Tracking the 992 Turbo
#61
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Tumbleweed (03-13-2021)
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#65
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It varies from car to car, by shop, by equipment, and by technician. Generally, the negative camber from the factory is about -.75 degrees. Ideally, your shop can find -2 degrees front and back, although if they can find as close to -2.5 degrees in the front, I've found that to be best.
#66
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I've gotten a couple of private messages asking about brake fluid and tire pressures, so I thought I'd post my recent reply here for newer drivers: Do I need to change brake fluid before I track the car, and what tire pressure should I go out on track with??
Congrats on the new car! It should be a sweetheart on track. As an intermediate driver, you are probably not threshold braking near the limit just yet, and the OEM fluid is not too bad. By the time those PS4 tires are worn out, it will be about time to switch over to Castrol SRF fluid, but I'm sure you are OK for now. The grippier the tires, the more brake force you can generate, so do upgrade brake fluid before you switch over to Cup2 265/325 tires. If you did feel the brake peddle start to get mushy, just back off a tad and end your session. I doubt you will experience that, so don't let it be in your head. Where I track, mostly VIR, on both the front and back straight I'm hitting 165/175mph then smoothly but violently slowing to 48-50mph for the turn at the end of the straight. Brakes become important, right?
For the cold tire pressure, I leave the paddock at 26psi all the way around the car. (On a very cold winter day, I may start out at 24-25psi and do an extra, extra gentle warmup lap) The first lap should be at a moderate but not race pace, and the second lap will be a little harder but still not full attack mode. I keep my TPMS screen on during the session and when the tires are at 30psi I drive as hard as I can. When they start getting over 35psi, I start to back off and end the session, even if there is a lot of time left. If you hit 36psi early in the session, it would be OK to come back in the paddock and bleed some pressure down to 33psi hot and get back out ASAP. Have your tire pressure gauge nearby in the paddock so that process can be as quick as possible if you do pit for a tire pressure adjustment.
After the first session, as soon as I come off track, I bleed the tire pressures to 33psi, and then before I go back out for the next session I make sure they are still above 26psi after sitting. (It's more of an art form and there are more variations for different conditions, but these are my general rules of thumb.) Goal 1: keep tires in a zone that is as safe and fast as possible. Goal 2: Have as much confidence in my tires as possible. I just want to know they are in a position to do their job without issues. I'm a mental case, so I have to check all the boxes before I can really let her rip.
One other thing, I leave the TPMS screen on, but don't be surprised if it tells you tire pressures are too low. Just very quickly glance to make sure you don't have a tire that is going down (below the 26psi you started with) and then dismiss the warning and get back to driving the car!!! You will get plenty of those low pressure warnings, but they are referenced against "street" pressures, not track.
Good luck, have fun, be safe! Let us know how it goes, too.
Congrats on the new car! It should be a sweetheart on track. As an intermediate driver, you are probably not threshold braking near the limit just yet, and the OEM fluid is not too bad. By the time those PS4 tires are worn out, it will be about time to switch over to Castrol SRF fluid, but I'm sure you are OK for now. The grippier the tires, the more brake force you can generate, so do upgrade brake fluid before you switch over to Cup2 265/325 tires. If you did feel the brake peddle start to get mushy, just back off a tad and end your session. I doubt you will experience that, so don't let it be in your head. Where I track, mostly VIR, on both the front and back straight I'm hitting 165/175mph then smoothly but violently slowing to 48-50mph for the turn at the end of the straight. Brakes become important, right?
For the cold tire pressure, I leave the paddock at 26psi all the way around the car. (On a very cold winter day, I may start out at 24-25psi and do an extra, extra gentle warmup lap) The first lap should be at a moderate but not race pace, and the second lap will be a little harder but still not full attack mode. I keep my TPMS screen on during the session and when the tires are at 30psi I drive as hard as I can. When they start getting over 35psi, I start to back off and end the session, even if there is a lot of time left. If you hit 36psi early in the session, it would be OK to come back in the paddock and bleed some pressure down to 33psi hot and get back out ASAP. Have your tire pressure gauge nearby in the paddock so that process can be as quick as possible if you do pit for a tire pressure adjustment.
After the first session, as soon as I come off track, I bleed the tire pressures to 33psi, and then before I go back out for the next session I make sure they are still above 26psi after sitting. (It's more of an art form and there are more variations for different conditions, but these are my general rules of thumb.) Goal 1: keep tires in a zone that is as safe and fast as possible. Goal 2: Have as much confidence in my tires as possible. I just want to know they are in a position to do their job without issues. I'm a mental case, so I have to check all the boxes before I can really let her rip.
