911sccab

As the temperatures have dropped I've been pleasantly surprised that the factory performance tires are still behaving just below 40 degrees... but I know I'm getting close to their lower limit.

I have a TPMS equipped set of brand new winter wheels and tires... any installation pointers that are unique to the 991s?

I normally use a floor jack and an impact wrench... but I don't want to be ham-fisted approaching the Targa!

Thanks,
Greg

LexVan

Go see the other post. Use at least one (2 is better) wheel alignment mounting bolts.

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9042...uide-bolt.html

Use a hockey puck on your floor jack.

Don't use power tools. Use all hand tools.

Torque spec is 118-119 ft.lbs.

I always place the locking wheel bolt directly opposite and across from the value stem, this makes it easier to always find it the next time.

Wheel crests point towards the valve stem, to look pretty.

LexVan

Now, if you want to really get jiggy:

1) wash all wheel wells and calipers with a good citrus degreaser or Simple Green.

2) wax the clean painted areas with a product like Rejex.

3) Use a product like Optimum Gloss on the calipers

4) 303 all the black plastic stuff

5) Use the remaining Optimum Gloss on your take-off wheels, so they are ready for spring (wash with warm soapy water, re-wash with Simple Green, rinse well, wipe down with 1/2 & 1/2 water and denatured alcohol, coat with Optimum Gloss, let cure for a day or two, and then top with Armor All Wheel Protectant (don't touch this last step, or do a day prior to remounting in the spring).

drcollie

see that rusty area on the hub and where the wheel facing contacts the backside of the wheel? coat liberally with anti-seize and your wheels will come off nicely in the Spring on the change back to the summer set.

sandbar

I need to tend to that rust area on the hub. Unsightly!

jsalah

I think you could have yourself a nice little cottage industry...

If you were nearer to me, I'd be saying "shut up and take my money"! to do this to my car...

LexVan

OMG! This job is a real back breaker. Takes me 2 days just to do this as part of my winter hibernation routine. I do one side each day. About 3 hours each day. Followed by 3 Advil every 6 hours. So, what I'm saying is, you couldn't possibly pay me enough.

Bartron

I try not to lift the car much higher than I need to. Makes it easier to prevent the rim dropping onto the rotor and less lifting. Of course, if you can lift to standing height, that's a different story.

Try not to use your torque wrench as a breaker bar, many of them don't like that.

Label the corners you took off so you can rotate when putting back on.

If you're doing CL change over, you ideally need the car off the ground and you need a brake depressor (mechanical or human) when you loosen. Inspect and lube the CL hub as per the manual.

Check out jackpoint jack stands, they're pretty cool and much faster at getting the car off the ground.