New 911.2 Owner - Android auto, brakes, etc.
#1
New 911.2 Owner - Android auto, brakes, etc.
Hi everyone, have a CPO 2019 GTS RWD Cab and I have a bunch of random questions...
1) I have found MANY threads about enabling android auto on this car. My car has carplay but I have an android phone. Its hard to tell what is the current options because things evolved over the years. I ordered the Ottocast x2 as recommended by many people but don't have high hopes based on all the problems people have had, not sure if current firmware works. I have found some people recommending paying a member but then I also found multiple posts on the internet on how it can be done with just an SD card. Also found a github repo by harman-f that looks promising. Is there a reason I would pay to have this done when it seems freely available to anyone with an SD card and some minor technical skill? If I want reliable android auto am I going to have to do the mod? Please help point me in the right direction for best option in 2024.
2) My car makes a fairly loud high pitch noise when i turn it off coming from the engine area. Goes away after maybe 5 minutes or so, is this normal?
3) my brake pads were "60%" according to the dealer. they work great but its driving me insane that they squeal every time i use them at low speed. my brakes announce me arriving into my neighborhood more than my exhaust. My sales rep said i just arent gettign them hot enough but they arent ceramic rotors, idk if the pads are ceramic.
Thanks everyone.
1) I have found MANY threads about enabling android auto on this car. My car has carplay but I have an android phone. Its hard to tell what is the current options because things evolved over the years. I ordered the Ottocast x2 as recommended by many people but don't have high hopes based on all the problems people have had, not sure if current firmware works. I have found some people recommending paying a member but then I also found multiple posts on the internet on how it can be done with just an SD card. Also found a github repo by harman-f that looks promising. Is there a reason I would pay to have this done when it seems freely available to anyone with an SD card and some minor technical skill? If I want reliable android auto am I going to have to do the mod? Please help point me in the right direction for best option in 2024.
2) My car makes a fairly loud high pitch noise when i turn it off coming from the engine area. Goes away after maybe 5 minutes or so, is this normal?
3) my brake pads were "60%" according to the dealer. they work great but its driving me insane that they squeal every time i use them at low speed. my brakes announce me arriving into my neighborhood more than my exhaust. My sales rep said i just arent gettign them hot enough but they arent ceramic rotors, idk if the pads are ceramic.
Thanks everyone.
#2
1) I did the mibroot hack on my 991.2's PCM4. There's a big thread about it but it's lacking some information and requires some programming chops to figure out. @simaservis1108 was, last I checked, the go-to person to just do this remotely for you. There have been improvements to the DIY process that sounded like it makes it way easier to do, but I haven't kept up. There are github repos about it, I'm sure you can find what you need searching 'mib2 hack' and stuff on the googles.
2) Record a video, post it to youtube, and link it here. I'd guess it's a failure of a check valve in your evap system, or perhaps your gas cap. Try opening your gas cap next time it's happening -- if it hisses loudly then stops the high pitch noise, you probably have an evap problem!
3) It's a common complaint, the owners manual also outlines that this is totally normal. There isn't really a permanent solution, it's just a byproduct of the size of the pads and rotors. Some people find that certain pad/rotor combinations make it quieter, but it never truly goes away. Go on an empty road and brake from 60 to 30 very hard 2 or 3 times, then drive for at least a few minutes at speed so they can cool off before you sit at a stoplight or stop sign with the hot brake pads just clamping against the hot rotors for an extended period. This will fix it for a week or so.
Welcome to Rennlist!
2) Record a video, post it to youtube, and link it here. I'd guess it's a failure of a check valve in your evap system, or perhaps your gas cap. Try opening your gas cap next time it's happening -- if it hisses loudly then stops the high pitch noise, you probably have an evap problem!
3) It's a common complaint, the owners manual also outlines that this is totally normal. There isn't really a permanent solution, it's just a byproduct of the size of the pads and rotors. Some people find that certain pad/rotor combinations make it quieter, but it never truly goes away. Go on an empty road and brake from 60 to 30 very hard 2 or 3 times, then drive for at least a few minutes at speed so they can cool off before you sit at a stoplight or stop sign with the hot brake pads just clamping against the hot rotors for an extended period. This will fix it for a week or so.