One other thing, I leave the TPMS screen on, but don't be surprised if it tells you tire pressures are too low. Just very quickly glance to make sure you don't have a tire that is going down (below the 26psi you started with) and then dismiss the warning and get back to driving the car!!! You will get plenty of those low pressure warnings, but they are referenced against "street" pressures, not track.
Good luck, have fun, be safe! Let us know how it goes, too.
Last edited by Randyc151; 03-19-2021 at 08:21 AM.
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#68
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Great advice. Is there any way to "pin" it for easy reference?
#70
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Tumbleweed (03-27-2021)
#71
Burning Brakes
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#72
Burning Brakes
I've gotten a couple of private messages asking about brake fluid and tire pressures, so I thought I'd post my recent reply here for newer drivers: Do I need to change brake fluid before I track the car, and what tire pressure should I go out on track with??
Congrats on the new car! It should be a sweetheart on track. As an intermediate driver, you are probably not threshold braking near the limit just yet, and the OEM fluid is not too bad. By the time those PS4 tires are worn out, it will be about time to switch over to Castrol SRF fluid, but I'm sure you are OK for now. The grippier the tires, the more brake force you can generate, so do upgrade brake fluid before you switch over to Cup2 265/325 tires. If you did feel the brake peddle start to get mushy, just back off a tad and end your session. I doubt you will experience that, so don't let it be in your head. Where I track, mostly VIR, on both the front and back straight I'm hitting 165/175mph then smoothly but violently slowing to 48-50mph for the turn at the end of the straight. Brakes become important, right?
For the cold tire pressure, I leave the paddock at 26psi all the way around the car. (On a very cold winter day, I may start out at 24-25psi and do an extra, extra gentle warmup lap) The first lap should be at a moderate but not race pace, and the second lap will be a little harder but still not full attack mode. I keep my TPMS screen on during the session and when the tires are at 30psi I drive as hard as I can. When they start getting over 35psi, I start to back off and end the session, even if there is a lot of time left. If you hit 36psi early in the session, it would be OK to come back in the paddock and bleed some pressure down to 33psi hot and get back out ASAP. Have your tire pressure gauge nearby in the paddock so that process can be as quick as possible if you do pit for a tire pressure adjustment.
After the first session, as soon as I come off track, I bleed the tire pressures to 33psi, and then before I go back out for the next session I make sure they are still above 26psi after sitting. (It's more of an art form and there are more variations for different conditions, but these are my general rules of thumb.) Goal 1: keep tires in a zone that is as safe and fast as possible. Goal 2: Have as much confidence in my tires as possible. I just want to know they are in a position to do their job without issues. I'm a mental case, so I have to check all the boxes before I can really let her rip.
One other thing, I leave the TPMS screen on, but don't be surprised if it tells you tire pressures are too low. Just very quickly glance to make sure you don't have a tire that is going down (below the 26psi you started with) and then dismiss the warning and get back to driving the car!!! You will get plenty of those low pressure warnings, but they are referenced against "street" pressures, not track.
Good luck, have fun, be safe! Let us know how it goes, too.
Congrats on the new car! It should be a sweetheart on track. As an intermediate driver, you are probably not threshold braking near the limit just yet, and the OEM fluid is not too bad. By the time those PS4 tires are worn out, it will be about time to switch over to Castrol SRF fluid, but I'm sure you are OK for now. The grippier the tires, the more brake force you can generate, so do upgrade brake fluid before you switch over to Cup2 265/325 tires. If you did feel the brake peddle start to get mushy, just back off a tad and end your session. I doubt you will experience that, so don't let it be in your head. Where I track, mostly VIR, on both the front and back straight I'm hitting 165/175mph then smoothly but violently slowing to 48-50mph for the turn at the end of the straight. Brakes become important, right?
For the cold tire pressure, I leave the paddock at 26psi all the way around the car. (On a very cold winter day, I may start out at 24-25psi and do an extra, extra gentle warmup lap) The first lap should be at a moderate but not race pace, and the second lap will be a little harder but still not full attack mode. I keep my TPMS screen on during the session and when the tires are at 30psi I drive as hard as I can. When they start getting over 35psi, I start to back off and end the session, even if there is a lot of time left. If you hit 36psi early in the session, it would be OK to come back in the paddock and bleed some pressure down to 33psi hot and get back out ASAP. Have your tire pressure gauge nearby in the paddock so that process can be as quick as possible if you do pit for a tire pressure adjustment.
