992 GT3 Maintenance Schedule
#2
4 years you’ll do a major service (plugs and filters) - I don’t even know where my manual is, but will try to locate.
Last edited by User 81423; 12-19-2021 at 01:57 AM.
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GrantG (12-21-2021)
#4
Reviving an older thread here. What is the consensus on doing an oil change before the first service interval? Is it a **** if you're not tracking the car or a worthwhile preventative measure at the end of the break in period?
#5
I also believe that the new C40 oil is not as protective of the engine (it’s made to protect the OPF filters and catalytic converters as a high priority), so making sure it’s fresh at least is the minimum I feel I can do for the 4.0 jewel…
Last edited by GrantG; 02-09-2022 at 04:31 PM.
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ColoradoCayenne (02-10-2022),
Daft Chief (02-10-2022)
#6
I would say since you can only drain half the oil now, it’s worth changing more frequently…
I also believe that the new C40 oil is not as protective of the engine (it’s made to protect the OPF filters and catalytic converters as a high priority), so making sure it’s fresh at least is the minimum I feel I can do for the 4.0 jewel…
I also believe that the new C40 oil is not as protective of the engine (it’s made to protect the OPF filters and catalytic converters as a high priority), so making sure it’s fresh at least is the minimum I feel I can do for the 4.0 jewel…
They can tell if you use a different viscosity but going down to the specific zinc and phosphorus levels and pinning it down to C40 vs A40 will require criminal investigation lab level detective work that I dont think they'd do. I'd choose to protect the engine over the cats.
Also, lets say the OPF failed because of A40 and you did put 100,000 miles in 5 years. Who cares? Cut them out and remove them as they are not even monitored in the US In BMW world, lots of people take a saw and simply cut out the internal mesh.
#7
Why wait 100,000 miles to take out the OPF. I kind of want to take them out now.
What are your dealerships charging for the 2nd year maintenance? 1st year is free. Mine is charging $2600. Seems excessive.
What are your dealerships charging for the 2nd year maintenance? 1st year is free. Mine is charging $2600. Seems excessive.
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#8
I was asked to pay $1350 to change the engine air filters in my RS. Just the filters, no oil change, nothing else. I was told $970 for the filters, and 2 hours of labor. I got the filters for $480 from suncoast and changed myself under 30 minutes. Things like PDK fluid or accessory belts (which wont be due for long time anyways) is where you may need a dealer. But these other things, you really have to be either too lazy to learn or just one of those people who dont have the time due to work/family commitments - in which case you have no choice but to pay. Its really an easy car to work on. Everything is so precisely manufactured and comes off/goes on easy.
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K-Nut (10-26-2023)
#9
I hear you. I try to do everything I can myself as well. I did the 2yr maintenance myself on my 991 GT3 - spark plugs, air filter, accessory belt, oil change. Not a big deal. Just have to remove the rear bumper cover. But as part of my deal I had to get the 2yr maintenance through the dealership. Also, when you trade in or sell the car if you have the maintenance records from the dealership it helps to sell the car. And if something really bad happens it helps to have it documented you did the maintenance with the dealership. Too bad they charge an arm and a leg most of the time.
#10
There is no way Porsche can tell you have a C40 vs A40 oil and there is no way you or me will have issues with the cats in our ownership using A40 oil. They need to withstand 8 years/80,000 miles of driving. Who drives their GT3 10,000 miles/year and keep it that long? I would use A40 oil.
They can tell if you use a different viscosity but going down to the specific zinc and phosphorus levels and pinning it down to C40 vs A40 will require criminal investigation lab level detective work that I dont think they'd do. I'd choose to protect the engine over the cats.
Also, lets say the OPF failed because of A40 and you did put 100,000 miles in 5 years. Who cares? Cut them out and remove them as they are not even monitored in the US In BMW world, lots of people take a saw and simply cut out the internal mesh.
They can tell if you use a different viscosity but going down to the specific zinc and phosphorus levels and pinning it down to C40 vs A40 will require criminal investigation lab level detective work that I dont think they'd do. I'd choose to protect the engine over the cats.
Also, lets say the OPF failed because of A40 and you did put 100,000 miles in 5 years. Who cares? Cut them out and remove them as they are not even monitored in the US In BMW world, lots of people take a saw and simply cut out the internal mesh.
#11
#12
I have never seen/heard an engine dying due to extra zinc/phosphorus. Its the same grade, same brand of oil. One is a better oil with better protectants. How can the engine die because of it? If you start using 15w50 when factory calls for 0w40 and kill the cams, fine. But with C40 vs A40? There is no way.
To answer previous poster’s question, technically yes you can tell looking at oil analysis but you’d need to know how many miles on the oil to accurately assess.
I have been into cars for probably 20-25 years now, reading many many MANY forum posts, talking to many people from all kinds of brands working in service. Never I have heard a manufacturer doing oil analysis looking for chemical additives to approve/deny warranty claim.
The reason here with C40 is simple, OPF. And OPF in US do not matter.
To answer previous poster’s question, technically yes you can tell looking at oil analysis but you’d need to know how many miles on the oil to accurately assess.
I have been into cars for probably 20-25 years now, reading many many MANY forum posts, talking to many people from all kinds of brands working in service. Never I have heard a manufacturer doing oil analysis looking for chemical additives to approve/deny warranty claim.
The reason here with C40 is simple, OPF. And OPF in US do not matter.
#13
I'm coming up on my 2 year maintenance, how many of you all here have done it yourself or taken it to an indy as opposed to dealer? Any thoughts on how that might affect resale value?
My dealer is quoting $800 for an oil change - what's everyone paying for maintenance?
My dealer is quoting $800 for an oil change - what's everyone paying for maintenance?
#14
That said, if I was a buyer of a used Porsche, I would prefer to have the maintenance done by a Porsche dealership, then Indy, then by a DIYselfer. But as a guy who owns the cars I trust myself much much more than an Indy or dealership. I always know I replaced all the plugs including that last hard to get to one.
#15
I have been into cars for probably 20-25 years now, reading many many MANY forum posts, talking to many people from all kinds of brands working in service. Never I have heard a manufacturer doing oil analysis looking for chemical additives to approve/deny warranty claim.
Last edited by GrantG; 09-24-2024 at 11:34 AM.