itbme

Originally, I just swapped in the popular Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 with a 10uF cap for ~4k cutoff.
This did sound a bit better than the horribly distorted Bose tweeters, but it didn't sound good.
Very sibilant and just way too loud overall.

Running another sweep, I saw that the tweeter was 4-6db louder than the rest of the system.

Reducing treble on the head unit doesn’t solve it because it also affects the midrange and creates a huge bad-sounding hole in the sound.


To get the tweeters to a reasonable level, a massive hole is carved out at 1-4k. To summarize:
The problem is the same, the bass just sounds a little louder. When you throw road noise in the mix, it sounds even worse.
On top of that, I get the feeling the simple cap as a crossover isn't filtering properly. Tweeter sounds like it breaks up a bit.

There's a few ways to deal with this.

1, Just swap the polarity on the tweeters.
This can make them blend into your system a bit better. Won't fix an improper crossover, but it can help. I found that this helped a bit in this setup.

2. Attenuation. An l-pad (series+parallel resistor after the crossover) can drop the tweeter levels a bit.

3. A proper crossover. Or at least, something better than a single cap.

I decided to go with #2 and #3. I built a 2nd order crossover (linkwitz-riley) with 4k as the target, and a -3db Lpad. Designed and printed a simple enclosure for them.




The next problem: There's no damn room in the dash. So, I took a 4 wire in-wall speaker cable. R+B connect with a factory connector. R+B, G+W connect at the crossover. Then G+W connect at the tweeter up top.
On the passenger side I was able to use heavy duty nano tape and attach it in the footwell. On the drivers side, I used velcro straps to attach under the dash.




The above graph is a measurement of just the right channel.
Red: Note, especially comparead to 2k-5k, how hot 5k+ is by comparison. Especially around 6500, which is a very sibilant range.
Blue: 2k+ is, more or less, pretty flat.

Improvements? Sounds less distorted. Way less listening fatigue. Knocked out most of the sibilance.

Should you do it? If you want. You can just buy a Datyon 4k 4ohm crossover and toss it in a box.

Remaining issues: The midrange in the car is terrible. Maybe some day I'll find a nice dome midrange that will blend well with the system and make a bandpass filter for it.
I'm investigating Dayton Audio RS52AN-8. Not sure it will fit yet. I think the car may be sending 2k-4k to the existing midrange. Next time I have the doors off maybe.

I might also try the Tymphany OT19NC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter, after I get more listening time on this,

Jack F

Keep us posted. I have a feeling one thing will lead to another. And then another. And then another. Always fun to see what can be done when you the knowledge base and the ears to appreciate. For many of us, swapping out the Bose makes the audio so much more useable. My hearing is less than great and with the 12” rears the GTS is loud enough that trying to make the sound system awesome just wouldn’t make much sense. Keep us posted on how things turn out!

itbme

will do! I used to do very extensive car audio systems but I’ve pretty much moved to 2.1 home audio.
trying to keep this low key

itbme

Made another significant improvement in the audio system, and totally by accident.

I was trying swapping the polarity on the new tweeter setup, and noticed when I grabbed the interior handle, the sound was slightly less bad.
The car has a tendency to "shout" with a static hissiness, especially if you're listening to metal. It's something you get when reflections on the speaker are really bad.
I mistakenly thought this harshness was the windshield.
Nope.

I played some metal, lots of heavy guitar, cymbals, etc. Physically painful.
covered both midrangse with my hands and tried a bunch of music: Painful sound gone, but also midrange detail lost. (net gain.)

Grabbed some thinsulate and shoved it in front of the midranges.

Most of the painful harshness was gone. Slight impact to midrange detail.





When I get a chance, I'm going to crack the door panel open again and fix a set of these to the inside of the door panel.
There's a chance it might interfere with the midrange cone, so I'll have to see what i can do.

I didn't run a sweep on it because lazy. But to the ears, it's a huge improvement.

I need to open the doors up to address some bass rattles I failed to stop anyway.

Contadino

I did the Dayton tweeter install a few years ago. If I get the Datyon 4k 4ohm crossover would I remove the capacitor I added? And then just connect the input wires to one side of the board and the wires to the tweeter to the other?
is that all I would need to do?
Thanks



itbme;19511347]Originally, I just swapped in the popular Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 with a 10uF cap for ~4k cutoff.
This did sound a bit better than the horribly distorted Bose tweeters, but it didn't sound good.
Very sibilant and just way too loud overall.

Running another sweep, I saw that the tweeter was 4-6db louder than the rest of the system.

Reducing treble on the head unit doesn’t solve it because it also affects the midrange and creates a huge bad-sounding hole in the sound.


To get the tweeters to a reasonable level, a massive hole is carved out at 1-4k. To summarize:
The problem is the same, the bass just sounds a little louder. When you throw road noise in the mix, it sounds even worse.
On top of that, I get the feeling the simple cap as a crossover isn't filtering properly. Tweeter sounds like it breaks up a bit.

There's a few ways to deal with this.

1, Just swap the polarity on the tweeters.
This can make them blend into your system a bit better. Won't fix an improper crossover, but it can help. I found that this helped a bit in this setup.

2. Attenuation. An l-pad (series+parallel resistor after the crossover) can drop the tweeter levels a bit.

3. A proper crossover. Or at least, something better than a single cap.

I decided to go with #2 and #3. I built a 2nd order crossover (linkwitz-riley) with 4k as the target, and a -3db Lpad. Designed and printed a simple enclosure for them.




The next problem: There's no damn room in the dash. So, I took a 4 wire in-wall speaker cable. R+B connect with a factory connector. R+B, G+W connect at the crossover. Then G+W connect at the tweeter up top.
On the passenger side I was able to use heavy duty nano tape and attach it in the footwell. On the drivers side, I used velcro straps to attach under the dash.




The above graph is a measurement of just the right channel.
Red: Note, especially comparead to 2k-5k, how hot 5k+ is by comparison. Especially around 6500, which is a very sibilant range.
Blue: 2k+ is, more or less, pretty flat.

Improvements? Sounds less distorted. Way less listening fatigue. Knocked out most of the sibilance.

Should you do it? If you want. You can just buy a Datyon 4k 4ohm crossover and toss it in a box.

Remaining issues: The midrange in the car is terrible. Maybe some day I'll find a nice dome midrange that will blend well with the system and make a bandpass filter for it.
I'm investigating Dayton Audio RS52AN-8. Not sure it will fit yet. I think the car may be sending 2k-4k to the existing midrange. Next time I have the doors off maybe.

I might also try the Tymphany OT19NC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter, after I get more listening time on this,[/QUOTE]

itbme

yep that’s right keep in mind the biggest difference is it’s going to cut it off a little more sharply. you won’t get the bump reduction.

You’ll have to find somewhere creative to put it as well as a box so it doesn’t short out.

Though honestly before messing with that try covering the mids up a little bit with some foam and see what happens.