After the first session, as soon as I come off track, I bleed the tire pressures to 33psi, and then before I go back out for the next session I make sure they are still above 26psi after sitting. (It's more of an art form and there are more variations for different conditions, but these are my general rules of thumb.) Goal 1: keep tires in a zone that is as safe and fast as possible. Goal 2: Have as much confidence in my tires as possible. I just want to know they are in a position to do their job without issues. I'm a mental case, so I have to check all the boxes before I can really let her rip.
One other thing, I leave the TPMS screen on, but don't be surprised if it tells you tire pressures are too low. Just very quickly glance to make sure you don't have a tire that is going down (below the 26psi you started with) and then dismiss the warning and get back to driving the car!!! You will get plenty of those low pressure warnings, but they are referenced against "street" pressures, not track.
Good luck, have fun, be safe! Let us know how it goes, too.
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4seater (02-26-2023)
#73
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Brakes update:
Next up, I traded emails with Jeff at Essex, the distributor for AP racing and Ferrodo pads. They are in the same boat - ready to start designing rotor options, pad options, and caliper replacement options as soon as they can get a car in for measurements, and back for test fitment. Anybody near Charlotte, NC that can lend their car for the collective good?
Bottom line, we're probably 6-8 months away from having a replacement "track" solution for the 992 TTS, which is fine. The current PCCB rotors can easily do a season without wearing them out, but just be sure to replace those pads when they hit 6mm thickness...no need to take a chance on going thinner than that. I ruined two 991 TTS PCCB rotors a few years ago when they measured 4mm right before I went on track. Not worth it.
Next up, I traded emails with Jeff at Essex, the distributor for AP racing and Ferrodo pads. They are in the same boat - ready to start designing rotor options, pad options, and caliper replacement options as soon as they can get a car in for measurements, and back for test fitment. Anybody near Charlotte, NC that can lend their car for the collective good?
Bottom line, we're probably 6-8 months away from having a replacement "track" solution for the 992 TTS, which is fine. The current PCCB rotors can easily do a season without wearing them out, but just be sure to replace those pads when they hit 6mm thickness...no need to take a chance on going thinner than that. I ruined two 991 TTS PCCB rotors a few years ago when they measured 4mm right before I went on track. Not worth it.
I wanted to provide an update. A generous customer of ours let us borrow his 992 Turbo S for a couple days, and we are off and running on a complete AP Racing by Essex Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit for the 992 Turbo/S. For those of you who aren't familiar with our Radi-CAL solutions, here is a thread from the 991 GT3 section of Rennlist that discusses the technical our kit, has lots of owner feedback, etc.: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...t-finally.html
Just as we do for the 991 GT cars, our solution for the 992 Turbo will have a wide range of performance, convenience, and long-term cost benefits vs. the OEM brakes. A few points:
- Our initial analysis also allows us to predict that our complete caliper/iron disc package will weigh either at parity, or possibly even slightly less than the OEM PCCB brake system. That means you won't have to install ridiculously heavy iron discs in the OEM PCCB sizes and add a bunch of unsprung weight to an already, ahem, husky car. (we scaled the Turbo S we measured at 3,567 lbs. with 5/8 tank of fuel).
- Our system will allow for the use of 19" wheels. That means less unsprung wheel weight, increased tire choices, etc.
- Our system will use the common pad shapes that our other systems all use, which typically retail between $300-$500 per set in race compounds from most manufacturers.
- Unlike the OEM system which requires removal of the caliper and disconnecting the brake line, our system will allow pad swaps without removing the caliper (see the video below)
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
#74
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Hi Randy,
I wanted to provide an update. A generous customer of ours let us borrow his 992 Turbo S for a couple days, and we are off and running on a complete AP Racing by Essex Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit for the 992 Turbo/S. For those of you who aren't familiar with our Radi-CAL solutions, here is a thread from the 991 GT3 section of Rennlist that discusses the technical our kit, has lots of owner feedback, etc.: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...t-finally.html
Just as we do for the 991 GT cars, our solution for the 992 Turbo will have a wide range of performance, convenience, and long-term cost benefits vs. the OEM brakes. A few points:
I wanted to provide an update. A generous customer of ours let us borrow his 992 Turbo S for a couple days, and we are off and running on a complete AP Racing by Essex Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit for the 992 Turbo/S. For those of you who aren't familiar with our Radi-CAL solutions, here is a thread from the 991 GT3 section of Rennlist that discusses the technical our kit, has lots of owner feedback, etc.: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...t-finally.html
Just as we do for the 991 GT cars, our solution for the 992 Turbo will have a wide range of performance, convenience, and long-term cost benefits vs. the OEM brakes. A few points:
- Our initial analysis also allows us to predict that our complete caliper/iron disc package will weigh either at parity, or possibly even slightly less than the OEM PCCB brake system. That means you won't have to install ridiculously heavy iron discs in the OEM PCCB sizes and add a bunch of unsprung weight to an already, ahem, husky car. (we scaled the Turbo S we measured at 3,567 lbs. with 5/8 tank of fuel).
