_BK

Geez, you guys are aggressive in price offers, so I'm interested in hearing what you think of this. I've been watching C2S and C4S prices on the usual places on the internet, and found this 2013 C4S with the options I want. The only problem is that I'm not in Boston: http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/de...2259/overview/

They're asking $86K, 88K if I want them to CPO. That is pretty much in line with carguru.com's suggested price. It has 25K miles, which doesn't seem outrageous. Original sticker was around $127K. What would you offer?

On a related note, is there a way to get a mechanic to go over the car without me even going up there myself -- is that something people do? I've never bought long distance and I'd rather save the trip if a third party mechanic said it's not in excellent condition.

CSK 911 C4S

Price is subjective..... If you think it's a good deal go for it but unless you are out of the country I would spend the $400 for a plane ticket and go look at it if this car is on your short list ....or ask if a rennlist'er is available to go look at the car for you. One positive is that it's located at a good Porsche dealer.

drmatara

Too many miles and only 2 years left in the warranty..I'd probably be OK with low 80s and CPO

Verinnal

I've been tracking 2013 991 prices due to the fact that I'll be purchasing mine between October and December of this year. With those miles I'd offer 80500 non cpo or 82500 cpo. Settle for 81000 or 83000 with cpo assuming the car has been meticulously maintained. Personally I'd shop a lower mileage car. Currently 2013 models with about 12.5k miles are can be found for 88k if you track them daily. Check out autotrader if you haven't. Some reasonable cars on there as of late.

LexVan

They are asking a very fair price. Get the CPO. Offer $85 and they include the CPO and see what they say.

Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

Verinnal

I won't disagree with LexVan, because I don't necessarily think he's wrong, however my personality is such that I won't ever accept a "fair" or "average" deal. It needs to be a tremendous bargain, and needs to meet all of my criteria, and I won't pay a dollar more than I think I can get a car for. I believe when you're shopping for cars in the $75-$125k range, every penny counts because the extra cash can be used for car covers, accessories, detailing, etc.

Get creative. Do you have kids between 18 and 21? If not, do you have friends or family with kids in that range? Chances are they'll jump at the chance to make some quick cash. Get one or two kids together. Offer $250 bucks to the person that is able to secure a deal that meets your parameters. Chances are they spend most of their day on their computers anyway, have them make some calls and learn some negotiating skills in the process. Have them track prices for you in a spreadsheet with details about options and mileage. Figure out a consolation prize or reward for them doing the work regardless of success.

I believe it making my money work for me. Have someone put in the effort to save you a good chunk of cash. Of course don't stop tracking prices yourself...

Yep, I'm a weirdo.

chatt

Don't know if this helps, but I was in the market for a 12/13 991 s (not a 4s), and I scoured the US for deals. Last weekend, I flew from Tennessee to New Jersey to buy a '12 991s with an original MSRP of $124k, with 14k miles on it, for $77.4k (before taxes). The car was not CPO, but it had new tires, and the dealer had already performed the 2 year/20k mile service on the car.

I found better prices on other cars that either had higher miles, less options, or had a less than perfect histories (i.e. had bounced from dealer to dealer, were off-lease cars that had gone to auction, etc.). Some of the lower-priced, higher mileage, cars were CPO, but what it all came down to is I wanted to lowest mileage, one owner, highest optioned car I could find.

I plan on keeping my car for 2-3 years and upgrading again. By purchasing a car with 14k miles - as opposed to 25k miles - even if I drive the car a decent amount, two years down the road, my car will still have less than 35k miles on it, and will still be attractive for a dealer to take in on trade.

I was looking hard at a CPO 991s with 30k miles on it for $75k. I followed some good advice I got on here and spent a little more for a non-CPO car with less than half the miles - and I'm glad I did.

twlai

This is a pretty sweet deal!
if you don;t mind me asking, how much was the asking price?
I probably need to learn to negotiate better!

_BK

I knew you guys would be good! Thank you for the advice. I love the idea of putting some teenagers on it. Unfortunately, my kids are all little and they couldn't really pull that off.

I've read a bunch of pricing threads here and I've seen other LexVan responses where I was like, "Whoa, he's suggesting way less than the asking price!" and this time he didn't, so that tells me the dealer isn't too far off base. I was thinking of $85K with CPO, maybe offer $83K with CPO, giving us room to agree on $85K. I assume the appropriate thing to do is a PPI when I actually go up there in person.

When I asked about CPO, they said they had done an inspection, put on two near rear tires, done an oil change and brake fluid flush, and pulled DME information. Regarding DME, they said there were "no overrevs outside the normal range." Not sure what that means, but I didn't ask for the DME from them yet.

When it comes to mileage, I drive around 13,500 miles a year, so if this were mine, 27K miles would be about right. At least it suggests they were most likely highway miles and the car probably didn't spend too much time being serviced but actually driven. Maybe I'm rationalizing.

If this car were in the DC area, it would be so much easier. There's a local 2013 991 C2S non-CPO here (also 27K miles and listed at $83K - http://www.intersportautosales.com/2...8/Details.aspx) that I want to take a look at before making up my mind on anything. I think the local car may be priced a bit high, and I kind of want a 4S anyway. I'll watch the other recommended sites for prices for a few more days before making up my mind. Thanks!

chatt

The asking price of the 991s I bought was in the high 80's for several months. Out of the blue, they dealer dropped the price to 79k. It popped up on Cargurus and I called the same day. The lowest I could get them to go was 77.4k. I had to pay a $289 doc fee and my state taxes over this amount.

twlai

chatt,

thanks.. i think i have to start watching on a daily basis to catch these good deal...

twlai

twlai

to the OP, i am in Boston, I watched the same car for a while. It is just not my color, so
I haven't gone down to check it out...

I probably can go down this Saturday and check it out for you... body scatch, interior condition,
test drive etc...
By no mean that i can give you a professional PPI report, more of a fellow fourm opinion....

chatt

twlia -

I called about my car, negotiated a price, put down a deposit the same day, ran to the bank and got a check for the purchase price, bought the last flight out to Newark that day, crashed in Newark that night (last Friday), took a train to Princeton the next morning, checked out the car (it was perfect), signed the docs and drove it 800 miles home. The deals are out there, you just have to be patient and wait. IMO, the Porsche dealers I communicated with were all very nice and professional, but the prices were just too high on their 991 inventory. My car came from a range rover dealer. I advise you to look closely at the history of any car you buy, call the service dept of the dealerships that serviced the car, pull the warranty work, etc. You don't want a car that has been back repeatedly for some random issue, hesitation, etc. The car I bought was purchased new in Princeton at the Porsche dealer there, it had a full 3m wrap put on the hood, fenders, mirrors, quarter panels, and bumpers the day it was purchased, and it was never serviced anywhere but in Princeton. In other words, it was a local garage queen. Those are out there, and that's what you want if you can find one. When the deals pop up, you have to be prepared to pull the trigger or someone else will get it. The LR dealer told me they had received a ton of calls after I put my deposit down.

_BK

I'd like to take you up on that. If I can figure out how to PM, I'm going to PM you.

Also, no pressure, of course, and don't go out of your way if you get tied up or anything. It would be nice to save a trip, though, if another forum member reported "it drove weird" or "the interior is pretty worn out compared to the photos" or something. I'll have to think of some way to repay you for your effort, too.

twlai

don't need to repay me for anything, it is a good excuse to go test drive a porsche!

now i am worry that if i tell you the car is great, and you come down and find something wrong
with the car and think of me as some idiot that wasted your time....