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This guy cranks out some top notch tyre reviews....obviously PS2 has its advantages but the margins narrow as soon as you throw some precipitation into the mix.
It is very important to understand that manufacturer spec tires can vary very significantly from their generic versions. In the video you posted, the reviewer is comparing the G8X M3/4 spec PS4S to the G8X M3/4 spec PSC2. The comparison is not necessarily valid for other type of spec or generic tires. The spec PS4S on the M3/4 already has a lot of PSC2 built into it being already 2 seconds faster than the already very good generic PS4S:
It is very important to understand that manufacturer spec tires can vary very significantly from their generic versions. In the video you posted, the reviewer is comparing the G8X M3/4 spec PS4S to the G8X M3/4 spec PSC2. The comparison is not necessarily valid for other type of spec or generic tires. The spec PS4S on the M3/4 already has a lot of PSC2 built into it being already 2 seconds faster than the already very good generic PS4S:
Is there a way to not have the TPMS not be red with a locked screen when you run lower tire pressures for the track? Once you raise the pressures back & drive a lot the screen returns to normal but while at the track the screen is locked so I can't look at any data such as engine temps, etc. Thanks everyone!
Is there a way to not have the TPMS not be red with a locked screen when you run lower tire pressures for the track? Once you raise the pressures back & drive a lot the screen returns to normal but while at the track the screen is locked so I can't look at any data such as engine temps, etc. Thanks everyone!
If you press the "Back" button on the steering wheel (G on image below) to "acknowledge the warning", it allows you to use the display again.
Next time I'm at the track, I will try to set the TPMS to the "Comfort" setting in hopes of avoiding the constant low pressure warnings
Thanks CanAutM3. Too simple I didn't think of it. Also the low fuel warning comes on even with a third of a tank of fuel still since it is predicting by your track mpg. It would be cool if Porsche had a track feature that would set the TPMS, fuel prediction, etc to a track mode.
Set the TPMS to "comfort" and "Summer Tires" and the warning will still come on. Dismiss it on track, as described above, and keep driving. It's not unusual to get TPMS and low fuel warnings (at 1/2 tank!) so you have to get good at quickly scanning them and dismissing them. Look for tire pressures to be dropping below when you started to detect a tire going down - otherwise don't worry until they get too hot.
It's meaningless to compare the brake rotor weight w/o relating to the Volumetric Heat Capacity (CP,v , J⋅cm−3⋅K−1) which is the amount heat that must be added to "one unit of mass" of the substance in order to cause an increase of "one unit in temperature". As a substance of an iron therefore, the heavier of a rotor the more of it's heat capacity and conversely the lighter a rotor the less of its heat capacity.
Only the volume of a rotor can truly represent it's weight, not the dimensions that customary used in expressing a rotor size (eg diameter x thickness - 390x36mm), for example you can make rotors with the same external dimensions but with variable friction plate thickness (A), and annulus (B) to achieve different "volume" and result in various rotor weights and heat capacity.
To make the evaluation more specific and meaningful, the weight comparison shall base on the same material - Iron (not CCM) and construction - 2pc w/aluminum hat and iron disc (not 1pc)
And here is a filtered result on 390x36mm iron rotors out of our some 700+ two piece rotor kits.
These are OE rotor sizes for heavy and fast muscle cars with hundreds of thousands of vehicles, and spans decades of applications, so the data sample shall be sufficient to support my question on how sound for a "same size" of rotor made to 25% lighter, so that consumers (not for professional racers or alike) can better evaluate a brake set up (rotor, pad size and heat factor) than just the rotor weight.
Rotor weight reduction is at the cost of losing its heat capacity and will run hotter at the same ratio, i.e. a 21 lbs rotor runs at 500C vs. a 28 lbs rotor at 400C - It's the fundamental science.
It's meaningless to compare the brake rotor weight w/o relating to the Volumetric Heat Capacity (CP,v , J⋅cm−3⋅K−1) which is the amount heat that must be added to "one unit of mass" of the substance in order to cause an increase of "one unit in temperature". As a substance of an iron therefore, the heavier of a rotor the more of it's heat capacity and conversely the lighter a rotor the less of its heat capacity.
Only the volume of a rotor can truly represent it's weight, not the dimensions that customary used in expressing a rotor size (eg diameter x thickness - 390x36mm), for example you can make rotors with the same external dimensions but with variable friction plate thickness (A), and annulus (B) to achieve different "volume" and result in various rotor weights and heat capacity.
