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Pardon my ignorance but is there any particular concerns about closing the door with the wire through the bottom of the door? I've done it on my last Macan S all the time it didn't seem to have any issues but I don't want my 911 to be the first.
Anyone here like me just let the wire hang and close the door and have not had any issues?
No concerns with wire through the door except forgetting it and dragging it out through garage
Some older 911 doesn’t have reliable socket connection so it’s best to wire it directly to the battery. Also, some manufacturers make a direct plug to the batteries like the F cars, so it’s kind of cool to have a plug in the hood too for 991 IMO.
No concerns with wire through the door except forgetting it and dragging it out through garage
Some older 911 doesn’t have reliable socket connection so it’s best to wire it directly to the battery. Also, some manufacturers make a direct plug to the batteries like the F cars, so it’s kind of cool to have a plug in the hood too for 991 IMO.
PF
Thanks! One last question, I just plugged my new car in and on the CTEK 4.3 it's stuck at #4. If I recall, it's suppose to get to #7 with green color which means it's fully charged. When reading the manual it says step 4 is "STEP 4 ABSORPTION: Charging with declining current to maximize up to 100% bat- tery capacity." and I'm worry it's some how draining the battery?
or should I just let it plugged it overnight and it'll eventually get to #7?
Thanks! One last question, I just plugged my new car in and on the CTEK 4.3 it's stuck at #4. If I recall, it's suppose to get to #7 with green color which means it's fully charged. When reading the manual it says step 4 is "STEP 4 ABSORPTION: Charging with declining current to maximize up to 100% bat- tery capacity." and I'm worry it's some how draining the battery?
or should I just let it plugged it overnight and it'll eventually get to #7?
Step 4 is absorption phase to diminish some charges so that your battery can be fully charged (prevent overcharging). It is a slow process but normal. You won’t lose the charges in your battery.
Step 4 is absorption phase to diminish some charges so that your battery can be fully charged (prevent overcharging). It is a slow process but normal. You won’t lose the charges in your battery.
PF
Thanks!
Anyone have problem getting the red adaptor socket stuck inside the cigarette charger? I just unplug mine and noticed the red thing is stuck inside. How to get this fished out w/o hurting myself?
Anyone have problem getting the red adaptor socket stuck inside the cigarette charger? I just unplug mine and noticed the red thing is stuck inside. How to get this fished out w/o hurting myself?
You’re welcome anytime mate.
That red adaptor is from battery tender right? Just use a set of pliers to pluck it (with force if needed) and wear rubber gloves if you have any concern about touching the polarity. You can fiddle it with fingers too as long as you wear proper rubber gloves.
So last night I left it plugged in overnight. This morning I noticed my battery charger is still stuck at #4. Anyone have any ideas? Is it because the cigarette port shut off after a while? Anyone have this issue?
I clipped the end of the ring terminal to make it a spade and backed the nut off just a bit and slipped it in and re-tightened.
Very nice solution and I've been thinking of a similar one, but doesn't the manual states that you shouldn't connect anything directly to the negative terminal of the battery and use the remote ground connector located opposite from the battery ? What could happen if you connect the negative directly to the battery ?
Very nice solution and I've been thinking of a similar one, but doesn't the manual states that you shouldn't connect anything directly to the negative terminal of the battery and use the remote ground connector located opposite from the battery ? What could happen if you connect the negative directly to the battery ?
The reason why you do not want to connect directly to the battery is mainly for safety purposes. This is more so when jump starting cars where there is the possibility of a spark. Connecting other connectors, i.e., battery tenders follow the same practice. The best safe solution is to locate a grounding point on the chassis of the car. This is how i landed the negative terminal for my battery tender.
Negative battery terminal connected to strut bolt.
This is a really cool Thread, some really good ideas!
We are a new Vendor to the site...Antigravity Batteries...all we do is Lithium-Ion Motorsports Batteries and related products such as the MICRO-START mini-jump starter products (Consumer Reports Best Rated Jump Starter I might add)... but my point here is that we are developing something that is along the line of what you guys have done but in a way that allows and good energizing of the system... so you can flip the hood release while being outside the vehicles... but also use it as a harness for Charging. We do this for motorcycles already so they don't have to remove their seat.... For example we have this mini jump-starter called the MICRO-START, it normally has mini jumper clamps that you put no your battery... but on a motorcycle its difficult to remove the seat when you are out in the middle of nowhere and access your battery. So we made this harness that attaches to the battery like the SAE Charger Harness you guys use for charging.. but this is 8AWG silicone wire so it can handle enough current for Jump Starting or completely Energizing the car enough to flip the open frunk switch. Anyway we are making a longer one that can come out the hood at the windshield and will also have a little clip mount and weather proof cover on it and it will have a reducer to an SAE tip or you slide off the reducer if you need to use a MICRO-START to energize the system for using the frunk switch or even jump starting.
Anyway we are just making cool stuff that will work for Porsches since that is also what I have and locked myself out of the frunk my first day switching to our Lithium Battery and I also don't like that in the car charging method....
The reason why you do not want to connect directly to the battery is mainly for safety purposes. This is more so when jump starting cars where there is the possibility of a spark. Connecting other connectors, i.e., battery tenders follow the same practice. The best safe solution is to locate a grounding point on the chassis of the car. This is how i landed the negative terminal for my battery tender.
Negative battery terminal connected to strut bolt.
Sidvicious7.... great solution. I think I will do the same. Do you remember what size of nut did you used ?
Anyway we are making a longer one that can come out the hood at the windshield and will also have a little clip mount and weather proof cover on it and it will have a reducer to an SAE tip or you slide off the reducer if you need to use a MICRO-START to energize the system for using the frunk switch or even jump starting.
So last night I left it plugged in overnight. This morning I noticed my battery charger is still stuck at #4. Anyone have any ideas? Is it because the cigarette port shut off after a while? Anyone have this issue?
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It is supposed to take longer than what is indicated in the manual. Just keep it connected and with extra patience
So last night I left it plugged in overnight. This morning I noticed my battery charger is still stuck at #4. Anyone have any ideas? Is it because the cigarette port shut off after a while? Anyone have this issue?
Do you have an AGM battery or is there a particular reason you are using that mode? I may have missed it.
04-23-2018 | 01:17 AM
