NVRANUF

Unless working on wheels, tires, brakes etc I've found ramps work well for exhaust and oil work.

ER911S

is that the one?
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ack-64545.html
I have a height issue with the current one I have.
By the way, thanks for your instructions. I assume you need to have a friend that can reset the maintenance light

Bluehighways

Yes, that’s the one I’ve been using. Get a Hockey Puck to place between the Jack and the Jacking Points on the car and a couple of Jack Stands for safety and you’ll be all set.
My 10K “Free” Oil Change is coming up and the dealer will reset the Maintenance Minder at that time. I’ve already changed my oil and filter twice at 2K and then again at 5K. Didn’t see any reason to reset the Maintenance Minder with the “Free” dealer oil change coming up in 10K. Now . . . going forward, I’m hoping that one or more of the Scan Tool companies will come out with a version that works on the 992’s before I hit 20K miles. If not, I’ll probably need to pay a dealer to reset the system after I do the oil change. Something I am loath to do.

BKAT

I prefer not using ramps for an oil change because after I pull the drain plug, I like to rest the vehicle level again as it drains. Once drained, I jack it back up and reinstall the plug. Besides, there’s always a risk of overshooting the ramp or not driving up them evenly in addition to low clearance body molding scraping or pushing the ramps

NVRANUF

I use both methods depending on the job in hand. Jacking works well, just be careful of jack and stand pressure points.
All body valence rubbing is eliminated by 2x4s placed pre-ramp as shown in the above pics. As for complete draining, ramp vs rear only jacked up, either way forces oil to the front of the pan where the plug is, allowing for max drainage. I have my floor marked for ramp placement, allowing even positioning every time.
As for overshooting, that's on you, LOL!! After a few times it becomes second nature.