Welcome to Rennlist!
#3
1) I did the mibroot hack on my 991.2's PCM4. There's a big thread about it but it's lacking some information and requires some programming chops to figure out. @simaservis1108 was, last I checked, the go-to person to just do this remotely for you. There have been improvements to the DIY process that sounded like it makes it way easier to do, but I haven't kept up. There are github repos about it, I'm sure you can find what you need searching 'mib2 hack' and stuff on the googles.
2) Record a video, post it to youtube, and link it here. I'd guess it's a failure of a check valve in your evap system, or perhaps your gas cap. Try opening your gas cap next time it's happening -- if it hisses loudly then stops the high pitch noise, you probably have an evap problem!
3) It's a common complaint, the owners manual also outlines that this is totally normal. There isn't really a permanent solution, it's just a byproduct of the size of the pads and rotors. Some people find that certain pad/rotor combinations make it quieter, but it never truly goes away. Go on an empty road and brake from 60 to 30 very hard 2 or 3 times, then drive for at least a few minutes at speed so they can cool off before you sit at a stoplight or stop sign with the hot brake pads just clamping against the hot rotors for an extended period. This will fix it for a week or so.
Welcome to Rennlist!
2) Record a video, post it to youtube, and link it here. I'd guess it's a failure of a check valve in your evap system, or perhaps your gas cap. Try opening your gas cap next time it's happening -- if it hisses loudly then stops the high pitch noise, you probably have an evap problem!
3) It's a common complaint, the owners manual also outlines that this is totally normal. There isn't really a permanent solution, it's just a byproduct of the size of the pads and rotors. Some people find that certain pad/rotor combinations make it quieter, but it never truly goes away. Go on an empty road and brake from 60 to 30 very hard 2 or 3 times, then drive for at least a few minutes at speed so they can cool off before you sit at a stoplight or stop sign with the hot brake pads just clamping against the hot rotors for an extended period. This will fix it for a week or so.
Welcome to Rennlist!
Here is the video that shows the sound:
Last edited by mark_rossi; 05-18-2024 at 12:46 PM.
#5
Why did you deecide to do the MIB hack over the Ottocast?
How did you perform the MIB Hack? Which did you use?
thanks
#6
I already ordered one from Amazon prime and I think I prefer that because I can easily return it and get my money back if I dont like the way it works.
Why did you deecide to do the MIB hack over the Ottocast?
How did you perform the MIB Hack? Which did you use?
thanks
Why did you deecide to do the MIB hack over the Ottocast?
How did you perform the MIB Hack? Which did you use?
thanks
These are MY experiences and others did not have some of the issues I had.
As for the MIB hack, I believe there's only 1, done through an SD card, found here: https://github.com/Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._...ncredible-Bash
MIB wiki: https://github.com/Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._...---install-mib
I used 2 different Ottocast units while on my AA adventure. I'll break it down for you below. Long story short, I prefer the MIB Hack along with Ottocast.
Prior to doing the MIB Hack, I bought Ottocast U2-X Pro and it coverts Carplay into AA.
The Good
Easy to use - plug into center console
Virtually plug and play
The Bad (my experience)
No charging via center console
Carplay warning pops up on the screen about 40% of the time
Once connected, if you turned off the car and walk away for a second (like at a gas station), Ottocast would not reconnect. Sometimes you had to unplug it and/or turn off/on Bluetooth to get it to reconnect
Every time the proximity sensors went off, it kicked me out of AA and then was hard to reconnect (see above).
Aggressive Bluetooth connection (more on that below)
After the MIB Hack, AA was wired only. I used it this way for awhile and it was seamless. What I missed was the wireless auto-connect and the center console was a SLOOOOW charge. I don't believe the hack offers a wireless option.
