start Process?
> The battery in the key fob is fine, and the car locks and unlocks with the key.
> Is there some sort of location where the key needs to be put physically to synch up and authorize? I tried removing the battery from the fob. Locked the car > Opened with physical key > put battery-less fob into center console (in the arm rest) > Message on dash said that they keyfob is not present.
- Is there some sort of relay or a fuse for the starter? Maybe behind the rear seats or other places?
- Pyro switch\fuse. Does it cut electricity to the entire Power Bus, or just some parts?
> I believe there is a Pyro fuse under the dash, but I don't want to dig into it yet as it is hard to get to it and I don't want to disturb the interior yet..etc.
Not having PIWIS, bit hard to see what is going on. I play a lot on my VWs and Audi with VCDS, but I don't believe it is compatible.
Any help to fire up the engine will be appreciated.
Thank you!
You sir, might be the pioneer here on the 992 forum. As the series is so new, I doubt any of us are having a knowledge base on these issues, our cars are all under warranty and will be until 2024, so not many are going to be looking at electrical interfaces at this point. I think you will need a PIWIS however, or similar scanner. You can't even reset the oil maintenance on them without one. The Scanner I bought to work on mine is $ 1,200 for example, and it does quite a bit.
There may be something that has to be reset after an airbag deployment, I think I recall reading that there is, but that's just a guess on my part.
Thank you so much for the encouragement drcollie. I might post on other forums around to see if there will be any feedback and cross-pollination on the topic. It is definitely a great challenge, but I will stay tuned here to see if any of the foremen will help to demystify the issue.
If airbags have been deployed, I believe you, by law, have to take the car to an authorized collision repair facility to get those replaced. Assuming it is a Porsche authorized facility, why not let them deal with those gremlins?
It probably was, but totaled or salvage is just an insurance/legal term. It doesn't mean the car can't be brought back to life mechanically and it sounds like the OP is doing exactly that
Turbonator, you are spot on! The structural integrity of the vehicle is at a spec.
The Totaled term has a wide scope, and these days it is easier for the insurance company to take that path as the labor and certifications of the technicians are high up. Just working the Aluminum (or Aluminium , depending where we are ;-)) on the vehicle, adds its own cost. But of course, the safety of the vehicle and future riders are a must.
Thank you for those who suggested dealer visit (yes, it will, once the engine starts). The technical (public) documentation on 992 is also not there yet. So I am surgically\carefully working in the dark. Let's put those salvage\totalled\legalities topics for another time or another thread.
Back to initial technical topic (as this is the category of this thread), looks like I am for a ride of taking out the dashboard. The pyro fuse is way under the dash, removed one 13mm nut easily, the other one is unreachable. Plus, one has to be very careful as there are two relay connections there. I'm taking some pics, video-ing it takes too long as I am I being very careful with all clips, etc. These are very delicate machines when it comes to connectors...etc.
Maybe someone could share the experience on removing the dashboard on a 991 gen? So far 6 bolts are off (2 per side, and 2 in the middle). Mid console is out with all electronics. Heater to be disconnected from the frunk compartment (2 hoses). Not sure if gages and infotainment components need to come out to release something in the back\mid of the dash.
Thanks!
Liability being what it is, I would expect that all manufacturers protect themselves any time the airbags deploy. It’s virtually guaranteed that there will be some level of injury or trauma. All cars have a “black box” that records several seconds (or longer) of data. In the event of a crash, the angle of steering wheel, the brake pressure, vehicle speed, duration from application of brake to impact, etc. etc. are stored and can be retrieved. I’d expect (speculation) that such data would be critical for any manufacturer when there has been a serious crash. It only makes sense that the vehicle would be immobilized in such an event and that it could only be started after the data is read.
But as said above, starting this project (I admire you for it) without a PIWIS is like trying to decode DNA with an abacus.
Last edited by Denny Swift; 09-11-2022 at 07:53 PM.
Well...have made some progress, could have been faster but had to wait for the part.
The pyro fuse has been replaced. But I also created an open loop connection (with high amperage wire) so that in the future if the car needed to be driven on the flat bed or put into garage, it will have the option to do so. This is not to bypass the safety and drive it but rather for service. The end of the wire has been sealed as well so that one would not think it is some sort of power bus extension. and a Label has been printed (love those RJ45 Patch Panel labelers )
The sad and unnecessary part of this exercise is that the whole dashboard had to come out. Never had to do it with my previous cars and there is always a fear of squeaking in the future. So, I took the liberty to use some 1mm felt tape and protect the chassis parts that will be in contact in plastics (potentially) ...hard to see the real clearances once the dash is on. Bit tedious job, and I would see why factory folks will not do it, but I don't think it is a bad idea.
Taking the dashboard out is bit tricky and one has to be patient. Windshield pillar covers have to come off, as well as the side vents. They hold the dash snug on the sides. I wish I had the service manual, but patience helps .
