My Baby was very good this year
12-29-2015, 11:50 AM
#17
Race Director
Originally Posted by BradB
Do the BMC filters require oiling?
They have a kit they sell where you can wash them and re-oil them at some point. Guys make the mistake and oil them too much from what I've heard. I might just replace them when needed vs. washing mine.
I have them and installing in the spring.
12-29-2015, 04:04 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Congrats. I did the bumper removal myself for the 40K service and have helped another Houston local do his. I agree it looks much more complicated than it is.
Pro tip: have a variety of Torx tools available. I used sockets, t-handles, and a small multi tool to reach the various fasteners. There is a pictorial on the Fabspeed site that shows where all the fasteners are.
Pro tip: have a variety of Torx tools available. I used sockets, t-handles, and a small multi tool to reach the various fasteners. There is a pictorial on the Fabspeed site that shows where all the fasteners are.
Thanks, Happy Holidays
- larry
12-29-2015, 04:47 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
12-29-2015, 06:05 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
BTW not clear to me looking at those instructions that all steps need to be followed to simply replace the air filters vs replacing the airbox ... but useful
to provide a guide to all that needs to be done...
thanks for posting!
I'm going to replace my filters over the next couple of days
12-29-2015, 07:55 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Larry, that actually involves some extra steps that won't be needed to replace the OEM filters, but it does provide a pretty good template of where the fasteners are so you're not leaving one that you missed. You do not need to remove all of the intake stuff that they do, nor the spoiler, just the bumper. Be careful with those little triangles that cover the taillight screws, their tabs break easily. Mine survived but we broke them on the guy I helped here in town, amazingly they were pretty cheap to replace, like around $30 for both.
Once the air boxes are exposed, they just snap open and closed. I'm going to guess the bumper cover itself weighs around 20 lbs or less. One person could handle it although I had my buddy there. We just set it aside on a blanket when we took it off, and when you remount, it kind of "self aligns" so there will be no body gaps that have to be adjusted.
Once the air boxes are exposed, they just snap open and closed. I'm going to guess the bumper cover itself weighs around 20 lbs or less. One person could handle it although I had my buddy there. We just set it aside on a blanket when we took it off, and when you remount, it kind of "self aligns" so there will be no body gaps that have to be adjusted.
12-30-2015, 01:20 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Larry, that actually involves some extra steps that won't be needed to replace the OEM filters, but it does provide a pretty good template of where the fasteners are so you're not leaving one that you missed. You do not need to remove all of the intake stuff that they do, nor the spoiler, just the bumper. Be careful with those little triangles that cover the taillight screws, their tabs break easily. Mine survived but we broke them on the guy I helped here in town, amazingly they were pretty cheap to replace, like around $30 for both.
Once the air boxes are exposed, they just snap open and closed. I'm going to guess the bumper cover itself weighs around 20 lbs or less. One person could handle it although I had my buddy there. We just set it aside on a blanket when we took it off, and when you remount, it kind of "self aligns" so there will be no body gaps that have to be adjusted.
Once the air boxes are exposed, they just snap open and closed. I'm going to guess the bumper cover itself weighs around 20 lbs or less. One person could handle it although I had my buddy there. We just set it aside on a blanket when we took it off, and when you remount, it kind of "self aligns" so there will be no body gaps that have to be adjusted.
12-30-2015, 01:53 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Some helpful tips on bumper removal/air filter replacement
Hi All,
Well after putting my SmartTop and new DSC into the GTS I decided to also
replace the OEM air filters with the BMC filters I had purchased before I even
took delivery of the car (I wimped out of installing the Rennline grilles myself)
I thought I would pass on some tips I learned with the experience to help
others make the process a little faster...
I used as a guide the fabspeed 991 airbox install instructions that mbscott kindly
posted above ... NOTE THAT NOT ALL THE STEPS THEREIN ARE REQUIRED
IN ORDER TO REPLACE THE AIR FILTERS ALONE!
you will need:
- T30 male socket
- T25 male socket
- small trim tool or flat bladed screw driver
- soft blanket or similar to rest the bumper cover on when removed
The basic removal involves removing a number of T30 and T25 screws from
the perimeter of the bumper.
