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991.2 Oil Change Procedure (with photos)

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991.2 Oil Change Procedure (with photos)

 
Old 08-19-2017, 02:21 PM
  #61  
Ski Porsche
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I bought a pair of the two piece, 8" Race Ramps then jacked the front up on my Jackpoint stands. It was pretty level with lots of room to maneuver under the car and no bending over the engine cover components to remove them. Perfect!
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:34 PM
  #62  
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Rhino Ramps work just fine at a fraction of the cost of the Race Ramps. I find this method safer than trusting just a jack and getting under the car. Also, I use two jacks in order to lift the car evenly on both sides avoiding excessive stress on one side of the suspension.
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Old 08-23-2017, 01:09 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by trucheli View Post
Rhino Ramps work just fine at a fraction of the cost of the Race Ramps. I find this method safer than trusting just a jack and getting under the car. Also, I use two jacks in order to lift the car evenly on both sides avoiding excessive stress on one side of the suspension.
That'll work. I still like my 3" race ramps under all 4 wheels that I can drive onto--no bother with jacking.
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:09 PM
  #64  
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Default Oil Capacities and Thanks

bkrantz

Superb writeup and details. About to change oil at 2200 miles and while I have PIWIS subscription, photos are great for those who do not.

A few additions:
1) I have the VW drain plug removal tool but the highly advanced tool specified by PIWIS for removing the drain plug is a "relevant washer (e.g. external diameter of 30 mm, max. 2.4 mm thick)".

2) I have not removed the wire connectors yet but if the fasteners used to mount the connectors (and any other wire bundles) are the types that have wings that expand on the underside of the mounting bracket, a 3/32" or 1/4" socket pushed onto the end of the fastener from the back side of the mounting bracket will retract the wings allowing the fastener to be easily withdrawn from the mounting hole with little effort.

3) PIWIS says that a "clean cloth" should be used to clean the inside of the filter housing and then discarded.

4) Most of the oil capacity information provided in the thread is inaccurate so I have attached a PDF with the fill tables from PIWIS (and yes - the 3.8L from the Turbo and Turbo S holds less oil than the 3.0L).

PS - I cannot post PIWIS instructions as all pages are watermarked with my name and email from my subscription.

Regards,

BIFF
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:57 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Biff trout
bkrantz

Superb writeup and details. About to change oil at 2200 miles and while I have PIWIS subscription, photos are great for those who do not.

A few additions:
1) I have the VW drain plug removal tool but the highly advanced tool specified by PIWIS for removing the drain plug is a "relevant washer (e.g. external diameter of 30 mm, max. 2.4 mm thick)".

2) I have not removed the wire connectors yet but if the fasteners used to mount the connectors (and any other wire bundles) are the types that have wings that expand on the underside of the mounting bracket, a 3/32" or 1/4" socket pushed onto the end of the fastener from the back side of the mounting bracket will retract the wings allowing the fastener to be easily withdrawn from the mounting hole with little effort.

3) PIWIS says that a "clean cloth" should be used to clean the inside of the filter housing and then discarded.

4) Most of the oil capacity information provided in the thread is inaccurate so I have attached a PDF with the fill tables from PIWIS (and yes - the 3.8L from the Turbo and Turbo S holds less oil than the 3.0L).

PS - I cannot post PIWIS instructions as all pages are watermarked with my name and email from my subscription.

Regards,

BIFF
I did it last weekend and can shed a bit of light for you.

(1) I used a small flathead screwdriver that fit inside the drainplug as mine from amazon was on backorder. Now I wished I would've saved the $10, the small flathead fits perfect

(2) used same screwdriver to give the mount a quarter turn, freeing the harness

(3) turkey baster

(4) 8.75 qts and the level moves between totally full and a hair lower than max
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:12 PM
  #66  
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My car took exactly 9 qts and reads exactly full. I then put the waste oil in the empty containers to take it for recycling and the containers were all full, confirming that amount removed matched up to the amount replaced.
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Old 09-04-2017, 11:35 AM
  #67  
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Default 991.1 (2013) differences?

Couldn't find anything specific to oil change for 991.1 (2013). Are there any major differences?
Thx
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:13 AM
  #68  
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Thanks for a Great Thread DIY! I'm all over this...
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:39 AM
  #69  
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so many options for jacking up our 991 as long as we utilize the jack pooints and the proper puck thingy...

I just bought a HF Alum. Jack but I'm kinda liking the Quick-Jack...

Last edited by See U n RearView; 10-27-2017 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 10-28-2017, 03:00 AM
  #70  
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found this link and wondered if you knew your post was copied...

http://www.germanboost.com/showthrea...oil-change-DIY

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Old 10-29-2017, 12:35 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by See U n RearView View Post
found this link and wondered if you knew your post was copied...

http://www.germanboost.com/showthrea...oil-change-DIY

Thanks for the heads-up. I guess his pirate flag is accurate.
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Old 12-10-2017, 04:10 AM
  #72  
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Great thread!

Did anyone ever establish which of the reset tools work for the factory computer?

- Mike
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:18 PM
  #73  
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My Launch C-Reader VII With latest software allows you to reset the oil minder in on a 991.2.

Regards,

BIFF
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:28 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Biff trout View Post
My Launch C-Reader VII With latest software allows you to reset the oil minder in on a 991.2.

Regards,

BIFF
Thanks, Biff!

I appreciate the insight and answer.

- Mike
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Old 12-22-2017, 06:52 PM
  #75  
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I'd trust the crush washer longer than a rubber o ring but I replace them both each oil change, I'm not a fan of the plastic drain plug and I'm cynical as to what propagated that change.
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