spdracerut

Ugh.... I hate troubleshooting electrical stuff. The fact that using the USB port to power makes it work is interesting. While the vehicle side of the harness and connector may be okay, it's possible the DSC is damaged. Perhaps the board itself inside the DSC where it gets powered by the vehicle harness. So by powering the unit by the USB, it bypasses the issue. I think it'd be worthwhile to ask for a replacement unit under warranty using these facts related to powering the unit?

IRunalot

I believe you are 100% correct!!

I think I just made some headway and I think it’s a faulty DSC module. I cut the battery power for 10 minutes to “reboot” the entire car , started the car and it drove perfectly. I even stopped the car a few times cycled the ignition, and it was fine. So, I got back home plugged in laptop to the controller, read the file and it was blank. I know by how it was driving that my latest file was installed. So, I wrote the stock Tractive file, reset the board, read, and verified the file, started to drive and its full stiff. Connect the laptop read the file, write my file, and reset board. I leave it connected and it works, I pull the cable out of the laptop and instant full stiff. I disconnect the battery and it works again, connect the laptop and it fails once the laptop is disconnected.

I even said this when I was on a call with them and I get "no way its the DSC check the entire car". I spent 1k in diagnostics charges and two weeks of my time and it looks like it's the DSC which is what I said in the first place. I even had it boxed up and ready to overnight as I expected them to say send it back. The fact it runs of laptop power and not the car tells me its the DSC..OF course it COULD be the the PASM system but that would have thrown some codes, even the dealer told me that.

IRunalot

It's the V3 controller and the map they sent with it is what I used for the base setup. The file name is 991_Standard file for Tractive_05.20.23.pdts. Every file I have loaded has been an iteration of this file.

The controller and the Tractives showed up late May so that sounds as if it should be the latest controller.

I just sent them an email stating what I have done to troubleshoot, but usually never respond to emails so lets see what happens.

Joec500

keep us updated, everything points to a faulty DSC controller.

IRunalot

I will call tomorrow and ask for a new controller, absolutely everything else has been ruled out.

I’ll keep you all updated, and thank you for all of the replies.

Tier1Terrier

I've had the DSC on my to-do list for a while now. Even though this seems like it might be an isolated incident, I am hoping you are right about the DSC and that TPC makes it right. This is a great opportunity for them to demonstrate what good customer service looks like.

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Joec500

This is a truly no compromise system and seems like an isolated situation of things not working. IMO it’s the best street/track setup. I hope you get this sorted out, def don’t sell it.

IRunalot

I agree, now that I’ve tracked down the issue I just need them to agree. The last conversation I had with them they refused to believe it was the controller.

The part that frustrates me is I knew it when I called them, I even had it out of the car in it's box ready for FedEx. Instead I'm told it's my car and/or my install, no way its the controller. Now I have had to waste dozens of hours of my time which I'm very limited on as we ll as money just to be at the same place again.

They could have just sent me a controller, I would have even paid for it. I was even ready to send them mine so they could test it. No instead it's my fault and good luck.

The entire situation has rubbed me the wrong way. The exact same thing happened to me with Bilstein and my F80. Spend thousands on the parts and install and they are full hard. The dealer calls Bilstein and copies me on the email. They go on and on about it being the install, to a point of being abusive, they do not ask a single question about my car or install. I threw them in the garbage and bought MCS and couldn't be happier. Then someone buys them from my dealer and guess what spends a YEAR fighting Bilstein for a bad product and they were in the end proven to be bad. I will never buy Bilstein ever again.



So, if I’m a little impatient and frustrated that’s where it comes from, I don’t skimp on parts and pick my installers very carefully. It always seems to be the customers fault no matter what and you have to prove your case and waste your time after spending 10K. I don't have a bunch of extra time on my hands, but it would have taken them a couple hours MAX to bench test it and rule it out. Instead I lost time and money.

Now after all this I'm supposed to hope they help me with any maps or tuning?