After the MIB Hack, I used this Ottocast unit for wireless AA -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Good
Easy to use - plug into center console
Virtually plug and play
Wireless AUTO CONNECT!
Used a cig lighter fast charger
No pop up issues
No proximity sensor issue
No reconnection issues
The Bad (my experience)
Aggressive Bluetooth connection (more on that below)
Aggressive Bluetooth connection - with both Ottocast units, if you park your car close enough to your living quarters, the Ottocast unit will try to reconnect with your phone for about the 30 min after you park & turn off your car. You can either manually turn off BT on your phone or have your phone automatically turn it off via the Modes & Routines area of your phone. If you use BT through your phone at home (i.e. headset), it will be up to your what is best for you.
Regarding the MIB Hack, it was pretty easy. As long as you have a full battery charge, you should be good. If you want to be extra cautious, put it on a battery charger.
Prior to doing the MIB Hack, I bought Ottocast U2-X Pro and it coverts Carplay into AA.
The Good
Easy to use - plug into center console
Virtually plug and play
The Bad (my experience)
No charging via center console
Carplay warning pops up on the screen about 40% of the time
Once connected, if you turned off the car and walk away for a second (like at a gas station), Ottocast would not reconnect. Sometimes you had to unplug it and/or turn off/on Bluetooth to get it to reconnect
Every time the proximity sensors went off, it kicked me out of AA and then was hard to reconnect (see above).
Aggressive Bluetooth connection (more on that below)
After the MIB Hack, AA was wired only. I used it this way for awhile and it was seamless. What I missed was the wireless auto-connect and the center console was a SLOOOOW charge. I don't believe the hack offers a wireless option.
After the MIB Hack, I used this Ottocast unit for wireless AA -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Good
Easy to use - plug into center console
Virtually plug and play
Wireless AUTO CONNECT!
Used a cig lighter fast charger
No pop up issues
No proximity sensor issue
No reconnection issues
The Bad (my experience)
Aggressive Bluetooth connection (more on that below)
Aggressive Bluetooth connection - with both Ottocast units, if you park your car close enough to your living quarters, the Ottocast unit will try to reconnect with your phone for about the 30 min after you park & turn off your car. You can either manually turn off BT on your phone or have your phone automatically turn it off via the Modes & Routines area of your phone. If you use BT through your phone at home (i.e. headset), it will be up to your what is best for you.
Regarding the MIB Hack, it was pretty easy. As long as you have a full battery charge, you should be good. If you want to be extra cautious, put it on a battery charger.
Last edited by Got Bearings?; 05-18-2024 at 02:00 PM.
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911T4ME (05-19-2024)
#7
I sent this in a PM to someone else asking my about AA. I have since switched from the wireless AA Ottocast dongle to AAWireless one (link below). The BT is not as aggressive and would recommend it over the Ottocast version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B71XC7VG...roduct_details
These are MY experiences and others did not have some of the issues I had.
As for the MIB hack, I believe there's only 1, done through an SD card, found here: https://github.com/Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._...ncredible-Bash
MIB wiki: https://github.com/Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._...---install-mib
These are MY experiences and others did not have some of the issues I had.
As for the MIB hack, I believe there's only 1, done through an SD card, found here: https://github.com/Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._...ncredible-Bash
MIB wiki: https://github.com/Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._...---install-mib
The agressive bluetooth sounds annoying enough to turn me off to both of these wireless options. I thought I read somewhere that these things go to sleep after 10 min of turning the car off?
Regarding the hack, I had originally found this: GitHub - harman-f/MHI2_US_POG11_K5186_1-MU1476-AIO: Porsche MHI2 US POG11 custom AIO FW update - it appears yours has been updated more recently so I will go with that instead. If I pay the member on the forum I will get the same exact mod or is there some extra benefit to make it worth it?
It sounds like the hack is well worth doing over the otto cast, I think I am going to cancel my order and just do the hack instead. I can probably even deal with wired android auto tbh, but I will try the wireless dongle you posted as well.