3x T30 along the trailing edge of each rear wheel arch/wheel
4x T30 under the spoiler/decklid just above the bumper
2x T30 underneath the bumper just inboard of the exhaust tips
2x T30 along the bottom edge of the bumper between the rear wheels and tips
2x covers over the taillight attachment screws
2x T25 screws for attaching the tailights
2x T30 bolts behind the taillights just behind the rear wheel arch
7x T25 bolts around the perimeter of the airbox itself.
OK so here are my tips/gotchas in order:
1) Start with the T30's along the trailing edge of the rear wheel arch/well.
These three, and especially the one at the top where the seam of the bumper
meets the body, are the hardest to access, you may if you do not have a
low profile socket driver and T30, or you have PASM-S or lowering springs,
require you to jack the car in order to gain access to the screws, so best
to start with these and jack if necessary.
I'd recommend getting a low profile socket driver of less than 1" in total height
The remaining T30's around the bumper are easy to access and should not
cause any issues in removal or reinstall
2) Raise the wing, and remove the taillight access covers
Under the decklid/wing at either end of the opening there is a triangular
plastic cover, directly above the each tailight, this cover is hinged and
retained by spring clips, simple hand pressure should release the spring
clips and the panels should easily pop out exposing 3 screws, the larger
of which retains the wing, the two smaller retain the taillight - remove those.
If the panels do not pop out with hand pressure you are probably pulling on
the edge that is hinged ... stop that or you will break the retaining tab
3) removing the taillights
just be cautious when you pull those out in order not to scratch the bodywork
or stress the molex connector, it has a small locking tab on the underside to release
4) the MF'ing license plate light connector
This was by far the most frustrating part of the work for me, its not obvious
how the male/female connectors are locked, and there is not a lot of room
or slack to work with...
The female connector is attached to the bumper by a small retaining
lug/keyhole, if you rotate the unit it will detach
I also partially pulled that side of the bumper off a little to give some room to work
the male/female connectors are locked together by a retaining tab , I used a
narrow trim tool (but you could use a flat head screwdriver) inserted into the
lock mechanism from the female end to unlock this and separate the two
This was both tricky and not obvious (to me at least)
5) If you have parking sensors and camera
If you have rear parking sensors (and optional camera) those are connected
via a pair of connectors located behind the passenger side taillight
The assembly is retained in a black plastic frame with a locking hinged plastic
flap over it, pulling out on the bottom of the flap will allow it to hinge
upwards
The parking sensors are connected via a large black molex, which is easily
disconnected
The camera is connected by a more elaborate white connector with pink/purple tabs, using your fingernail one the right connectors purple tab,
unlock and pull apart.
The bumper is ready to be removed now, pull each end away/outwards from
the back of the rear wheel arch, once freed the whole bumper can be lifted
off
lay it on a soft surface, it will roll back so be careful!
this exposes the airbox which is attached by 7xT25 bolts at 12, 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, & 11 o'clock approximately, remove those and replace filters
you are done, now reverse everything put the bumper back on and
re-connect the electrics (lic plate light, parking sensor/camera and tails)!
6) check you didn't screw up!
I tested the license plate lights, the taillights and the parking sensors and camera for proper operation before doing anything else
I 1st bolted the 2x large silver bolts at either side of the bumper (in the taillight bays) I then put all the T30's back in loosely by hand then tightened
everything up once I had located all the screws in their respective locations.
Voila!
job done, crack open a beer now ...
Well after putting my SmartTop and new DSC into the GTS I decided to also
replace the OEM air filters with the BMC filters I had purchased before I even
took delivery of the car (I wimped out of installing the Rennline grilles myself)
I thought I would pass on some tips I learned with the experience to help
others make the process a little faster...
I used as a guide the fabspeed 991 airbox install instructions that mbscott kindly
posted above ... NOTE THAT NOT ALL THE STEPS THEREIN ARE REQUIRED
IN ORDER TO REPLACE THE AIR FILTERS ALONE!
you will need:
- T30 male socket
- T25 male socket
- small trim tool or flat bladed screw driver
- soft blanket or similar to rest the bumper cover on when removed
The basic removal involves removing a number of T30 and T25 screws from
the perimeter of the bumper.