- Our system will allow for the use of 19" wheels. That means less unsprung wheel weight, increased tire choices, etc.
- Our system will use the common pad shapes that our other systems all use, which typically retail between $300-$500 per set in race compounds from most manufacturers.
- Unlike the OEM system which requires removal of the caliper and disconnecting the brake line, our system will allow pad swaps without removing the caliper (see the video below)
Also, exactly what pad size? What Ferrodo pads will work with this setup - DS3.12?
Last edited by Randyc151; 03-28-2021 at 11:12 AM.
#75
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Click the front or rear kits to see the details for each:
https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...RS/Iron%20Disc
On the 992 Turbo we will likely use a disc that is a slightly different size...probably our 390x36mm. This is the disc we're using for cars like the Nissan GT-R. It has a little more thermal mass vs. the disc we use for the GT3. The Turbo is obviously considerably more powerful, and we expect most of our track customers will be turning up the boost a bit as well. The added mass of the car itself vs. the GT3 is also a good reason to supply a little more heat capacity. Our 390x36mm discs weigh about 3 lbs. more each vs. our 394x34mm discs, mainly due to thicker disc walls. That allows them to better withstand a bigger first slug of energy on those super heavy stops from high speeds.
We now need to finalize our design, produce prototypes, test fit them to a car, then begin the first production run. Since there isn't anything wildly new about this kit in terms of what we've done in the past for other 911 models (and other cars), I don't expect any major hiccups. I'd estimate that we'll be shipping production parts by the end of June. We will likely open up pre-orders beforehand. First in line will be the first to get their kits. We fulfill orders in the sequence that they are placed with us.
Pads
In terms of pads, we will have the usual suspects from Ferodo...DS3.12, DS1.11, DS2500, and others. Depending on the manufacturer, pad prices range from about $300-$600 per set on the front and $200-$350 on the rear.
Front shape= FRP3144
Rear shape= FRP216
The pad shapes we use in these calipers were designed by AP Racing many years ago. Most of the major pad manufacturers make variants of their pads in these pad shapes. We have yet to hear a single client tell us they couldn't get a good set of road or race pads for our calipers. Our suggested solution would be Ferodo DS2500 for sport/light duty use, and the DS1.11 or DS3.12 for track use. If you're on street tires, the DS1.11 is likely the better choice. If you're running stickies, DS3.12 is a great option.
With the purchase of our kit we include a set of subsidized Ferodo pads in your choice of compound. The first set of Ferodo pads would be $225 front and $200 rear in any compound.
Weight savings
- Our CP9661 Radi-CAL caliper weighs 6.1 lbs., whereas the front 10 piston OEM Turbo S caliper weighs 11.5 lbs. We are at nearly half the weight. Our rear Radi-CAL weighs 4.9 lbs. and the stock rear caliper is 7.5 lbs.
- OEM front carbon ceramic 420mm disc= 17.9 lbs. Our front 390x36mm iron disc= 21.4 lbs. The small weight penalty on the discs is more than offset by the caliper weight savings of
- OEM rear carbon ceramic 390x32mm disc= 13.5 lbs. Our rear 380x32mm iron disc= 15.7 lbs...almost the same thing on the rear...iron disc weight penalty is offset by the lighter AP Racing calipers.
- Overall we should be at nearly a wash on weight, despite going to iron discs. We'll have to see how the weights for the caliper mounting brackets, disc hats, etc. shake out, but based on past experience it's going to be very, very close overall
Here are the rear calipers:
Our system will be as close as one can come to the AP Racing Radi-CAL calipers being run by the Le Mans-winning 911 RSR.
Here are a few videos...first on the Radi-CAL technology, and the other two on our Competition Kits overall.
Last edited by JRitt@essex; 03-29-2021 at 11:20 AM.