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I had the same problem a few weeks ago. Trickle charger/maintainer didn't do the job. I used regular jumper cables hooked up to my X3, frunk popped open immediately. I don't think these chargers have enough juice. Charger juiced the battery overnight, back to normal. Try that before removing your bumper.
A regular charger with 10amp output didn't work either, even after a couple days. I tested its output with a volt/ohm meter to make sure it was working correctly.
A super-high output charger, say 50amp, wasn't available to try so I had to use the intervening battery method.
Get a thin metal probe and grab it with the positive cable to a jump starter. Connect negative to ground. Then touch the probe to the tiny "test" hole on a 50 amp fuse. Frunk will open.
That sounds like the mother of all bad ideas it could be a little tricky. You could energize a circuit that isn't supposed to be live until the ignition is on. Prepare for unforeseen consequences....
Thanks, since I was able to get the frunk to finally release after days of sporadic "charging" through the fuse box port, I just replaced the battery completely. I saw the battery was last replaced just a shade over 4 years old so it was time. EverStart AGM H6 from the WalMart just down the road seemed to be a form/fit/function replacement and carries a 4 year warranty. Had to get a socket extension and a deep 13mm socket from Harbour Freight so I could get the hidden nut for the battery strap but it was a fairly quick job once I had the frunk open.
The car came with a battery tender so I'm just making it a habit to put the tender on whenever I park it in the garage for when I have long periods of driving my other vehicles. Not something I'm used to having to do but none of my prior vehicles had the parasitic draw that this seems to.
As an aside, I noticed a light comes on in the frunk and does not go out unless the frunk is closed COMPLETELY (so technically, I don't know that it ever goes out, just that I can't see it anymore). I'm somewhat surprised it doesn't have a timer to go off and doesn't go off when the frunk is all but latched down.
That light should time out via the front computer. But the timer is long ... 30 minutes IIRC.
As for parasitic draw, speaking from the 997 world, there are three basic storage modes ...
1. Doors unlocked, alarm off.
2. Alarm full on.
3. Entry alarm on, motion sensing off.
1 uses the most energy. 2 is reached by using the fob button to lock the car. 3 is obtained by a second press of the lock button and uses the least energy.
In either modes 2 or 3 the car will go to sleep after a certain number of days. This uses the least power, but requires the key to open the door and then you must start the car immediately or the alarm will activate.
I installed a battery monitor on my car that isolates the battery if the voltage drops below 12. A button on the corner of the windshield keys me reconnect the battery to start the car, or open the frunk. I always have ample charge to start the car, although I may need to reset the window limits.
That light should time out via the front computer. But the timer is long ... 30 minutes IIRC.
As for parasitic draw, speaking from the 997 world, there are three basic storage modes ...
1. Doors unlocked, alarm off.
2. Alarm full on.
3. Entry alarm on, motion sensing off.
1 uses the most energy. 2 is reached by using the fob button to lock the car. 3 is obtained by a second press of the lock button and uses the least energy.
In either modes 2 or 3 the car will go to sleep after a certain number of days. This uses the least power, but requires the key to open the door and then you must start the car immediately or the alarm will activate.
I installed a battery monitor on my car that isolates the battery if the voltage drops below 12. A button on the corner of the windshield keys me reconnect the battery to start the car, or open the frunk. I always have ample charge to start the car, although I may need to reset the window limits.
The 3 modes you mentioned, it seems to me that 1 would be the least power draw. What is remaining energized after the car’s walk-away timer is reached? If the alarm is off in this mode and on in mode 2/3, then something else must be maintaining a draw.
i never lock my car in my home garage, maybe that needs to be reconsidered?
Of course, being in a 991 forum vs. a 997 forum, I am referring to a 991
Last edited by Rumble-Bee; 09-13-2024 at 01:19 AM.
Full disclosure, I haven't measured the parasitic draw in my car. There are some very intelligent people on the 997 Forum whom I have full confidence in. The information comes from them.
I have managed to release the frunk with a dead battery using the fuse jumper in the fuse panel by the driver side foot panel.
coincidentally, this past weekend, I decided to find this elusive cable in the front wheel well and will be posting a video about it soon. I agree that this would not be easy to get to without having the wheel removed, but it does seem like there are people who have done this. my guess is that if you can jack the front wheel up off the ground, then the wheel might lower sufficiently give you clearer access to remove at least the top part of the liner to get to this cable. I just took this picture over the weekend and you could see where I circled the cable.
before I put the wheel liner back, I drilled a small hole and rigged it so that this would never become a problem for me. Hopefully I never need to use it.
On my RX-7 'snapping' the wire to the release was not uncommon.
I added a second wire that I hid behind the front bumper but was accessible to avoid dealing with this issue. Haven't had to use it yet....
Like your idea , except might add a grommet, or just extend the wire to another place versus bringing it through the liner.
Tenders need to see the battery before they will supply energy. If the battery is fully dead the tender may not turn on. Even if the tender sees the battery it might take several hours to raise the voltage far enough to get the electronics working.
09-10-2024 | 04:49 PM
, except might add a grommet, or just extend the wire to another place versus bringing it through the liner.
