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After reading some of the disasters on RL where a member is snapping off the threaded portion of the threads from the main body of the spark plug, a bit of time now can save you a much bigger headache later. The plugs might have been faulty, but I have never seen that happen in over 50 years of wrenching.
Thought about that when I remember the glow plug removal info specifying a maximum removal torque on a VW TDI diesel. A lack of maintenance on their part had many of them cursing since those glow plug bodies are thin and fragile.
After reading some of the disasters on RL where a member is snapping off the threaded portion of the threads from the main body of the spark plug, a bit of time now can save you a much bigger headache later. The plugs might have been faulty, but I have never seen that happen in over 50 years of wrenching.
Thought about that when I remember the glow plug removal info specifying a maximum removal torque on a VW TDI diesel. A lack of maintenance on their part had many of them cursing since those glow plug bodies are thin and fragile.
Proper sockets make a big difference, combined with proper work methods.
In 60 years of wrenching, the only time I was worried removing a plug was on my 997.2. The combination of aluminum head and creaking had me panicking. At one point, I decided to reverse the ratchet, hoping a bit of in and out would be beneficial. That was a major error!!! Without a cleaning channel like a tap has, reversing the direction gave no help.
Having hand tapped thousands of holes, my thought is that the sacrificial coating was chunking off and jamming the threads. It may be that those plugs were defective. Or maybe they are different than the 991, and time plays a different role.
I've seen the same thing on enough 997s at this point based on age vs. trouble to be biased. On the other 997s since then that have creaked, I've just accepted this as the way it is and got through the job. But I don't like it!!!
OTOH, I've seen enough people disagree regarding time here that I'm wondering if there is a difference between the 997 and the 991. Definitely, the price for a set of plugs recently posted here doesn't align with any price I've seen for the 997s.
I've started reading the 991 Forum because a friend swapped his 997 GTS for a 991.1 TTS. I'm here to learn. It's always good to hear multiple viewpoints.
The combination of aluminum head and creaking had me panicking. At one point, I decided to reverse the ratchet, hoping a bit of in and out would be beneficial. That was a major error!!!
On the other 997s since then that have creaked, I've just accepted this as the way it is and got through the job. But I don't like it!!!
Next time try some anti-seize on the full length of the threads and just apply a flash coating, not gobs of it to hide the threads. I do not use the coarse brush in the cap; it gets removed. I use an artists brush. Do it on one plug and see if there is a difference. I use it all the time on all 12 plugs in the 993 and the 6 in my 991. Also, they should thread in by hand all the way till they make contact with the seal. No resistance should be felt.
According to Bosch: Nickel-plated rolled threads provide superior resistance to corrosion and do not require anti-seize - saving time.
I did not see a warning not to use anti-seize.
Don't know if they are the same on the OP's car, but my 2015 991.1 GTS takes Bosch FGR5NQE04.
I bought 7 of them at Pelican Parts for under $6 each.
Next time try some anti-seize on the full length of the threads and just apply a flash coating, not gobs of it to hide the threads. I do not use the coarse brush in the cap; it gets removed. I use an artists brush. Do it on one plug and see if there is a difference. I use it all the time on all 12 plugs in the 993 and the 6 in my 991. Also, they should thread in by hand all the way till they make contact with the seal. No resistance should be felt.
According to Bosch: Nickel-plated rolled threads provide superior resistance to corrosion and do not require anti-seize - saving time.
I did not see a warning not to use anti-seize.
Don't know if they are the same on the OP's car, but my 2015 991.1 GTS takes Bosch FGR5NQE04.
I bought 7 of them at Pelican Parts for under $6 each.
Good news on the NGK plating but the problem is often the condition and friction characteristics of the thread in the head (as Peter says). Re the reduction in friction and the effect on torque, again as Peter says the main friction is generated in the washer crush. I would not put compound on that surface.
Kopr-Kote is electrically conductive when torqued up in the thread.. It is a mixture of copper flakes and graphite in a grease base - about 50/50 solids grease. Main negative of its use is when people get overenthuiastic and get it into the electrode gap. Does not help with generation of a spark.
Meanwhile, the last plugs I bought were Porsche part number 999-170-130-90 @ $19.72 each. That was with a 25% discount. The actual plug was Bosch FGR5NQE04 ... same as yours. My last order with Pelican Parts cost me as much in shipping as in parts so I've avoided them. Guess I need to rethink that!!!
The plugs are cheap as well…total cost about $26 and 1/2hr out of a Saturday afternoon.
You are FAST!
Took me 30 minutes to get car on the quick jacks, pull wheels and safe with stands. Figure two hours to pull covers, coils, plugs and check plug gaps, dielectric grease and reinstall all.
I had these tables on my site and thought I would post.
This one is from the Porsche Service Manual. Nothing is mentioned, but I would assume that the increase in the initial tightening torque takes into account the flattening of the sealing washer on the spark plug. I usually loosen and then apply the second tightening torque minus a reduction due to anti-seize.
And this from the Bosch Spark Plug manual. Note our plug reach "l" is 26.5 mm. I also reduce the torque as specified due to anti-seize use.
And after all that, in 50+ years of spark plug replacement in motorcycles and cars, I have yet to strip or damage a spark plug thread in a cylinder head.
Took me 30 minutes to get car on the quick jacks, pull wheels and safe with stands. Figure two hours to pull covers, coils, plugs and check plug gaps, dielectric grease and reinstall all.
It might even take me longer with the Centerlocks (disassembling and cleaning them, re-coating them as I am ultra picky). Besides, working on anything is mental therapy in my books. The front two plugs require removing the electronic sensor that is in the way.
I had these tables on my site and thought I would post.
This one is from the Porsche Service Manual. Nothing is mentioned, but I would assume that the increase in the initial tightening torque takes into account the flattening of the sealing washer on the spark plug. I usually loosen and then apply the second tightening torque minus a reduction due to anti-seize.
And this from the Bosch Spark Plug manual. Note our plug reach "l" is 26.5 mm. I also reduce the torque as specified due to anti-seize use.
And after all that, in 50+ years of spark plug replacement in motorcycles and cars, I have yet to strip or damage a spark plug thread in a cylinder head.
05-28-2024 | 01:56 PM