I own a business and when my clients have problems that I know have nothing to do with what I have done, I still spend hours or days helping them troubleshoot it. At the end of the day, I learn something new and that customer will always remember what I did for them. So I get the business side of this very well.

jakermc

I think you've done a great job troubleshooting! If it runs on USB power, any kind of USB power and the factory harness has been verified OK then I've got to believe its the DSC. Hope this works out for you!

And yes, losing your dampers can be frightening! It reminds me of a race many years ago at the old Texas World Speedway. I had adjustable Motons on my 996 and one corner failed. Getting on and off the banking was a white knuckle experience. I had to stay out to avoid a DNF and capture at least a few championship points, but I vividly remember being passed by a lower class car. LOL

IRunalot

I hope I can get it resolved today and get back to setting up the dampers and not troubleshooting.

Coming on and off the banking with a bad damper sounds like a nightmare, those are always the corners that give me the most heartburn.You have my respect on finishing a race with a bad damper! That is not an easy task.

Joec500

I have been trying to trouble shoot your issue in my mind. Are there any systems between the DSC/PASM controller and the shocks themselves? I know the DSC takes inputs from various sensors on the car, but if you can get the shocks to function with the laptop plugged in. It's clear the shocks are functioning and installed properly and everything is plugged into the car properly. Everything points to firmware or some type of internal DSC failure. I am still blown away why they can't just swap out your DSC unit with a known bench tested unit from their stock especially since you are the original purchaser and the product is clearly under warranty.

IRunalot

All I want is for them to send me another one to test, I don't think I'm asking for to much. Even take mine and bench test it, I'll overnight it on my dime. So far no response.

I'm to a point of just buying a new one and eating the cost, what choice do I have? Or go spend 20k on a new KW V5 suspension and install.

4 Point 0

Man, it sucks, I feel your pain. I hope you get it sorted.

I ran KW-CS on my M4. It was great on the track, but I hated life on the street. It was 110/180.

With tractive I have been able to run Manthey Racing spec 120/170 and it passes the wife test, at the push of a button.

If you get it sorted, you will forget the pain and enjoy one of the few non compromise setups…….when it is working properly.

IRunalot

I'm with right there with you, I ran MCS on my f80 120/105 with the rear being a true coilover not the divorced spring factory setup. It would have been around 120/175 with the different motion ratio of the rear inner spring. So very close to what you ran.

Yeah, it was way too stiff for city driving! Which is why I went with the DSC, best of both worlds which I need. I’ll more than likely go up in rates but keep the .7 rear spring ratios that I have now. Probably 90/130 or 100/140. I need to track it with the specs provided to get decent feel for it first then see where I want to go. I was super conservative with the rates after the M3 stiffness.

Tom reached out to me, and I just sent the DSC back to him for testing. I have the stock controller plugged in now and just went for a test drive and all is good. No full stiff issue, yet but let’s see how she drives over the week and if the issue returns with the stock PASM controller.

I'm just hoping it’s not one of these works for them not for me issues. Not knocking DSC but it seems to be my luck with suspensions the past few years. Fingers crossed 😊 I know they make a good product but I have been though hell on suspensions as it took 3 suspensions to get the M3 right. Stock, BMW-HAS, Bilstein B16ds, then finally MCS.That was not cheap lol

4 Point 0

Let me save everyone some money.

if your car sees the track, you want minimum 100 up front.

The only cars that should be less than 100 are street only.

100/150 is a great all round setup. I ran that for a few years.

Stock GTS was 33/108 that 1:3.
i figured 75/150 being 1:2 would be much better and still have the GT3 (45/120 - 75 split.)

Whilst it was street comfy, the front end collapsed at the track. Stiffer anti-Sway bars made it worse and I lost drive coming out if corners

I put 100 up front and it was hello GT Performance.

You track, so conservative start for you that you would enjoy would be 100/150. If you want to save money and do rear once, do 100/170. Then you inly need change the front and you are there.

120/170 is perfect for me. I see guys with tractive on GT3 go 130/200. But you guys have much smoother tracks. Ours are bumpy goat tracks, and i like to drive on the street as well. So 120/170 is where i will stay with this beast.