Yes, the front cups were on glass, but on the Talon you have a rearward cup, and this one was on paint.
Don't get me wrong, it works great. But I feel better having a rack, specifically with the style of attachment on the 991.

If I had a lighter bike, I'll probably be doing the SeaSucker.

 

Gorgeous car! I too went from a 997 (albeit a .1) to a 991.2 and couldn't be happier. Similar to you, I felt I had done everything I needed and wanted to do with my 997 and was ready for the next chapter in 911 ownership. I made my 997 mechanically and cosmetically close to perfect with the just right amount of tasteful mods (PCCM+, Fister mufflers, Numeric Shifter, DSC Sport Controller, etc). I loved my 997, but the sword of Damocles was always hanging over my head with the risk of bore scoring on those cars, and I was looking for more power. I went to the dark side (PDK) but I have just as much fun driving it.

I swapped out my engine air filter for a BMC air filter last summer and as you know, that is no joke of a project. Having to pull apart the whole a$$ end of the 991.2 to change it vs. popping the engine lid, removing a couple of hoses and wiring harnesses, and just pulling the top of the air box off on the 997 reminded me of how much easier that platform was to work on. It's a small sacrifice, as the 991.2's don't require a whole lot of maintenance and are pretty darn reliable.

I've owned my 991.2 for a year now (took delivery of it exactly one year ago today) and it's been an absolute blast to own and drive.

Enjoy!

 

Helpful info on the racks. Thanks! What's that E-Bike weigh? That could be a big lift up there. I'd be putting a carbon gravel bike on top of mine, very light. I find that just about every MTB trail around me requires dirt road travel and some clearance to get to the trailhead, so the 911 is out for most MTB riding unfortunately. But I love the idea of taking the 911 into the mountains and parking at the end of the pavement for some gravel riding...

I've loved every minute of my 991.2 S. But it's hard not to look around the corner. The 997 is a great size, and it's n/a, and starting to look like a classic (I know that seems crazy, but almost 20 years old now for the .1s!). But reading this post has been an interesting reminder that the grass is not necessarily greener, and your neighbor may be looking admirably at your lawn too. I think it's easy to get caught up in some of the car journalist and podcast punditry about size, normal aspiration, and manuals. Don't get me wrong, small size, light weight, manual, and n/a motor is a divine recipe. But I love the pull and excitement of turbos, the 991 really isn't that much heavier than the 997 for road use, and I very much agree with the statement above that it somehow wraps itself around you and has a small feel, it does not drive like a 2 door Panamera as some critics like to opine (I suspect who have not driven a 991 with a sport oriented setup).

I would like to own a manual 997.2 someday for sure, but today I'm going to go drive my 991 and enjoy every minute of it.

 

i had a 991.1 carrera with the same issue you had with the windshield washer fluid lines, one of the lines cracked at the bend point where the hood closes causing the washer fluid to just squirt out from the crack. Based on a recommendation from a user on here in a thread, i reran all the lines using rubber lines in a kit from amazon instead of purchasing the OE plastic porsche ones. these can bend a million times and shouldnt break. I tied the new lines to the ends of the old ones and pulled them through. Everything worked perfectly after.

Either way you should be good for another 8-10 years with the new OE ones anyway. Beautiful car!

 

Thank you for both of these things

 

Honestly, the only thing I’m missing from my 997 is the steering. The size is a no-brainer (I don’t think about it). I remember this debate back in the 993 days, also the short to long wheel base shift.

the sound could be better (and I will work on it), but an NA that doesn’t rev to 8k is not that interesting either… the 9A1 doesn’t sound *that* great to my ears. A GT car is a different beast though and I would go for that if I could!

All and all, the 991 is such a generational leap in chassis that it dissolves the negatives, for me. If I want to go old school, I’ll buy a 993!

regarding the MTB, it is a 40 pounds baby, but honestly the car is so low, that pulling the bike up is not an issue at all!

 

Some updates here!
As promised, I got rid of this ugly (to me) black color on the wheels.
Went with a local powder coating company for a "Porsche Silver" coating, and I must say I like this spec a lot better!

Also removed the window tint, it was too ghetto for me. Here's the look now:




Next up, as you can see on the pictures, was to upgrade the rubber to Cup 2's, and I absolutely love them:



The feel is much improved, and on the backroads... it is like cheating. If you live in a warm ish climate without crazy rain, I recommend this.
Doig so requuired an aligment, so I asked to maximize front camber, keeping toe minimal (0 is best), and see what I'm working with.



The shop could not get more camber than 1.6, which is way too low for the car to not chew tires on spirited driving.
I will have to work on the suspension components to get more camber (camber plates and control arms).

At the same time (05/30/2025) and 36,840 miles, I had the shop replace the transmission mount. This seemed to be a PITA, and given the time they spent on it, I'm happy I delegated this task...$1,148 down the drain, but the mount was cracked.
The feeling is improved, but I didn't quite got rid of this feeling I was describing in my first post.

Next up, was revising the braking system!

Installation of:

• Girodisc 2-piece rotors, 350mm front and rear (caliper spacer on the rear to go 330 to 350mm).
• Fereodo DS 1.11 pads
• Castrol SRF fluid
• Wheel hub stud conversion

I was able to score a good deal on a mildly used set, and I'm happy I jumped on it.

Pretty fun to do with a QuickJack!


SRF Fluid and my trusty motive bleeder


Nice hardware to play with!





Before: the discs are not in a bad shape, but it is time.


Quite dusty environment, but not too bad! I spend a TON of degreaser to clean this. Therapeutic activity.



Caliper bolt and stud conversion (for the wheels and calipers). I cringe, looking at the grime, but I don't have any "Clean" picture to show.



