Ksdaoski

Thanks TT!

​​​​​​ It's great you got out there and used your car! I encourage you to continue! However it's addictive and don't tell anyone about the price of consumables! lol


Seriously I see people complain about their cars, "it's too bumpy, too loud, too XYZ" only to find out they never even actually use them properly! Nicely done!

TX991.2

before you go through a major expense with brakes, get Motul 600 fluid and steel brake lines (I don’t know if 991 has steel or not). Add decent track pads and your braking should vastly improve. I did this to my s2000 which has crap brakes. High temp fluid, steel lines and Project Mu track pads and it was fantastic.

Tier1Terrier

That's exactly what I plan to do as my next step. With just over 20k miles, my rotors appear to be in good condition still. I'm not yet ready for a 'bigger' brake kit. I figure that better fluid (now thinking Castrol SRF or Motul RBF 650 nstead of Motul 600), and better pads (either Ferodo DS3.12 or 2500) ought to provide some improvement on my next track session. I want to be cognizant of the fact that my car is still going to be primarily street focused. I don't mind dust but I don't want screeching or squealing brakes. I understand that one good track session might help with that, so maybe I swap my current setup right before my next track session. Haven't given much thought to the steel brake lines but I won't rule them out. I just don't think that will affect performance at my level of driving/usage.

enzotcat

With 90+F temperatures and DOT 4 brake fluid, you're almost certainly going to experience brake fade on a track with a tuned 911 and stock brakes. When I upgraded the turbos on my C2S and tracked it with stock brakes, I destroyed the brakes - they literally disintegrated - after 3 20 minute sessions, and had to leave early to have a prayer of getting home. Stock brakes + tuned car + high track temperatures + DOT 4 fluid is not a recipe for reliable stopping. If you're going to make a "habit" of tracking, I'd strongly recommend that you upgrade your brake fluid, brake lines and brake pads at a minimum. Motul RBF or Endless Racing fluid are good choices. The steel braided lines will help with keeping the temperatures down a little, and help with better brake pedal feel. You'll find that at least initially the DS2500 are good enough; the DS 3.12 squeal a lot on the road and if you're driving it outside of a track environment, that can get old really quickly. Also, because they're more dedicated track pads, their cold braking performance is not great.

Hank Cohn

@Tier1Terrier , Your driving looked great for your experience level. Listening to other people can be beneficial and you want to take care to build solid fundamentals. I've not raced in quite a wile at this point and there are likely even better books around, however, if still available, I found the book Going Faster! to be very helpful in building mental models for what I wanted to accomplish on track. You have some very good take-aways from your sessions. One experience you will have over time is that you will brake harder but a lot less. Brakes are just another resource that you will learn to use and conserve during a session. Great driving and fun write-up!

Hank

4 Point 0

TT, congrats on the track bug biting.

Castrol SRF will serve you well. I boiled the stock fluid in my car on the street in the first week of ownership from brand new. Switched to SRF, never boiled it ever.

34 hot rear is fine, but drop the front 3-4 lower than rear.
So 30/34 Hot is way better than 34/34.

Tyres make massive difference to braking, handling and times. Normal Cup2 or CR-S are awesome all rounders.

The normal cup2 is not a track tyre as most on Rennlist believe. It has quite a soft sidewall. But it is significantly better on the track than PS4S.

Braided lines will surprise you with pedal feel.

It comes down to knowing that you will buy a BBK. So do you waste money on pads and lines or bite the bullet and get the BBK that will come with lines.

I guess it depends on how much life of your rotors are left if you want to use that up with new pads and lines. Regardless you absolutely need to do the fluid.

100/140 Spring rate is the best all rounder rate that will significantly improve your tracking and steering.
Braking and turning will be significantly improved. Car no longer nose diving.

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

Tier1Terrier

All solid recommendations. Plan is to start with fluid, pads, and new lines. My Rotors are good enough for one more set of pads. By the time the rotors wear out, then comes bbk. I like making small incremental steps. It allows me to enjoy each step along the way for a while.

cbredesen

With factory PASM dampers?

4 Point 0

You car sits on its springs, but rides on its dampers.

Can you add 100/140 to stock dampers? Yes, of course you can. However your experience will not be the same as someone who buys coilovers that are valved to those rates.

it’s my experience that the valves are more like commute, sport, track. Rather than many graduations. Or soft, sport, track.

You could have 5 different cars all with 100/140 and 5 different rides. Whilst handling would be similar, comfort level would vary considerably.

It is repeated that you can have comfort or great handling, but not both. Well, you cannot have both cheaply. If you want no compromise, it costs considerably more, for example Tractive suspension with DSC. It will gove you the best of all worlds and allow much higher spring rates without destroying your ride.