3x T30 along the trailing edge of each rear wheel arch/wheel
4x T30 under the spoiler/decklid just above the bumper
2x T30 underneath the bumper just inboard of the exhaust tips
2x T30 along the bottom edge of the bumper between the rear wheels and tips
2x covers over the taillight attachment screws
2x T25 screws for attaching the tailights
2x T30 bolts behind the taillights just behind the rear wheel arch
7x T25 bolts around the perimeter of the airbox itself.
OK so here are my tips/gotchas in order:
1) Start with the T30's along the trailing edge of the rear wheel arch/well.
These three, and especially the one at the top where the seam of the bumper
meets the body, are the hardest to access, you may if you do not have a
low profile socket driver and T30, or you have PASM-S or lowering springs,
require you to jack the car in order to gain access to the screws, so best
to start with these and jack if necessary.
I'd recommend getting a low profile socket driver of less than 1" in total height
The remaining T30's around the bumper are easy to access and should not
cause any issues in removal or reinstall
2) Raise the wing, and remove the taillight access covers
Under the decklid/wing at either end of the opening there is a triangular
plastic cover, directly above the each tailight, this cover is hinged and
retained by spring clips, simple hand pressure should release the spring
clips and the panels should easily pop out exposing 3 screws, the larger
of which retains the wing, the two smaller retain the taillight - remove those.
If the panels do not pop out with hand pressure you are probably pulling on
the edge that is hinged ... stop that or you will break the retaining tab
3) removing the taillights
just be cautious when you pull those out in order not to scratch the bodywork
or stress the molex connector, it has a small locking tab on the underside to release
4) the MF'ing license plate light connector
This was by far the most frustrating part of the work for me, its not obvious
how the male/female connectors are locked, and there is not a lot of room
or slack to work with...
The female connector is attached to the bumper by a small retaining
lug/keyhole, if you rotate the unit it will detach
I also partially pulled that side of the bumper off a little to give some room to work
the male/female connectors are locked together by a retaining tab , I used a
narrow trim tool (but you could use a flat head screwdriver) inserted into the
lock mechanism from the female end to unlock this and separate the two
This was both tricky and not obvious (to me at least)
5) If you have parking sensors and camera
If you have rear parking sensors (and optional camera) those are connected
via a pair of connectors located behind the passenger side taillight
The assembly is retained in a black plastic frame with a locking hinged plastic
flap over it, pulling out on the bottom of the flap will allow it to hinge
upwards
The parking sensors are connected via a large black molex, which is easily
disconnected
The camera is connected by a more elaborate white connector with pink/purple tabs, using your fingernail one the right connectors purple tab,
unlock and pull apart.
The bumper is ready to be removed now, pull each end away/outwards from
the back of the rear wheel arch, once freed the whole bumper can be lifted
off
lay it on a soft surface, it will roll back so be careful!
this exposes the airbox which is attached by 7xT25 bolts at 12, 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, & 11 o'clock approximately, remove those and replace filters
you are done, now reverse everything put the bumper back on and
re-connect the electrics (lic plate light, parking sensor/camera and tails)!
6) check you didn't screw up!
I tested the license plate lights, the taillights and the parking sensors and camera for proper operation before doing anything else
I 1st bolted the 2x large silver bolts at either side of the bumper (in the taillight bays) I then put all the T30's back in loosely by hand then tightened
everything up once I had located all the screws in their respective locations.
Voila!
job done, crack open a beer now ...
12-30-2015, 03:59 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
Thanks Larry, helpful tips and doodads !
12-31-2015, 12:38 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
I haven't driven it yet, but at idle you can definitely hear a deeper "baritone" 
from the intake than normal...
The additional 20bhp of course immediately makes its presence felt throughout the entire rpm range (at idle)!
Happy New Year!
- Larry
from the intake than normal...
The additional 20bhp of course immediately makes its presence felt throughout the entire rpm range (at idle)!
Happy New Year!
- Larry