That's impressive. Talk about using every last drop of pad material.

 

More stupid than impressive but yes I got my money's worth

 

i'm guessing we don't have low pad warning sensor? thanks for sharing! will have to check mine soon.

 

We do. mine are zip tied up out of the way. they'd fry in the first track day

 

i'm sad to report my sensor looks brand new after 2 track days.

 

heh heh. Time will change that I assure you. They won't last more than a day or two at full clip. Then you have to deal with annoying warnings on the dash.

This is really an embarrassing gaffe. Checking brakes and tires after each session, let alone day, is track prep 101.

 

Hi, sorry for interrupting, but as I'm new to 992 platform I need to ask more experienced users...

I have a '25 3RS which I find unstable at higher speeds (let's say >100mph), especially when going off the throttle
I had alignment done in January, and here is what it looks like


and question is... how to proper set toe to get it stable ? all camber eccentrics are maxed out btw
I already ordered camber blocks from cup car to dial front camber at 3.1 and keep rear at 2.7 deg (~2.45min as shown above)
I come from 718 GT4RS which I set at -3.1 /-2.7 camber and 0.00 front toe and +0.26 total rear toe and it handles great, like a train on the rails - but dont know how to set up 3RS properly - and thats why Im here
cheers!

 

Congratulations on the new car.

And yes, you're correct. To add more front camber the camber blocks are the best bet.

The car is sensitive to Toe settings. Especially on the rear axle.

Your "pre" alignment reading showed a significant discrepancy of rear Toe with one side being positive and the other negative.

In general, you should plan on a rear toe of approximately +0.15 to +0.18 per side for a total Toe of 0.30 to 0.36.

That will get you good stability on the track.

As far as front Toe - everyone has their preference for either slightly positive or slightly more negative. But in general it's in the range of 0.02 + or - per side.

By the book you'd want slightly positive Toe in the front. Some other's on track want slightly negative front Toe for easier "turn in" characteristics.

As far as camber: For those of us on track - an aggressive set up is -3.4 Front each side and -2.5 to -2.7 Rear each side.

Hope that this helps.

 

Thank for immediate reply, appreciate it!
pre alignment rear to were different just by 0.04, but 0.16 was just out of range, my first impression was just like Yours, but I realized it after a while
I will leave front as is for now, and set rear axle at 0.30 total - any tricks / tips according to rear axle steering? keep car idling? or on ignition ? on the other hand, just spoken to a friend competing in cup car series and he states 0.14 total rear... tahts totally confusing, or maybe what's enough for cup, isnt for 3RS

 

Your rear toe values are good, 10' = .16 deg, so that's right where it needs to be.

Make sure you have plenty of rake in the car, as the car is sensitive to ride height, and you want to always have factory rake (or more) in the car. Not having enough rake can induce aero instability in the car, since there is considerable amount of anti-dive in the front suspension geometry.
Once that is confirmed, if you still have the car being loose, you then should add some lock to the LSD on the "coast" side, so bump it up to +1 or +2, for more stability when you get off the throttle. That def cures this issue.

 

Good advice on making sure you keep the rake in the car, that can make a huge difference and is often overlooked by shops that don’t work on these regularly.

As for camber, -3.4 is a huge amount. I’ve debated this here quite a bit, but IMHO you’re really doing yourself a disservice running that much and impacting braking by reducing your contact patch. I had a long chat with Manthey when I was at their HQ at the Ring last and they’re very passionate about their setup. They say you might go as far as -2.85 when doing large GP tracks, but no more. I’ve tested 3.5, and I’ve gone through tires very early. I’ve since done 6 sets of tires on the Manthey setup and have zero complaints. Most the guys I know that were running > 3, have come down to where I’m at and appreciate the difference.

 

IMHO, many people are chasing "even tire wear" so they keep adding negative camber to achieve that. The OEM tires are dual compound, the outside is softer so will always wear more rapidly.
Ditto on the Manthey alignment set up, it has served me well.

If you are using slicks then It's a totally different ball game.

 

Yeah, I'm evaluating wear with -3.2 on Nankang/OE tires. Using 28-30 hot front pressures, tire wear indicates I could potentially use a little less for my local tracks.
Next time I align, I may back down to -3 to increase contact patch.

 

I don't know about the Nankang. But optimal pressures on the OE tiers are 27.5/29 f/r, hot.

 

I'm running Hoosier R8's - thus the need for more negative camber in the front.