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#8
Regarding the hack, I had originally found this: GitHub - harman-f/MHI2_US_POG11_K5186_1-MU1476-AIO: Porsche MHI2 US POG11 custom AIO FW update - it appears yours has been updated more recently so I will go with that instead. If I pay the member on the forum I will get the same exact mod or is there some extra benefit to make it worth it?
You don't need to pay anyone anything. The software is free to use and its complete. If you like the hack, there's a donation link if you want to toss the developer a few bucks.
I like the hack better than the Ottocast dongle for sure. I believe what makes the AAWireless dongle less aggressive is that it uses it's own app to connect to BT and not directly to the phone itself. As I'm typing this, I think you can even turn off the app via the modes and routines on your phone so it's completely invisible.
#9
You're welcome. Yes, the USB port does go to sleep after sometime and I noticed it takes about 30 min for me... long enough to annoy me.
That link is for a specific head unit (POG11 K5186). The one in my link includes the various head units and selects the correct one in your car.. which truly makes it easy to do.
You don't need to pay anyone anything. The software is free to use and its complete. If you like the hack, there's a donation link if you want to toss the developer a few bucks.
I like the hack better than the Ottocast dongle for sure. I believe what makes the AAWireless dongle less aggressive is that it uses it's own app to connect to BT and not directly to the phone itself. As I'm typing this, I think you can even turn off the app via the modes and routines on your phone so it's completely invisible.
That link is for a specific head unit (POG11 K5186). The one in my link includes the various head units and selects the correct one in your car.. which truly makes it easy to do.
You don't need to pay anyone anything. The software is free to use and its complete. If you like the hack, there's a donation link if you want to toss the developer a few bucks.
I like the hack better than the Ottocast dongle for sure. I believe what makes the AAWireless dongle less aggressive is that it uses it's own app to connect to BT and not directly to the phone itself. As I'm typing this, I think you can even turn off the app via the modes and routines on your phone so it's completely invisible.
#10
You're welcome. Yes, the USB port does go to sleep after sometime and I noticed it takes about 30 min for me... long enough to annoy me.
That link is for a specific head unit (POG11 K5186). The one in my link includes the various head units and selects the correct one in your car.. which truly makes it easy to do.
You don't need to pay anyone anything. The software is free to use and its complete. If you like the hack, there's a donation link if you want to toss the developer a few bucks.
I like the hack better than the Ottocast dongle for sure. I believe what makes the AAWireless dongle less aggressive is that it uses it's own app to connect to BT and not directly to the phone itself. As I'm typing this, I think you can even turn off the app via the modes and routines on your phone so it's completely invisible.
That link is for a specific head unit (POG11 K5186). The one in my link includes the various head units and selects the correct one in your car.. which truly makes it easy to do.
You don't need to pay anyone anything. The software is free to use and its complete. If you like the hack, there's a donation link if you want to toss the developer a few bucks.
I like the hack better than the Ottocast dongle for sure. I believe what makes the AAWireless dongle less aggressive is that it uses it's own app to connect to BT and not directly to the phone itself. As I'm typing this, I think you can even turn off the app via the modes and routines on your phone so it's completely invisible.
#11
Thanks, I just did a dive into reading all that wiki and am going to try t he hack today. The thing is, there is a lot of stuff that isnt covered in that wiki like what all the other options do. this seems to do A LOT and doesnt really tell you which you should pick. For example I saw there is a way to change the speed setting for when android auto will play video but it says make sure you do this right in the picture but cant find any guides. Was there some guide you followed other than this wiki?
#12
Regarding the post engine shutdown whine/noise - mine does the same and the one I had prior did also. I always attributed it to some sort of fuel pump or cooling thinga-majig. But I believe it is entirely normal, nothing to sweat at all.
#13
Awesome! great to hear. Thanks!
#14
My 2019 also does this. It stops after a few minutes.
#15
What would be the easiest way to put the car on external power while I do the flashing? I have a battery tender, should I remove the plastic under the hood and connect it that way instead of connecting my battery tender clamps to the emergency fuse box connection? Is there a better way?