normantooh

Last 2 questions,

If I change all the speakers do you think its ok to run them from the bose amp for now until I find a Burmester amp?

Also do you think I will need to change both the speaker girls in the front door or just the one that has the Burmester silver trim on it?

thanks for the help

socalsteve

Base system thoughts? That is what is in my car...

Lunarx, where in SoCal are you? Would love to pick your brain, hear your system and share an IPA with you.

Let me know, please.

Thanks,

Steve

PS: I'm mid city, just south of Beverly Hills.

lunarx

I don't think you will have any major problems running the Burmester speakers, off the Bose amp.
Worst case is the level matching, between drivers, might be off.
EQ curves are hopefully not too different.
May as well see how it sounds, before investing the time and money into an amp refrofit.

Would you mind posting pics of your Burmester drivers?
Perhaps front and back shots.
Also, if you could get a close up of the electrical connector, on each speaker, that would be good reference also.
(You can skip Tweeter/Sub/Center, since I posted those already.)

I'll check on the door speaker grilles, to see if there are any additional part numbers, specific to Burmester.
My guess is door grille would only need to be changed for cosmetic reasons, of getting the fancy Burmester logo trim.

lunarx

It would be even cooler to upgrade a Base system.
If the sub can be retrofit, that would be good news to lots of people.

I'm in San Diego, but I get up to LA fairly often.
I'll contact you, so we can arrange something.

normantooh

Front door speaker









Small speaker, there are 2 of these in the front door, and 2 in the rear doors.












Rear Tweeters

normantooh

One worry was that the impedance is different, the bose tweeters are 4ohms and the burmester are 6.

The centre bose is 4 vs 2.

normantooh

Do you think the amp would be a straight swap or is there more involved ?

I definitely want to change at least the sub amp as the burmester is 300w vs 100w for the Bose

77tony

Thinking about installing the Burmeister tweeters up front as lunarx recommends, and disconnecting the Bose sub. Install either a Blaupunkt XLF (300W self amplified) sub or the Kicker 11HS8 (150W self amplified) 8" sub tucked in behind rear seat. T

edit: Went with the Burmester subwoofer as recommended here. T

normantooh

Also I forgot to say I managed to swap the sub without taking out any of the trim at all.

socalsteve

Awesome! Can't wait...let me know...

Steve

lunarx

normantooth,

Thanks for posting those Burmester pics.
Now I am considering swapping out my Bose Door Woofer for that Burmester.
So I am now anxiously waiting to hear your results

Well, our friend Chuck991 could elaborate on this more....
Short version is that we are only measuring DC Resistance and not Dynamic Impedence.
Therefore, these numbers have little bearing on what the true amplifier load is, when the driver is operated in its intended frequency range.
I believe the Bose amp has enough power to handle the load of the Burmester speakers, based on my experience with the Tweeters and Woofer.

As you change more speakers the only real worry (IMHO) is level balancing and appropriateness of Bose EQ Curve, for the Burmester speakers.
That's why I was not going after midrange speakers, since they are "less bad" (as Chuck991 would say) and I figured the reward/risk ratio was lower there.
However, chances are high that the Burmester mid drivers are still going to sound better.

I'll tell you the Bose Amp is putting out plenty of bass w/ the Burmnester Subwoofer, so I don't know that you "need" the Burmester Sub Amp.

I highly doubt it will just plug in since the Burmester Amp has a different housing (bigger) and very likely a different connector (as did all the speakers).
There is a way around the connector issue, if you are willing to make an adapter harness.

The next concern becomes the input sensitivity of the Burmester Amp.
We don't know if it will be set to work well, with the Bose input signal level.
Again, a simple level adjusting adapter can fix that too.

I just thought an aftermarket Sub Amp might make more sense, before taking on any of the above measures.

Then again there is a small chance the Burmester Sub Amp could just plug in and work perfectly
It's only a $275 risk if you want to buy the Burmester Sub amp and give it a shot.
I was thinking about rolling the dice on it myself.

I'm incredibly impressed
Not sure how you managed to work around the lower airbag.
Did you at least remove the lower air duct?

lunarx

I suppose a pair of those would look kind of cool on the rear package shelf

normantooh

Thanks for the detailed response.

No I did not remove any air ducts or any parts at all. But my car is a RHD and the sub is on the right and side. I dont know if its the same with you?

Money2536

This is amazing guys. I've been following intently keep it coming. I may take the plunge into this territory with the GT3 soon.

lunarx

Interesting.....
My sub is on the left side.
Perhaps your right side mounting allows more room.
My guess is, its because the electrical is different, on the right side.
The electrical items, on the left side, were the major cause of interference for me.
I had to unclip and move most of the electrical things out if the way.

In PET they do list LH & RH subs, but they are the same part number.

This means, based on driving side orientation, they must either;
block-off the unused sub opening
or
not even machine it out.

If the latter, I wonder if all base and GT cars will have the sub opening machined out or not?