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Maybe its CF chop, as also used on PCCB, rather than woven fabric. Wouldn't have thought that would make much structural difference.??
Maybe - that part is not under much mechanical stress (aside from the poorly designed threaded insert), so wouldn’t matter. I think they used carbon mostly for lightness and the old metal one was prone to leaks. Also, a molded tank allows them to more easily make a weird shape that was necessary to shoehorn into the GT4 RS…
So I decided to not only break the oil tank bolt loose, but also drain some oil. Not a full change. No filter but just remove and replace what I take out. Seeing as how a change only requires 4qts, now when I go on Wednesday and have them do a full change. I’ll be without a little less original oil. Probably overkill, but I was bored and it’s nice out.
I was going to add witness marks but I noticed the brass fitting has one marked in green and also there’s a small plastic tab poking out above it. I’m assuming that’s part of the carbon tank? Is it possible to use those two markings as a reference point??? @4carl@Grant
So I decided to not only break the oil tank bolt loose, but also drain some oil. Not a full change. No filter but just remove and replace what I take out. Seeing as how a change only requires 4qts, now when I go on Wednesday and have them do a full change. I’ll be without a little less original oil. Probably overkill, but I was bored and it’s nice out.
I was going to add witness marks but I noticed the brass fitting has one marked in green and also there’s a small plastic tab poking out above it. I’m assuming that’s part of the carbon tank? Is it possible to use those two markings as a reference point??? @4carl@Grant
thx
that’s interesting I never noticed it?
What is the production date and engine number of your car?
I’m wondering if you have the updated version or it s on all tanks and I just never noticed it.
Mine had something similar originally, but wore off (or came off when I wiped it down). Yes, feel free to use whatever reference you have to notice any turning of the brass fitting with respect to the tank.
that’s interesting I never noticed it?
What is the production date and engine number of your car?
I’m wondering if you have the updated version or it s on all tanks and I just never noticed it.
Production date 4/22 engine #3039.
After letting it drain for 2 hours I removed exactly 1750ml of oil. Again this is without removing filter. I added the same amount and after checking oil level the bar was exactly where it was before I started.
Tightened the bolt to 10Nm. Feel better knowing it was loosened without issue. I can now wait at the dealer Wednesday and hope it’s a quick change.
After letting it drain for 2 hours I removed exactly 1750ml of oil. Again this is without removing filter. I added the same amount and after checking oil level the bar was exactly where it was before I started.
Tightened the bolt to 10Nm. Feel better knowing it was loosened without issue. I can now wait at the dealer Wednesday and hope it’s a quick change.
Checked mine based on your last post Carl and I am engine 38XX - July 2022 build
This will mean I will never do my own oil, so could be a good thing long run. I'll wait and watch as this develops..
actually, I think you’re better off if you do it yourself then you’ll be sure it was done, right.
The dealer may or may not remove it cold .
As long as you remove the plug cold as the service bulletin says you shouldn’t have any problem.
In addition, put a witness mark on the fitting and oil tank that way you’ll be sure there was no movement.
Is this "change oil cold" "break loose cold" procedure required for the first oil change, or for every oil change? In other words, does the new plug #9GT1156478 somehow address the problem? Thank you all for the good info.
Last edited by datapath; 05-26-2023 at 12:27 AM.
Reason: clarification
05-06-2023, 07:26 PM
