Oh interesting, is this ensure consistent wear between the rotors and pads? Or does this prevent rotors getting warped?

I am planning on doing 2 to 3 events per year and only swappimg the pads out. I was assuming I could get away with replacing the rotors when I replace the OEM (daily use) pads?

 

All pads put material on the rotors. When you switch pad compounds then you get different glazing results on the rotors that can lead to what is often called "warped rotors". But rotors almost never warp, that's pad material built up unevenly that causes that pulsation effect. By not running different pads on the same rotors you can avoid some of that rotor vibration. For me, I found it much better to have dedicated track rotors matched to my track pads and keep the street pads and rotors separate and marked for each position on the car. I know...cost, right? But brakes are consumables and a track pad will grind up rotors quicker anyways. With a small hydraulic mid-rise lift in the garage, I can do all four rotors and pads in 50 minutes once the car is off the ground, so it was not a big time-eater for me.

 

Insightful, thank you. I'm going to attempt to do it myself too. Have the caliper spreader and Pagid Racing RSL29 on the way 😳

 

Ordered these, thank you

 

make sure you follow the recommend bedding procedure. Pagid's are notorious for being tricky to bed. They tend to have more pad transfer to the rotor causing brake judder. at least thats been my experience. carl

 

Emotion sells new AP steel rotors with pre-bedded pads. We are at your service anytime.

Mike

 

First time on track in my recently acquired 992 C2S. Attending the local PCA DE event at Hallett raceway. My previous track experience was limited to an exotics rental of a 458 and GTR for background. After two days, the stock pads couldn’t keep up. I believe they melted slightly and transferred quite a bit of material to the rotors. After a few weeks of street driving, the rotors have mostly cleaned up.

I’m slightly disappointed that the stock brakes couldn’t keep up. Been researching the issue and possible solutions ever since. Frequent changing of pads on the stock calipers seems like a bad idea unless you convert to studs and flexible brake line. I would have never assumed that I would want aftermarket calipers on this car but am considering the AP kit now.

 

Porsche brakes are normally adequate for 90% of the time. However, a few instances when you track the car, it exceeds the parameter of the brake rotor/pad combo. Before you go that route in swapping calipers and pads, you might want to just flush our brake fluids and try to really bed-in your rotor/pad combo. Different driving styles also have a bearing on how your brakes perform. There are drivers even on the track that barely use their brakes and there are others trying to slam on their brakes on every corner trying to out-brake everyone.

 

With all due respect to your driving capabilities, I seriously doubt the brakes are not keeping up. I have the same car as you, been an HPDE Instructor since 1996 with probably 200 track days under my belt, and the brakes on my car at the track are perfectly adequate. It's extremely difficult to exceed the braking capability of 992 S "Big Reds" on stock passenger car rubber. If you were on R Compound Tires and in a top level driving group, then maybe - but even then I have found they are adequate. The solution is not to change out to an AP type of kit, it's to buy a dedicated set of track rotors and more aggressive pad, then you swap them out with your streeties in the garage the night before the event (takes about 1 hour once the car is off the ground). The stock calipers are up to the job - put some fresh Motul or ATE brake fluid in the system and I can pretty much guarantee you that you will be good to go.

Brakes are consumables, expect to replace them regularly if doing track days. Also, wheel studs and flexible brake lines do nothing for you. You go to the track, you wear the pads. Consumables.

After you buy R-Comp Tires and s spare set of wheels, then you can buy one new set of rotors, mark them for each corner. RR RL FL FR and same with the pads. Keep them matched. Hawk or Pagid racing pads will work. The pads will bed to those rotors and be your track set. They will be dirty, and noisy and squeal / rattle until they get hot. If you need more than R- Comps and Racing Pads in stock calipers, then it's time for your SCCA License, a car with 6-points, racing seat and cage.

 

you are probably right about my driving abilities. I do believe it’s easier to out drive the stock pads than you think. The calipers would be fine except they are not designed with frequent pad swaps in mind.

The studs are for the calipers and the flexible lines are to replace the hardline at the caliper. Hardlines are great except I would need to bleed the brakes for every pad swap.


I probably won’t “need” the braking capability of the AP calipers but we’ll engineered parts are my jam.

 

One never needs to bleed the brakes with a pad swap, the fluid is sealed. Flexible lines are never more desirable than fixed lines. Afraid you have some bad information somewhere.