Question about 4 year service on 991.1
#16
#17
Originally Posted by StormRune
I have also been told that it is a requirement for a CPO to have any service due or upcoming in the near future performed before sale. My local salespeople and their manager have mentioned this more than once to me. This car is past due for 4 year service, officially speaking, so they shouldn't have any choice in the matter.
However.... the pertinent section in the CPO checklist is here, which seems to leave some room for interpretation I guess.
I don't know if that affects your horse-trading though. I wouldn't want to start out with it being in any need for service for sure though! So get it one way or the other.
However.... the pertinent section in the CPO checklist is here, which seems to leave some room for interpretation I guess.
I don't know if that affects your horse-trading though. I wouldn't want to start out with it being in any need for service for sure though! So get it one way or the other.
How are you interpreting this language.
Regardless seems like a low mileage car.
Probably well taken care of.
So basically it has about 17 ? months of warranty if that's enough for the OP.
I would agree with including the service as StormRune stated.
#18
With all due respect, seized plugs is simply not a risk on a car that's a few years old and has barely done break-in miles. There really is no reason to change plugs and filters on a 3K mile 991. We all do what we need to do to sleep better at night, and maybe for some people that means throwing out parts that are only 7.5% of the way through their service life.
#19
With all due respect, seized plugs is simply not a risk on a car that's a few years old and has barely done break-in miles. There really is no reason to change plugs and filters on a 3K mile 991. We all do what we need to do to sleep better at night, and maybe for some people that means throwing out parts that are only 7.5% of the way through their service life.
I'm in that group. My understanding is that the replacement is required not because the usable service life of the plug is ending, but because there is accelerating risk that the plugs may seize to the threads in the head, and remove those threads when the plug is finally changed. IMHO there are two forces at work on the spark plug threads and heads: Heat cycles and time. Low mileage addresses the heat cycle count, but not the time.
Also, I think of the labor to change the plugs as irrelevant. It's going to be incurred at some point. The absolute dollar cost may be slightly higher a year or two from now, but adjusted for inflation it's probably going to be a wash. I don't anticipate anything driving up or down the labor cost of a competent tech over the next few years. So I don't think I am saving anything on labor by skipping the plugs, and that leaves only the cost of the plugs themselves. I assume that cost will be staying relatively constant also, which means the only amount in play here would be the few hundred dollars for the plugs. If I can save myself 80% or 90% of a few hundred dollars by gambling on seized plugs, I'm going to pass. Part of financial success, IMHO, is not having to take risks to save (i.e., earn) $80 to $200 dollars.
#21
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 8,947
Likes: 2,631
From: The Woodlands, TX.
Originally Posted by LexVan
Back in August, I asked my dealership for pricing on the 40K service, and was quoted $1,540. There's a lot of stuff in there that I don't require done (because I can do some myself [both cabin filters], and am on a different [5K] oil change schedule. So, I asked for "a la carte' pricing, too. The 2 main areas of concern for me are the spark plugs ($540) and engine air filters ($162). I'm OK with this pricing. I plan to have the work done in late Spring 2017 (in winter hibernation now) when my car will be 3 years old with about 42,000 miles.
On a low mileage car (like the OP's example), you still want to do the plugs at the 4 year interval, because you don't want the risk of a siezed plug. As for the engine air filters, it may be worth it, since the dealerships want to remove the rear bumper cover to gain better access to the plugs, and then the fitlers are right there.
On a low mileage car (like the OP's example), you still want to do the plugs at the 4 year interval, because you don't want the risk of a siezed plug. As for the engine air filters, it may be worth it, since the dealerships want to remove the rear bumper cover to gain better access to the plugs, and then the fitlers are right there.
#22
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf
Based on the DIY's it looks like there isn't really a need to remove the bumper to change plugs. Is that their normal procedure?
Does bumper cover removal help with any plug access at all?
#23
Not a bit. Access is from underneath. You don't even have to take the wheels off to do the plugs. Just unbolt a heat shield on each side, remove the coils, and the plugs are right there. Very easy. Was surprised to see what the dealer charges for what is an hour job max.
#24
Originally Posted by Churchill
Not a bit. Access is from underneath. You don't even have to take the wheels off to do the plugs. Just unbolt a heat shield on each side, remove the coils, and the plugs are right there. Very easy. Was surprised to see what the dealer charges for what is an hour job max.
#25
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 159
From: S Carolina coast & N Carolina mountains
I'm in that group. My understanding is that the replacement is required not because the usable service life of the plug is ending, but because there is accelerating risk that the plugs may seize to the threads in the head, and remove those threads when the plug is finally changed. IMHO there are two forces at work on the spark plug threads and heads: Heat cycles and time. Low mileage addresses the heat cycle count, but not the time.
Also, I think of the labor to change the plugs as irrelevant. It's going to be incurred at some point. The absolute dollar cost may be slightly higher a year or two from now, but adjusted for inflation it's probably going to be a wash. I don't anticipate anything driving up or down the labor cost of a competent tech over the next few years. So I don't think I am saving anything on labor by skipping the plugs, and that leaves only the cost of the plugs themselves. I assume that cost will be staying relatively constant also, which means the only amount in play here would be the few hundred dollars for the plugs. If I can save myself 80% or 90% of a few hundred dollars by gambling on seized plugs, I'm going to pass. Part of financial success, IMHO, is not having to take risks to save (i.e., earn) $80 to $200 dollars.
Also, I think of the labor to change the plugs as irrelevant. It's going to be incurred at some point. The absolute dollar cost may be slightly higher a year or two from now, but adjusted for inflation it's probably going to be a wash. I don't anticipate anything driving up or down the labor cost of a competent tech over the next few years. So I don't think I am saving anything on labor by skipping the plugs, and that leaves only the cost of the plugs themselves. I assume that cost will be staying relatively constant also, which means the only amount in play here would be the few hundred dollars for the plugs. If I can save myself 80% or 90% of a few hundred dollars by gambling on seized plugs, I'm going to pass. Part of financial success, IMHO, is not having to take risks to save (i.e., earn) $80 to $200 dollars.
#26
#27
Maybe a few mins over an hour, can't remember. It's almost as easy as doing the plugs on an early 911. I have a 993 as well. Now that plug job is a PITA.
#28
As stated, taking off the bumper cover does not help one bit.