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Question on changing to winter tires and wheels?

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Old 10-30-2020, 03:40 PM
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F250to911
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Question Question on changing to winter tires and wheels?

I have a new 992 and I am going to change out my summer tires and wheels for 4 new winter tire and wheels. However, before I did anything I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with this and if there are any tips or gotchas.

Are there special places where the jack should be placed when elevating the car for a wheel change?

Is there anything tricky about getting the tpms sensors to connect to the 992 PCM?

Any info provided would be appreciated.
Old 10-30-2020, 04:31 PM
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gcurnew
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The jacking point locations are in the owners manual, but also really easy to see behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels. You'll need a low-profile jack, and many of us use a hockey puck on the jack pad cradle to prevent metal-on-metal contact at the jacking point. Swapping wheels is dramatically easier if you use a wheel mounting guide bolt (here's a link to the item on Suncoast site).

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99957107430.html

Using one means you can hang the wheel/tire on the bolt while lining up the other holes; I use three as it ensures perfect alignment of the other two holes, which I snug hand-tight before removing the guide bolt/hangars. Without hangars, you need to hold the wheels up with one arm (and a leg) while simultaneously perfectly lining up the holes and threading the bolt.

Make sure you "crack" the nuts before lifting the car, and 992 wheel torque spec is 118 lb/ft. Once finished go into the PCM and select Winter Wheels (either 18" or 19") and drive the car for a bit (a couple of minutes at most) to enable the system to relearn/recalibrate.

Last edited by gcurnew; 10-30-2020 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 10-30-2020, 04:37 PM
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perfect instruction
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:15 PM
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Thanks for the info gcurnew. It is very much appreciated.

Old 10-30-2020, 07:23 PM
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You're most welcome...
Old 10-30-2020, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gcurnew
The jacking point locations are in the owners manual, but also really easy to see behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels. You'll need a low-profile jack, and many of us use a hockey puck on the jack pad cradle to prevent metal-on-metal contact at the jacking point. Swapping wheels is dramatically easier if you use a wheel mounting guide bolt (here's a link to the item on Suncoast site).

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99957107430.html

Using one means you can hang the wheel/tire on the bolt while lining up the other holes; I use three as it ensures perfect alignment of the other two holes, which I snug hand-tight before removing the guide bolt/hangars. Without hangars, you need to hold the wheels up with one arm (and a leg) while simultaneously perfectly lining up the holes and threading the bolt.

Make sure you "crack" the nuts before lifting the car, and 992 wheel torque spec is 118 lb/ft. Once finished go into the PCM and select Winter Wheels (either 18" or 19") and drive the car for a bit (a couple of minutes at most) to enable the system to relearn/recalibrate.


I like the security of a real lift. It also makes it much easier to do oil changes yourself.
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Old 10-30-2020, 08:26 PM
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Great advice from gcurnew. I swap out winter wheels/tires on three cars, so the seasonal routine is a chore. Along with the wheel stud pilot pins, I use a Gaither Wheel Dolly which both raises and allows rotation of the wheel to line up over the pins, saving my back. Wheel dolly is about $180 at:

https://www.alltiresupply.com/produc...nt=16347562373

Sometimes I still forget to crack to lug bolts before I lift...dang.



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Old 10-31-2020, 01:03 AM
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Richard_Wallace
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Originally Posted by gcurnew
The jacking point locations are in the owners manual, but also really easy to see behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels. You'll need a low-profile jack, and many of us use a hockey puck on the jack pad cradle to prevent metal-on-metal contact at the jacking point. Swapping wheels is dramatically easier if you use a wheel mounting guide bolt (here's a link to the item on Suncoast site).

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99957107430.html

Using one means you can hang the wheel/tire on the bolt while lining up the other holes; I use three as it ensures perfect alignment of the other two holes, which I snug hand-tight before removing the guide bolt/hangars. Without hangars, you need to hold the wheels up with one arm (and a leg) while simultaneously perfectly lining up the holes and threading the bolt.

Make sure you "crack" the nuts before lifting the car, and 992 wheel torque spec is 118 lb/ft. Once finished go into the PCM and select Winter Wheels (either 18" or 19") and drive the car for a bit (a couple of minutes at most) to enable the system to relearn/recalibrate.
I also follow this, and use the suncoast wheel bolt guide. Though not as necessary if you do not have CCB, but makes it a lot easier for sure. Cheap tool that makes it way easier. I only use one with my iron breaks, and it helps at ton, 2 or 3 as mentioned makes it easier - but one is all you need. If you have Carbon Ceramic Breaks, I would go the 2 or 3 route so not to damage your rotors. I can change mine in less than an hour by myself, so not a huge deal. (I typically take 2 hours, cause I then do a deep cleaning of my wheels I take off, so depending on your OCD - could take longer :-) )

I also store mine on a wheel dolly - pic below:



One correction - you select 19/20 or 20/21 inch, not 18" as that is not an option.



Last edited by Richard_Wallace; 10-31-2020 at 01:10 AM.
Old 10-31-2020, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard_Wallace
One correction - you select 19/20 or 20/21 inch, not 18" as that is not an option.
Correct...18" or 19" was on previous Porsches I owned. Still not used to the fact that the 19/20s are the SMALL wheels lol.
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Old 11-26-2021, 12:04 AM
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I am about to do this. Do you just jack up one side at a time? The
Old 11-27-2021, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbowz
I am about to do this. Do you just jack up one side at a time? The
I have a full lift in my garage and do it that way, but you can just do one at a time...
Old 11-29-2021, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gcurnew
The jacking point locations are in the owners manual, but also really easy to see behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels. You'll need a low-profile jack, and many of us use a hockey puck on the jack pad cradle to prevent metal-on-metal contact at the jacking point. Swapping wheels is dramatically easier if you use a wheel mounting guide bolt (here's a link to the item on Suncoast site).

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99957107430.html

Using one means you can hang the wheel/tire on the bolt while lining up the other holes; I use three as it ensures perfect alignment of the other two holes, which I snug hand-tight before removing the guide bolt/hangars. Without hangars, you need to hold the wheels up with one arm (and a leg) while simultaneously perfectly lining up the holes and threading the bolt.

Make sure you "crack" the nuts before lifting the car, and 992 wheel torque spec is 118 lb/ft. Once finished go into the PCM and select Winter Wheels (either 18" or 19") and drive the car for a bit (a couple of minutes at most) to enable the system to relearn/recalibrate.
FYI I just made the switch and the hockey puck I used previously on my 991 Carrera will not work on the new car, due to the "T" shaped end that inserted into the jack point. I am sure that there are better options...



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