BND

Ignore the opinions of old age pensioners on here. Get the wheels engineered and built correctly by Vossen, HRE etc with the right offsets and right tires to maintain close enough to factory overall diameter. It's a sports car, you might notice minimal change in ride comfort but if that was your dominant concern why buy the car in the first place.

Lvanpelt729

You should definitely do it. The bigger the better. Won't affect ride quality at all.

rumnyc

do it. we are waiting for pics and feedback. but my only suggestion is stay staggered (F21/R22) to keep similar balance but i am no expert....

Dan Nagy

Love this shot.

Farmlyf

Yep I’ve got 21” HRE R101 LW optioned up and ready to order but wanted to explore all options and specs before committing as I’ve noticed other 992’s now fitting 21/22” wheels.

BND, it’s a reasonable concern that increasing the wheel spec by 1” may heavily impact the ride quality. If it’s was marginal or minimal then different story but that’s not the question I asked. I think many would agree it’s a reasonable concern to ask that of any car before spending over $20k+ on aftermarket wheels. You almost sound like the last guy...“buy a wrx” lol

Amazing how asking are a simple and honest question can attract so many D$&k heads haha good stuff guys, keep it up....And thank you to those that actually use the forum to give back something constructive.

gcurnew

There's a noticeable increase in stiffness going from the 19/20 setup to 20/21. Expect that there will be additional harshness added going to 21/22. To maintain OE rolling circumference +- 3% (generally accepted maximum percentage change) and not throw off traction control and other chassis systems, you'll need to drop the aspect ratio in front to 30 and the rear to 25. Cars in photos also look like they've been dropped...if you keep circumference and width (245 F; 305 R) of 21/22 wheel/tire setup same as 20/21, they won't rub and actually won't even fill the fender wells any different; just less tire and more wheel.

Kermit_the_Frog

Jepp, handling suffers. Bigger wheels mean more weight at the outer rim which equals much greater forces needed and that equals worse acceleration, braking, turn-in.

Loose once weight at the wheel and you know instantly why weight matters so much when it comes to wheels.

politeperson

This mans has built cars that people pay £25 million for. He knows a thing or two about wheel sizes.

Have a listen to what he has to say 3m 20 second in to the film on the subject.

Cheshi143

Great watch, but the point was that the wheel size HE chose was specific to HIS car that HE designed.

Farmlyf

HRE R101 LW

19 x 9.5 ET22 = 16.7 lbs
19 x 11 ET43 = 17.6 lbs
20 x 8.5 = 17.8 lbs
20 x 9.5 = 17.4 lbs
20 x 10 = 18.4 lbs
20 x 11 = 18.4 lbs
20 x 12 = 19.4 lbs
21 x 12.5 = 22.2 lbs

so technically this should improve my performance if anything right? Anyone got any idea what OEM wheels weigh in at?

Cheshi143

Probably more than 20 pounds for the rear and 16.7 pounds for the front.

Using the Michelin PS4S as tire benchmark, OEM 19" front size (245/40-19) is 23 pounds, OEM 20" rear size (295/35-20) is 30 pounds. Compare that to a 21" front (235/30-21) at 23 pounds and a 22" rear (295/25-22) at 30 pounds. The weight for the tires is a complete wash.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ndard%20Brakes

Farmlyf

The net result with these particular wheels is that I’ll be dropping significant weight per corner over the factory setup. That should technically improve how they car feels and handles yes?

Taking into consideration im lowering my tire profile and maintaining overall diameter on a larger rim size.

Cheshi143

I would use the term "improves how the car feels and handles" loosely as this is subjective to the end user and each and every one of us have different tastes. You can absolutely guarantee that the ride is going to be a bit more harsh (harsh is a true technical term) which comes from the acronym NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). To swap up to a 21" wheel in the front and 22" wheel in the rear, you have to reduce the aspect ratio of the tire by 5%. Hence dropping by number of 5. Less sidewall always increases harshness, vibration and sometimes noise (depends on the tread pattern and the amount of tire wear).

Will it look good? The photos above speak for themselves, however every one of those cars are lowered because if you just do it on the OEM height, it will look unbalanced.

Farmlyf

Leaning towards the standard 20”/21” setup more but would still like to know if anyone has had any experience with light weight forged wheels? A few people have mentioned that the HRE LW’s drop an average of about 7-9 pounds per wheel over the factory setup.

What were main improvements? How did the car feel on lighter rolling stock?

My reason for the questions is the light weight options in general cost considerably more and I’m not planing on track the car at all. So if they were the mainly track related benefits I’d probably opted for a Non-LW wheel.

BND

Had forged monoblock Vossen's on last car and forged monoblock HRE's on car before that - so was trying to be encouraging and make the case for doing it right. You obviously didn't listen, have no experience and no interest in listening to those who do.