911T4ME

I'm about to install Spiegler SS braided brake hoses on my 911T. Previously I've installed caliper and brake line studs and Endless ME20 brake pads. I noticed during the initial caliper removals for the caliper studs that I had to move the calipers enough that the hard brake lines seemed to be bending and then straightening up on reinstalling. These should fix that problem. My question is there anything required during this swap from hard brake lines to flexible hoses that I should be aware of? I've bought a liter of Castrol SRF for upcoming track work. Spiegler also provides rubber caps to limit brake fluid loss when removing hard lines. TIA

F355bob

I have the same lines and Girodisc rotors I am installing this week. The lines should be a straight swap from the stock lines. Nothing special needs to be done.

jakermc

Biggest tip: There is a plastic harness holding the lines that bolts to the hub. 10mm if I recall correctly. Unbolt that and let it move freely, this will dramatically improve accessibility to everything.

Second tip: Unbolt the connection that is furthest from the caliper first. Then put the rubber cap on that open hard line coming from the ABS module. Then you can work on the other lines without making a mess.

Lastly, be VERY careful when screwing the new soft lines into the existing hard line. If it's not lined up perfectly, it is very easy to cross thread that line. If you feel any resistance at all, stop and try again.

9914s

You might need more brake fluid to completely flush the system.

Ark20

Facts!!

AdamSanta85

I used ~750ml when I did my lines

911T4ME

Thanks for the feedback. I bought a liter of Castrol SRF. Is there any recommended procedure for flushing the ABS system?

Zylinderkopfdichtung

EDIT: This is for the Spiegler kit intended for AP Racing, etc. aftermarket brakes. I’ll leave it here for anyone else searching in the future.

Use the adjustment tool that the lines come with!

The process below works best. This describes the rear, but the front is similar enough:

1) Remove factory soft lines and cap the hard line with the rubber stopper included in the kit.
2) Place the hard line end of the Spiegler line in the keyed bracket and hold it in place—do not completely install that end.
3) Move the caliper end of the Spiegler line into position and try to place it flush against the banjo bolt hole. It’s probably not going to align well on the first try. Note which direction it needs to twist to be flush.
4) Use the adjusting tool to twist the banjo bolt end of the Spiegler line. I like to place the plastic block around the line then hold it with vice grips.
5) Repeat steps 2-5 until the banjo bolt end sits flush against the caliper without twisting the line itself.

By the time you’re done adjusting, the brake line should be able to sit loosely in the bracket and loosely (not even hand tight—leave a gap) bolted to the caliper, and neither end of the line shows any indication of twisting or buckling in its position.

Note: This is especially important in cars with RAS. At full deflection the brake lines gets very close to the barrel of the wheel. If they’re not adjusted as describes they can contact the wheel.

Zylinderkopfdichtung

I’ve used the iCarsoft POR v3.0 to flush the ABS with great results. The sequence it walks you through is different than the RR>LR>RF>LF typical for other cars, but it has produced a rock hard pedal every time.

F355bob

I don't think there is a banjo bolt in the Spiegler kit. it looks like the line just threads into the caliper

Zylinderkopfdichtung

D’oh, you are correct. I’ve updated the post above.

911T4ME

Thanks for this post and the above post (even though I don't have banjo bolts)

jakermc

Do NOT use the SRF if you flush the ABS. Done correctly you will go through a massive amount of fluid and the Castrol will be wasted. 1 liter is good for a caliper flush. If you also do ABS, use a cheaper DOT 4 fluid and then come back after and flush again to put the SRF in. Otherwise you will need several more liters of SRF. I used LiquiMoly Race fluid when I did my ABS. When it comes time for its next bleed, I'll introduce SRF again. But in the mean time, the fluid is dry and will survive the track just fine. The SRF advantage really kicks in as fluid ages since its wet boiling point is so much higher than the others. But most high quality race fluids will behave the same when new as their dry boiling points are all acceptably high.