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A little background first...when I bought my 991 Carrera in October of 2012 I did the unthinkable in Porsche terms, I drove it as my only car for over a year. I picked up a MINI in December of the next year but I continue to drive the 911 as much as I can/want. I just turned 40K miles a couple of weeks ago and have accepted that this car is a keeper now, I can't stomach the idea of how much depreciation I would take so I am committing to being one of those old guys who drives around the 20 year old 911 that still looks brand new.
My dealer wanted around $1500 to do the 40K service, the two other dealers in town were about the same. I thought that was really high for what's done, so with the help of a friend decided to do it in my driveway.
I met my friend 15 years ago in my cycling hobby. He's worked over 30 years as a Porsche tech, first on several race teams, then at two of the three Houston dealers, the last 10 or so at an independent. I ordered all of the parts from Sonnen for $262, then about $45 of Mobil 1 from Walmart. The parts came in quicker than I thought but with a bit of nudging he agreed to come help today even though he hadn't brought any of his professional tools home from his shop. Between what he keeps at home (which is more than most of us I'm sure) and a few of my meager tools we had everything we needed.
Here's the nuts and bolts;
1. Oil change-he coached but I did most of it myself. Very easy, filter is accessible from top with the fans and airfunnel removed, they all snap in place. 8mm Allen wrench for drain plug, 36mm socket for filter housing. We started by jacking up the car one side at a time and putting it on jackstands using the frame crossmember for support. He had me leave it draining for almost an hour, he says dealers try to rush it and don't get nearly as much out. We drained out 8 quarts and I put 8 back in.
2. Cabin filters-I did both of those myself. The one in the frunk is directly below the snap in plastic cover and its lid requires no tools to open either, very easy. The one under the glovebox is also easy to replace, but it's awkward getting in there looking up and pulling it out. Still a 5 minute operation.
3. Air filters. Here's the thing they put the fear into us about as it requires the removal of the rear bumper cover. I had found an online pictorial that showed where all the fasteners are but I could have done it without I think. All torx head screws, just work up from the bottom or vice versa until you're sure you've got them all. We both pulled the cover free but it was surprisingly light, one person could do it if needed. During this process you also remove the tail lights but they are also very easy, there's a total of maybe five or six snap on electrical connectors that you have to remove/refit during the job.Once that's off the airboxes are exposed and it's a 5 minute job to replace the filters.
4. Sparkplugs-this was the most tedious part and my friend did all of the work to be quicker but made me watch what he was doing for the most part. One heat shield on each side needed to be removed, then the coils and plugs, and one suspension sensor on the driver's side needed to be unplugged and folded up. He made two comments here, first he said the driver's side was a bit harder because of the cylinder offset, the plugs are a tiny bit further forward under more stuff. He did say the plugs could be changed without bumper removal. The other notable thing was he said it was much easier than a 997. He says the 991 has lots of little things built into it to make maintenance easier even though folks poke fun at the bumper thing.
He also looked everything in general over. There is a checklist of things the service is supposed to inspect, only a couple require a dealer interface.
So, less than $350 and a few minutes shy of 3 hours. He says in his shop with a lift and without me watching he could have done it in two. So at my dealer's current shop labor rate of $140, where's the extra $700-800 coming from?
I could do this myself in the future. The only tools he says he wishes we had were some socket swivels to make spark plug removal easier, and it's good to have a variety of torx tools as the amount of room around the fasteners varies, some used sockets, others needed hand wrenches.
So, less than $350 and a few minutes shy of 3 hours. He says in his shop with a lift and without me watching he could have done it in two. So at my dealer's current shop labor rate of $140, where's the extra $700-800 coming from?
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Great write-up. Shows that there is no "great mystery" to doing general maintenance on this car - just filling the stealerships' pockets. As for the extra $700-$800, it is part Porsche tax, part scare tactic ("only we can do it because it is so complicated, and we have trained techs, therefore we have to charge an arm and a leg for it") -- and all greed.
Good question....how did the plugs look? Nice and dry with a coffee/cocoa colored dusting??
The extra $700-800....where does it go? Your friend knows. When he worked at the dealership, Techs got bonuses for completing work under book time. Even indy shops do it.
Thanks for the write up! Are you thinking of changing the brake fluid? I believe cycling the ABS is one of the "interfaces" that, essentially, only a shop has.
Thanks for the write up! Are you thinking of changing the brake fluid? I believe cycling the ABS is one of the "interfaces" that, essentially, only a shop has.
Not needed unless you actually change out the ABS unit itself.
Good question....how did the plugs look? Nice and dry with a coffee/cocoa colored dusting??
That's exactly how they looked. I haven't really "read" plugs since my days with two stroke motorcycles years ago where you were checking to see how soon you were going to seize, but these looked very healthy.
My friend says the main reason for a prescribed interval for plug replacement is emissions related, i.e. changing them regularly before they get bad.
Oh, one other thing, I've now got to have that pesky "oil change now" service indicator turned off. I will either go by his shop (where he says his boss will make him charge me something) or I have another mechanic friend with a Durametric tool that says to bring it by. I wish there was a way to reset these using the car controls. My MINI can be reset through a sequence of the stalk controls and from searching around prior generation 911's could too, but that functionality has been taken out of the 991 or at least no one's figured it out yet.
How much of a concern is this ? Also was wondering if there any inspections required that you cant do yourself ?
Up until this point, my car had been into the dealer at each prior 10K service. They never "stamped my book." I have kept all of the paperwork and of course it's in their records. I will do the same for this, keep the paperwork showing that I bought the parts, etc. but with only 10K more warranty to go I am not concerned.
The only thing I can remember off the top of my head that the dealer only can do is hooking up their PIWIS system to read any fault codes and/or check for software updates. I can live without doing that.