Rotors installed and bleeding procedure ongoing! Easy with the Foxwell, although you need a friend to push the pedal.


Job done!

All of this for what, you might ask? Track day at Laguna Seca!

I was signed up to run there with HOD 11/02, and it kind of made my year. The car performed flawlessly, organization was amazing, super nice coach... I'm really happy I did all of the above to get a perfect day. Some more pics below:

















Now, I'm preparing the rest of my life I sent the car to be checked at Beeline Motor Club in Santa Cruz, awesome guys to check and plan:

• Coilovers with PASM functionality: Probably Nitron Elec-tron R1 (I had this brand on a Lotus and I loved them. Come with camber plates too).
• Lower control arms (adjustable), as mine start to show wear on the rubber: Elephant Racing
• Potentially the Toe arms as well, depending on what is found during replacement.

Also, found that my PADM mounts might be shot... The weird feeling I have with vibration vs. solid feedback of my 997.2 might come from this. I have no fault stored or error on the dash, but the shop agrees that something is not optimal.
I 've ordered some static mounts, to see if this solves the issue. If it does, I'll have the PADM coded out, and I can work on rebuilding my active mounts for later (or resell). I honestly don't care for this feature.
Should be a great holidays DIY.

More to come, happy holidays Rennlist!

 

Quick update here, leveraging the break to tackle some stuff.

First, a 991 would not be complete without weak hood struts. So I decided to order some from FCP in case (when) they fail.
Quick easy fix, same part as OEM:



Now, the thing that bothered me since buying this car, which I believe is coming from the active mounts.
Decision made to go with static mounts (OEM) and code out the PADM message. Let's go:



my trusted assistant helping me once more. I'll skip all of the bumper / tail lights / spoiler removal as they are pretty well covered (thank you Pelican for the nice write ups!)



View of the mount from the top. First jack up the engine (just support it), use a sturdy piece of wood to not stress the plastic oil pan. Then remove the bottom 18mm nut, and the two e17 (I believe) screws. The mount can be removed without removing anything else but it is a PITA. the housing seen on the lef of this picture is interfering. See the difference in size below:



PADM mount on the right, Static mount on the left... Weight savings! I will open the active mount to see if there is anything weird with it. I have a feeling it is "tired" which is interesting, as I believe these do not have any rubber, just ferromagnetic fluid.




New mount ready to be torqued. 23 N.m for the top screws and 86 N.m for the 18mm nut. All new hardware of course.




Both mounts replaced, now reassembling the bumper / lights. spoiler...




All done, all clean, feelin' good!




Of course, warning lights galore...




This one was expected.



Tried playing with this setting in the PASM module, reverting to PASM -10 (without the PADM function), but it popped a PASM and headlight failure. I was a bit scared but able to revert to normal. oof!



Playing again with coding, I found this setting in the instrument cluster, which basically prevents the fault to be displayed on the dash. This seems to be the ticket, as coding out PADM seems tricky, unless you have a DSC controller. It seems a specific version of PIWIS is needed (not the latest). The fault can be present and doesn't affect anything (PASM / PSM etc.)



BIG SUCCESS! no fault, all good

After driving just around in the city, the car feels more solid. No more weid after shake in the steering wheel. What was bothering me is gone, I'm happy.
I have to drive on the highway to validate the experiment, and open these mounts to understand what happened.

Advice: Your PADM mounts could be tired and not displaying a fault. If you fell the car a bit "loose", particularily at the steering wheel (it is SUBTLE but I'm paranoid), it might be worth going with static mounts.

Oh,and I also coded the true water temp values with the NT530, amazing little gizmo!

See you Rennlist!

EDIT: checked the mounts themselves, I was surprised at first to see nothing out of the ordinary on the PCB side. This is where they fail (liquid penetrates through the sensors and damages the PCB, leading to a loss of signal and a fault).




Nothing wrong on either mount, dry as new. Weird.
Checking the box I used to store the mount, suspicious stain…





Flipping the mount upside down, yep this is coming from the mount. I’m not sure this is supposed to leak like that… Little bit less on the other side but still some leaking happening, albeit more watery, as if the fluid was contaminated with water.




Interestingly, the values for pressure and current (both signals monitored for PADM) were still within spec, as I had no fault. This means the mounts can indeed start to fail without you knowing about it. Happy I did all of this, my suspicion is confirmed!

 

Some updates here!

I had the opportunity to go to 2 track days at Laguna Seca, which really cemented the saying "there is no substitute".
Nothing better than removing the child booster seats, loading the tools in the frunk, driving to the track, having a blast, and driving back home.

First things first, some maintenance (oil change) at 40,855Mi. Oil was sent to Speediagnostix for analysis, pending results.
I used again Driven FR50:

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My little helper always around



The oil was not looking bad at all, but will be sent for analysis anyway.
Oil filter, cabin filter, belt will come after the racetrack, alongside the first mods.

Couple of pics from Laguna, the day was amazing and great org with Lightspeed:






One thing I know now: The car is way too soft. Too much body roll, too much diving under braking.
After reading, reading, and more reading, I have the following coming:

• Eibach sway bars F&R: Coming in the next few days, will be the next job. Air filter, maintenance, and installing these.
• Nitron Elec-Tron R1, PASM-compatible dampers with 130/160 springs and DSC controller. Come with adjustable camber plates. Thank you @4 Point 0 for all of your posts. It really helped me cross some mental barriers about stiffness. By the way, what would you say is the max camber you would accept on the street?
• Soon after this, going to Nankang CS-R tires and see if I can live with them.

Only issue I have is the wait time (8 weeks) for the shocks, but I loved them on the Elise platform, and they are at a much more tolerable price than the comparable Tractive (even though I can accept the Tractive are maybe better).

Peace!