Who's tracking their 991
#3
I took mine out to Willow Springs a few weeks ago. The only mods are the RSS spacers. The car handled like a dream. No brake fade. You might want to consider some other tires if you plan on tracking regularly.
#4
I've been to Laguna Seca, Sonoma Raceway, Thunderhill and Buttonwillow with a stock C2S except pads and brake fluid. It is great on the track, but you go through lots of brakes and tires. It is easily worth it though. The car is too capable to just drive on the street if you want to explore its capabilities.
I will do stainless steel brake lines next and probably a second set of wheels and R compound tires after that. Other than that it does not need too much.
I will do stainless steel brake lines next and probably a second set of wheels and R compound tires after that. Other than that it does not need too much.
#5
I've done 15 or so days in the S with rs29 pads, girodisc rotors, and r comps. I don't think sS lines are necessary. I bought them thinking so but never installed them. I'd sell them if someone wants them. Brand new.
#6
I bought the SS lines too and they are still on the shelf in the garage. I will probably put them on just because I have them. After tracking it, they really aren't necessary.
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#8
I tracked my 991 C2S 4 times at DE events. No mods and stock brakes/tires. The only thing I ended up doing after the second event was to change the brake fluid to one that can handle higher temps, a recommended change.
Car was just amazing - as many have said in this and other forums, the technology in this car can make the most novice track driver (i.e. me) go fast, feel fast and safe. It was a sublime experience and I can't wait till the next one.
Car was just amazing - as many have said in this and other forums, the technology in this car can make the most novice track driver (i.e. me) go fast, feel fast and safe. It was a sublime experience and I can't wait till the next one.
#9
I tracked my 991 C2S 4 times at DE events. No mods and stock brakes/tires. The only thing I ended up doing after the second event was to change the brake fluid to one that can handle higher temps, a recommended change.
Car was just amazing - as many have said in this and other forums, the technology in this car can make the most novice track driver (i.e. me) go fast, feel fast and safe. It was a sublime experience and I can't wait till the next one.
Car was just amazing - as many have said in this and other forums, the technology in this car can make the most novice track driver (i.e. me) go fast, feel fast and safe. It was a sublime experience and I can't wait till the next one.
#10
I have 19" Forgeline wheels, an Apex stud kit, and GiroDisc brake rotors. And I don't even have the car yet--should be here in late Feb.
Also planning on Pagid RS29s, Motul fluid, probably Yoko AD08Rs, and a rollbar/seats/harnesses. Looking for safety and reliability on track.
Also planning on Pagid RS29s, Motul fluid, probably Yoko AD08Rs, and a rollbar/seats/harnesses. Looking for safety and reliability on track.
#12
Cold tire pressure is pretty much irrelevant, for the simple fact that tires are only cold when the car is parked. Soon as you start driving, they heat up, eventually stabilize, that's the number you want. Because tires get hotter the harder you work them, and because you'll be working them much harder on the track than on the street, the difference between cold and hot pressures will be even greater. So forget cold. It is what it is. Instead get into the habit of checking tire pressure immediately upon finishing a run. If going by the dash readout then pay attention to the highest readings during the run, and immediately after the run bleed out to where you want to be- 36/40 for example.
Max pressure is important because of the way tires respond to pressure. Below ideal, grip remains high but responsiveness falls off. Above ideal tires are very responsive but grip falls off very rapidly. Its much safer to run a little low than too high.
Then the next day, if you haven't added air on the way home, you can go out and check your cold tire pressure. Which will be way low. Like you would probably never drive on. And you will understand why cold pressure doesn't matter.
Max pressure is important because of the way tires respond to pressure. Below ideal, grip remains high but responsiveness falls off. Above ideal tires are very responsive but grip falls off very rapidly. Its much safer to run a little low than too high.
Then the next day, if you haven't added air on the way home, you can go out and check your cold tire pressure. Which will be way low. Like you would probably never drive on. And you will understand why cold pressure doesn't matter.
#13
10 DE days last season. Stock pads faded noticeably and lasted only 4 days & had to wait until late summer before aftermarket pads available. Remarkable car at the track but am definitely looking for a wheel/tire combo for the track--suggestions appreciated.
#14
I'm not tracking mine. (Hi Porsche USA and [personal info redacted] Insurance Company.) I do love rental cars and PDE.
https://www.porschedriving.com/Sports-Driving.aspx
https://www.porschedriving.com/Sports-Driving.aspx
#15
I just switched to the MPSS and will update tire pressure experiences after a few track days. On the Pirelli's I would use 29-30 psi for the front and 31-32 psi for the rears depending on the temperature. This would usually keep the hot pressure under 40 psi at the rear, which was my goal.
However, as Chuck911 correctly states, this is just a starting point and you may need to make some adjustments while at the track and check them again before driving home. You may need to put some air back in. As a reminder, the "comfort" setting is 31/34 psi.
However, as Chuck911 correctly states, this is just a starting point and you may need to make some adjustments while at the track and check them again before driving home. You may need to put some air back in. As a reminder, the "comfort" setting is 31/34 psi.