To make the evaluation more specific and meaningful, the weight comparison shall base on the same material - Iron (not CCM) and construction - 2pc w/aluminum hat and iron disc (not 1pc)
And here is a filtered result on 390x36mm iron rotors out of our some 700+ two piece rotor kits.
These are OE rotor sizes for heavy and fast muscle cars with hundreds of thousands of vehicles, and spans decades of applications, so the data sample shall be sufficient to support my question on how sound for a "same size" of rotor made to 25% lighter, so that consumers (not for professional racers or alike) can better evaluate a brake set up (rotor, pad size and heat factor) than just the rotor weight.
Rotor weight reduction is at the cost of losing its heat capacity and will run hotter at the same ratio, i.e. a 21 lbs rotor runs at 500C vs. a 28 lbs rotor at 400C - It's the fundamental science.
If you limit your analysis to "heat capacity", you limit your understanding of the "fundamental science" behind braking systems...
The brake trick is to get as lightweight a rotor (the spinning part, right?) as you can that has a thermal capacity above your requirements for track. Example, if a 90 pound rotor has a higher thermal capacity and lower operating temp, but it's far above what's needed, then it's no good.
Let's not turn this thread into another PCCB vs Steel thread. There are plenty of those.
The brake trick is to get as lightweight a rotor (the spinning part, right?) as you can that has a thermal capacity above your requirements for track. Example, if a 90 pound rotor has a higher thermal capacity and lower operating temp, but it's far above what's needed, then it's no good.
Let's not turn this thread into another PCCB vs Steel thread. There are plenty of those.
Exactly!
Further, while the thermal capacity is definitely a factor, the heat transfer of the material used and heat shedding capacity of the design of system are even more important factors. Plus, even if the operating temperatures are higher, if the pads are matched to cope with the higher operating temp it is a non-issue. Furthermore, a higher operating temperature means greater heat shedding rate (laws of heat transfer).
Set the TPMS to "comfort" and "Summer Tires" and the warning will still come on. Dismiss it on track, as described above, and keep driving. It's not unusual to get TPMS and low fuel warnings (at 1/2 tank!) so you have to get good at quickly scanning them and dismissing them. Look for tire pressures to be dropping below when you started to detect a tire going down - otherwise don't worry until they get too hot.
While not completely eliminating the warnings, setting the TPMS to comfort at least significantly reduced the frequency of the warning, so a bit less annoying.
Four track days so far in 3 weeks of ownership for me, really enjoying this car so far !!
With the stock PZ4 gone after four days, I installed GT3RS spec PSC2 at the end of last event. Can't wait to try them out at my next event next week. The car feels so much better with them just driving on the street, with the steering more precise and alive with feedback.
We have a collection of 240+ units of OE & Aftermarket fixed piston calipers including 42 units from OE Porsche (Brembo), and 6 units from OE McLaren (AP) and can never find one single caliper that's equipped with such a spring, so I can safely conclude, based on our decades of experience & knowledge in caliper business that this anti knock back spring is not required.
Anyone (including professional racers or alike) with "knock back" issue can rebuild one's OE calipers with RB components, or replace them to RB calipers and see for yourself if such a spring is ever needed.
Hopefully the brake vendor has exhausted themselves and we can get back to track experiences in the 992 TT and TTS? BESIDES BRAKE ROTOR DISCUSSIONS, does anybody have anything new to update us on? How's your 992 doing out there? Anything you've learned?
Hopefully the brake vendor has exhausted themselves and we can get back to track experiences in the 992 TT and TTS? BESIDES BRAKE ROTOR DISCUSSIONS, does anybody have anything new to update us on? How's your 992 doing out there? Anything you've learned?
10 track days so far for me in 6 weeks of ownership. Really loving the dual capability of this car. It is really enjoyable and engaging to drive on track. While it might not offer the purity of a GT3, it makes up for it in daily practicality and comfort. I love the fact that I can drive down from the cottage with our family of 4 with luggage on Sunday and romp the track the next day. I am still working out the tire pressure and alignment optimisation. I wore the stock PZ4 after 4 days and switched to PSC2. I ran too high pressures in the rear and wore them prematurely in 4 days. I increased front camber to -1.8deg which seems to work fine and kept the rear stock, but I think it needs more in the rear and I am bringing it in the shop to set it at -2.5deg this week. PSC2 are working well as a dual use tire being decently fast and predictable on track. I did 6 days with the front and 4 days with the rears. I hope that with better pressure management and alignment I’ll be able to get 6-8 days front and rear. As expected from my previous experience with PSC2, they heat cycle out quite fast, so best laps are achieved early in their life.
06-22-2021, 03:40 PM
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