There are two nuts per side inside the car. And one bracket in the middle (by the middle console). There are also 2 Bolts at the frunk are. Battery has to come out to access the Heater and AC lines that need to be disconnected. Make sure the Gas is recouped and the coolant has been drained.
Feedback for my fellow Engineers: Gents, please relocate the fuse panel to somewhere more friendly. For those that will want to access it at any cost, they will always find a way. But putting it into a less destructive location is a much smarter idea and a better design. Maybe put some warranty seal or whatever (if CYA policy is needed). But the location under the dash is horrible. And besides there other fuses there that could pop if someone did something stupid. These are high-end cars, lots of pride of ownership goes into them.
Here are some pics if someone will be faced with it in the future. Hope this helps.
New pyro fuse One on the left that popped Location under the dash Be careful with the relay plastic harness, there are two side clips
New fuse installed Wires tucked in with slack\ no tension. Ends sealed with wire heat shrink tubing (two layers). Back to normal
Very impressive detective work and repair. Not something most of us will ever consider doing ourselves. I once had a Fiat 124 SC that had a short in it. With schematic in hand I eventually traced it down to a faulty diode in the tachometer. I was very proud of myself. Also vowed to never do something like that again.
You have moved my brain cells . I worked on Fiat 125 (Polish edition), Zastava, Fiat 128, Citroens..... Those were my first cars that I tinkered with when I was a kid. After that it became BMW 518 ...and that is how I stepped into mechanic job. Loved the German and Japanese cars. Now I guess I'm stuck with Germans
Nice. You may be once of the first to delve into a 992 in such detail - at least on this forum. I can only sympathize if you had to take the entire dash out of the car, that's a fairly miserable experience I have done a couple of times on other cars. Glad you got it going!
Well...have made some progress, could have been faster but had to wait for the part.
The pyro fuse has been replaced. But I also created an open loop connection (with high amperage wire) so that in the future if the car needed to be driven on the flat bed or put into garage, it will have the option to do so. This is not to bypass the safety and drive it but rather for service. The end of the wire has been sealed as well so that one would not think it is some sort of power bus extension. and a Label has been printed (love those RJ45 Patch Panel labelers )
The sad and unnecessary part of this exercise is that the whole dashboard had to come out. Never had to do it with my previous cars and there is always a fear of squeaking in the future. So, I took the liberty to use some 1mm felt tape and protect the chassis parts that will be in contact in plastics (potentially) ...hard to see the real clearances once the dash is on. Bit tedious job, and I would see why factory folks will not do it, but I don't think it is a bad idea.
Taking the dashboard out is bit tricky and one has to be patient. Windshield pillar covers have to come off, as well as the side vents. They hold the dash snug on the sides. I wish I had the service manual, but patience helps .
There are two nuts per side inside the car. And one bracket in the middle (by the middle console). There are also 2 Bolts at the frunk are. Battery has to come out to access the Heater and AC lines that need to be disconnected. Make sure the Gas is recouped and the coolant has been drained.
Feedback for my fellow Engineers: Gents, please relocate the fuse panel to somewhere more friendly. For those that will want to access it at any cost, they will always find a way. But putting it into a less destructive location is a much smarter idea and a better design. Maybe put some warranty seal or whatever (if CYA policy is needed). But the location under the dash is horrible. And besides there other fuses there that could pop if someone did something stupid. These are high-end cars, lots of pride of ownership goes into them.
Here are some pics if someone will be faced with it in the future. Hope this helps.
New pyro fuse One on the left that popped Location under the dash Be careful with the relay plastic harness, there are two side clips
New fuse installed Wires tucked in with slack\ no tension. Ends sealed with wire heat shrink tubing (two layers). Back to normal
Hi Sir,
can you please share the Pyro switch number and where you got it from z
To answer the question above,
This is actually Generic part that is used by VW, Audi and Porsche. The Part # 4G0 915 519. Amazon had it for $16 and I think eBay has a few for under $30.
Also, if that switch "blew up", your SRS module under middle console will prevent the engine from starting (due to crash data hold). The Engine will crank with the starter but will not fire up. Dealer or some third-party shop will need to perform the reset of the module. Then you will hear it hum :-)
It will be also worthy to replace all airbags prior to firing up the system (just to keep things clean) but if the car needs to be moved, it's okay of course.
09-08-2022, 04:08 PM
992 Engine Start help
The structural integrity of the vehicle is at a spec. 
)
. I worked on Fiat 125 (Polish edition), Zastava, Fiat 128, Citroens..... Those were my first cars that I tinkered with when I was a kid. After that it became BMW 518 ...and that is how I stepped into mechanic job. Loved the German and Japanese cars. Now I guess I'm stuck with Germans 
